So who eles is already having belt problems
- Thread starter Going West
- Start date
I
Oh. Why is it coming loose?
A
yeah my jackshaft tab wasnt broke, it was just loose from cat.
-Aksnopro
-Aksnopro
It has to be assemble just right, if not it would tighten up then fall into place and be loose, its in this thread 10 pages ago or something.
The nut or do you mean the bolt in the chaincase on the jackshaft. I don't no nut!!!
A
When you torque the jackshaft chaincase nut it commonly stops where no tab can be bent over. So at cat they were backing it off till they could bend a tab in. (my guess)
Me i tightened it till a tab would bend. Spun the clutch it still felt free and slapped it all back togather.
You have to have a special socket for the jackshaft nut.
-Aksnopro
Me i tightened it till a tab would bend. Spun the clutch it still felt free and slapped it all back togather.
You have to have a special socket for the jackshaft nut.
-Aksnopro
i see no nut in diagram so wth are you guys talkin about. There is no nut a bolt??????????
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look at #9
I GOT NO ISSUES SO leavin it alone. Looks like an adapter to me held on by a bolt
I also think some of the problems guys are having is incorrect clutching for their elevation
its a NUT that threads onto jack shaft
#9 threads onto #22 pulls on shaft #22 and preloads bearings, thats what I have gathered anyway
Bolt #15 threads into #22 and holds on sproket #13
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These are roller bearings no preload !
What's this special socket look like? Can I get something else that will work?
I have an entire chaincase off right now and putting a new one on. Can't get the jackshaft to go all the way through the bearing/lock nut. Not sure why it's binding up when I can get the other cracked one on. Maybe a bit of heat and try to expand the lock nut sleave???
I have an entire chaincase off right now and putting a new one on. Can't get the jackshaft to go all the way through the bearing/lock nut. Not sure why it's binding up when I can get the other cracked one on. Maybe a bit of heat and try to expand the lock nut sleave???
A
Looks like a huge socket with 4 tabs on the end similar to an old ford bearing socket the 4 tabs go into the nut and spin it to 55ft pounds then you bend the tab into whichever open tab you can
Its right behind the gear!
Its right behind the gear!
Got it. I had to spin the nut all the way free and tap the taper sleave loose from the bearing to slide the inner case back on the jackshaft.
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so is it a fact the cat alignment bar is off? what was the outcome of this? My 2012 turbo secondary had two 60tho washers behind it and according to cat alignment bar needed to take one out...still about 30tho from iner sheave on primary.
T
If you want to fix the driven clutch, then float the driven clutch! They way you do this is first remove the clutch from the machine. Then with a piece of all thread and to nuts with washers, snug the two nuts together and tighten the helix so that you can heat the four screws on the back side of the driven clutch. Then remove the screws and remove the back sheave from the clutch. Note: The washer on the back side can not be any larger than the shaft! With the sheave removed from the clutch, then install three .030 washers on the shaft. This will set your belt deflection for a new belt. These washers are the same washer that were used on the three tower Arctic Cat driven clutches that were used to set the belt deflection on those clutches. Reassemble the driven clutch sheave with thread lock compound on the screws. Now remove one of the washer that are behind the driven clutch that fit between the bearing and the clutch. Now install your newly shimmed driven clutch. Find a washer that will barely fit on the inside of the clutch near the spline area then find there or four washers that are smaller than the splines on the shaft. Get an 8mm bolt and lock washer. The bolt needs to be about one inch long. Now tighten the bolt with bolt, lock washer, one larger washer and the three or four smaller washers. Now you should be able to move the clutch in and out about .060 to .100 thousands of an inch. This will give you a much better set up than what the factory has done. This also makes the belt much easier to change. All you do is push on the driven clutch helix with your foot and push the belt into the clutch. With the belt loose, it is easy to remove and when you want to install a new belt, all you have to do is snug the belt over the two sheaves of the driven clutch as you open the clutch with your foot. Hope this helps.
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