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Ski-Doo 2017 Rev G4 Belt Issues Read This!

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snoblind04

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Nov 29, 2007
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Western Wyoming
From what I hear just adding weight gets rid of the heat and corrects RPM as it did with the one I described.

I've added as much weight as I can and still have hot clutches, just blew my 3rd belt in 700 miles, this one only lasted 150 miles and the snow is fairly set up so it should not be working it very hard.
 

Rotax_Kid

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Nov 29, 2007
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Regina, SK
Learning the Pdrive has been very interesting. It responds so different in my experience than the TRA did.

I weigh about 205 without gear. Sled is a 154 x 2.5.

At 1600ft I've had the machine run well at 8000-8050 rpm with 23.5-24g of pivot weight using the OEM 38mm bolt and goodwin weights. Pulls hard but I believe theres something left on the table with the ramp profile. Running stock gears with the stock 40 deg helix but a black spring.

Riding last 2 days at 6000-7000'. Started with the same setup but only about 20g of pivot weight. Snow is fairly setup. Tested in this and some trail at elevation. Machine over reved to close to 8300. Added some weight to 23g and all is happy again. Machine is back to 8000 rpm. Very odd to only drop a gram and go up 5000' while maintaining RPM. Both setups at low and high elevation on clicker 3.

Belt is 200 miles old and has that nice green tinge to it.

Some observations...

Apparent pivot weight is merely trim weight. Ramp weight or spring force is proving to be key tuning variables similar to a P85 or similar.

Machine needs gears...can easily pull another tooth perhaps 2. I keep waiting to see what belt drive options are out there before I spend money on gears but not much going on there yet.

If you do plan to change pivot weight in the field bring a proper allen key. I've noticed after some time the pivot bolts get quite tight and the extra leverage of a proper allen key is really helpful.

Soon as I get back home moving into some helix changes to see how that may respond.

Happy with machine overall. Only beefs seem to be that the T-motion is exaggerated with G4 design and I'm already loosing paint on my chaincase cover.
 

psychosledder73

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Dec 9, 2007
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Fernie BC
They did the same thing with their xmr quads too little
Weight and lots of clutch slippage. The French are a little
Lost on flyweight clutches:face-icon-small-con
 
C

cbouton

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Jan 6, 2013
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Soldotna, AK
Lost my first belt today @ 80 miles on the sled. At 20 miles removed all sound barrier under hood and in clutch guard, made opening in guard a little larger at the back bottom. Hope when I get the sea level kit installed they last longer then that. Was riding at 1800ft clicker 1 if I mashed it it would hit 8250 I've been diligent at restricting my full throttle to keep rpms at around 7900 (Sea level kits been on back order)
 
P
Nov 28, 2007
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Yukon Canada
Back after a ride with the sea level spring stock high elevation setup besides that. Beautiful engagement at 3300 rpm performance is identical to stock set up with extra weight with nicer slow speed handling and less track spin on engagement at slow speed in the trees. We had 2 identical sleds same track experimented with weights and primary spring.Both runs 8000 rpm down low and cold -20C on clicker one. Besides slight RPM changes there seems to be very little effect by pin weight or primary spring.
For now I have it running happy ,I usually never run any lower or much colder.
But there is no doubt there is some left on the table.
The real shift is in the Helix and clutch weight profile. this thing could really do with some more tip weight.



Moderator note: Mountainhorse

I've closed this thread as it as there are two threads on the same topic...

I've left the other thread open for continued discussion in the same spot.

CLICKABLE LINK for the the other belt thread to continue this great discussion.

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4044803








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