Coolant Resovoir?
- Thread starter nosajlleb
- Start date
Dang, looks like selling this thing is gonna be hard to do before the Prolite comes in.
Popped my black glued tank this weekend...:brick:
Still plenty of riding left-
Pretty bad when I have to break out the 2010 Dragon to fininsh the season-- at least it has the "fix it Kit" ........
So what is up with this replacement unit?? better- See through- one peice????
S/C
Still plenty of riding left-
Pretty bad when I have to break out the 2010 Dragon to fininsh the season-- at least it has the "fix it Kit" ........
So what is up with this replacement unit?? better- See through- one peice????
S/C
Just talked to my dealer and the original shipping date has started to be pushed back. Now showing a week later than what was originally stated. Was noticing some of the yammi pics in the American snow rag showed the yammi with an aluminum tank and a plastic reservoir above primary that can be filled with hood on. The aluminum tank looks like a great replacement to what the 1100Ts' have.
I
An aluminum tank would be really nice. A plastic tank really should be fine as well, but it can't have a seam like it does now. I imagine that they can't move the oil/air seperator, and because the two are connected they need a seam, and thus they can't use plastic. Although I don't know what is stopping them from having two separate tanks that are fasteneed together
More than anything what I'd like is a coolant recirculation pump for 3 minutes after I shut down...
More than anything what I'd like is a coolant recirculation pump for 3 minutes after I shut down...
No one knows if they changed anything but the part# ?
Just a thought
Throwing this idea out to the masses: Why not run a different coolant? Bear with me, there is a story...
Back in 2004, I was looking for ideas to shave weight off of my (cough, cough) ski-doo rev 159. The cooler was huge, and perhaps overkill for the chassis. I cut the cooler to half it's original size, and started using Evans NPG+ coolant. Sled never ran hot, and I kept that machine for three seasons. It protects down to -40F, and doesn't boil until 375F, and unlike regular coolant, it doesn't expand nearly as much when heated. I've been fortunate enough to not split my tank, but it is insulated, my exhaust is fully wrapped, and I'm using Cat's vented side panels (mine is a BC250 kit). One could hear the coolant boil from the turbo when stopped, and I topped up after every trip, as it would push coolant from the tank overflow periodically. I'm open to suggestions / comments, but my plan for the upcoming season is to switch both sleds over to Evans and run a lower pressure cap to get rid of some pressure, and prevent the boil from the turbocharger. I'm not affiliated with then or selling anything, but it might be worth a look - I know I'm going to try it...
Throwing this idea out to the masses: Why not run a different coolant? Bear with me, there is a story...
Back in 2004, I was looking for ideas to shave weight off of my (cough, cough) ski-doo rev 159. The cooler was huge, and perhaps overkill for the chassis. I cut the cooler to half it's original size, and started using Evans NPG+ coolant. Sled never ran hot, and I kept that machine for three seasons. It protects down to -40F, and doesn't boil until 375F, and unlike regular coolant, it doesn't expand nearly as much when heated. I've been fortunate enough to not split my tank, but it is insulated, my exhaust is fully wrapped, and I'm using Cat's vented side panels (mine is a BC250 kit). One could hear the coolant boil from the turbo when stopped, and I topped up after every trip, as it would push coolant from the tank overflow periodically. I'm open to suggestions / comments, but my plan for the upcoming season is to switch both sleds over to Evans and run a lower pressure cap to get rid of some pressure, and prevent the boil from the turbocharger. I'm not affiliated with then or selling anything, but it might be worth a look - I know I'm going to try it...
T
For what it is worth. . . . . I have not had any coolant push out on mine. Can't remember what I put back in it when I did the turbo(bc250). I know i did add water wetter to it though. But also turns out mine is not a belt eater either. So i am lucky I guess. Just had an issue with a chain and some broken rollers in the secondary. I feel the chain issue is likely still caused from the movement of jackshaft caused by it being linked to a 150 lb weight that floats around on super soft mounts.
I also took great great care to burp the sled when I finished the project. Likely was overkill but may be why I don't have issues with coolant? Not sure I guess. But I am definately worried about the tank now.
Can I weld the seam with it in the sled? I don't really want to drain the coolant down.
the push may be self induced...
Also lucky mine wasn't a belt burner, but I scrapped the chaincase for a C3 drive as my chain was junk after 500 miles. Like yourself, I worry about the coolant tank cutting my ride short. I haven't welded mine yet, but I suspect it would be damn near impossible to do with it on the sled, other then the outside seam - JustBoostIt would know for sure, as he's fixed a bunch of them...
My only thought about replacing coolant was to eliminate localized boiling, and reduce pressure on a slightly "flawed" system - reducing the system pressure by 8 psi may enhance longevity
I took my time ensuring the cooling system was bled properly - I suspect I get the occasional push as I tend to overfill the bottle (mainly peace of mind as I can't check the level on the POS design without removing the hood). The level has never dropped below a certain point, and I generally ride 5 days in a row before checking again...
Also lucky mine wasn't a belt burner, but I scrapped the chaincase for a C3 drive as my chain was junk after 500 miles. Like yourself, I worry about the coolant tank cutting my ride short. I haven't welded mine yet, but I suspect it would be damn near impossible to do with it on the sled, other then the outside seam - JustBoostIt would know for sure, as he's fixed a bunch of them...
My only thought about replacing coolant was to eliminate localized boiling, and reduce pressure on a slightly "flawed" system - reducing the system pressure by 8 psi may enhance longevity
T
Sounds like a sold Idea --lower pressure with a higherr boiling point.
Also can we check with the local dealer to see if a new tank is going to be a replacement like the new chain and gears comming..
I was going to the C3 belt system but the new K mod suspension this summer ate that $$ Idea so another chain year.. I hve no belt eater also but running all Jims stuff but stayed with the 215 flash..... for last year
S/C
Also can we check with the local dealer to see if a new tank is going to be a replacement like the new chain and gears comming..
I was going to the C3 belt system but the new K mod suspension this summer ate that $$ Idea so another chain year.. I hve no belt eater also but running all Jims stuff but stayed with the 215 flash..... for last year
S/C
You only get a new tank if you split yours. BTW the new tank is a direct copy of the original so it will split again. I just got a new tank installed and cost me $50 thru cat care. I think olefarts idea would be worth a try, Cat should give us the frogskinz vents that go on the hood wing panels that are right above the turbo area. There's so much heat up front in these sleds they need multiple chimneys.
I have them vents- and are well worth the money spent on them.
Along with side panels it does move a ton of heat ottta there
:laser:
Along with side panels it does move a ton of heat ottta there
:laser:
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I
The higher temp coolant would be promising. The tank is going to be the temp of the coolant or the steam in the system, no matter what type of venting (unless it is actually the pipe or turbo causing the tank to split). If the coolant doesn't boil you won't have searing bubbles of 250+ degree coolant steam in the tank. The coolant will heat up and circulate out of turbo hopefully like oil in a transformer with engine off. By the time it reaches the tank, it will probably be a much more reasonable temp. All a guess though, and a one piece tank that is bolted instead of integrated with the oil/air seperator would make it a mute point ...
