• Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

turbo install, anything else while i'm in there?

snowracer21

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 10, 2012
308
208
43
36
I didn't post this in the turbo section, because it's more AXYS specific, rather than boost specific.
Have a 2017 Rmk Pro 800 155", 0 miles. Have it stripped down partially to install my Silber turbo setup (non-intercooled).

While I have easy access to everything, is there anything else I should do while I'm in here? Did they fix the relays in 2017? My 2016 relay went to **** from corrosion...should I hit the connections with some dielectric grease and shrink wrap them?

Thinking of going with some stiffer engine mounts, or maybe SLP's torque arm, to keep this engine in place, as I tend to be tough on equipment.

Any other suggestions?
 

AKFULLTHROTTLE

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 20, 2009
1,986
1,145
113
Alaska
You really should have no issues. Gap your plugs to a tight .020. A 155 will be on its tail a lot on the stock rear bumper will not protect the tunnel. A B&M Fab rear bumper will protect you tunnel during every track stand.

Keep the track TIGHT, even then at some point it will slip and then its hard to go back from there. Clip the non clipped windows to aid in this. But since it has zero miles the track will stretch so you may need to check on it while out riding for first few times and then still keep checking before every ride.
 

Wheel House Motorsports

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 27, 2007
29,933
5,968
113
34
SW MT
SLP torque arm.

The axys doesn't have a great alignment system to it and when you add boost it pulls the motor so far back that your clutching is inconsistent and generates a lot of heat. The torque arm helps keep it all in line and transfering power ideally.
 

snowracer21

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 10, 2012
308
208
43
36
Thanks for the suggestions everyone. Did Polaris seal the relays better for 2017?
 

AKFULLTHROTTLE

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 20, 2009
1,986
1,145
113
Alaska
I am not sure on that one, I also have not had a single issue on my 16 or seen any as well around me. With that said we do not haul sleds on covered. Mine are in the enclosed or on a sled deck with a cover.
 
S
Oct 4, 2016
695
209
43
north pole alaska
I did do a handful of things when I put the turbo on... iceage rail stiffeners - avid drivers - slp toque arm - tether - fully clipped track - br9 eya plugs {not the es} gaped as stated above - full slp vent kit {intake breather and cowling heat eliminating kit} - striped all foam off the panels for better cooling {I did heat tape a few spots that were close to the pipe/turbo} - heat taped the lines that were talked about above - indy dans low elevation turbo kit {as stated above} -sealed the back of all relay plugs with black form-a-gasket and relay to plug with die-electric grease tanking care not to get any on the connectors! - the rest was just for looks\comfort sled wrap - under seat bag - orange led lights - 1 in off set ZRP spindles... oO0 and a driven clutch bearing and washer that ZRP sell's to prevent spring bind and promote quicker back shifting... probably missed something but that's the majority of it! lots of what I did was not necessary but if I did it again.... I would do it all again!!! I regret nothing I got { well I cheeped out on the iceage rail stiffeners I do wish I would have just bought the iceage rails that are stronger than stock but a@Aa the stiffeners are a fair product too} . lots of what I did was to try to ensure a long and trouble free sled that provides to much HP and not enough break downs to enjoy the scenery you get to see when your getting towed out!!! to each his own... just smack that turbo on and ride or try to do some preventive maintenance either way is up to you!!!! have a good year we have ben riding in alaska for 3 or 4 weeks now!!! oO0 ThE SnOw <!-- / message -->
<!-- controls -->
progress.gif
 
A
Jan 6, 2017
31
20
8
Alaska
I would absolutely dialectric grease all the connectors and relays. Gives you peace of mind and it only take 15 minutes for preventative maintenance item that could save you a lot of heartache.
 

snowracer21

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 10, 2012
308
208
43
36
All,

I've always ran a tether, and just installed a new one on my '17...use to race Snocross, so riding without one seems weird.

I'm waiting on my ECU, so I've just been doing busy work, removed all the stock foam from panels and nose cone..damn, that stuff is a PITA to scrape off, even using a heat gun and Goof-Off.

I'm worried about the Silber kit using the stock airvents. I removed the foam as directed, but I'm wondering if that will be enough airflow? also, should I be worried about the heat from the exhaust side of the turbo, in relation do the QD belt system?


I'll be doing a rear bumper and probably rail braces, as I enjoy sending it from time to time (see photo below)

attachment.php
 
S
Oct 4, 2016
695
209
43
north pole alaska
I hade the same concern about venting the heat so I did not wait and find out if it was needed I just vented with the slp kit!


as for the die-electric grease don't put it on the connectors/pins it is not a conductor just a sealant to keep $h!t out {mainly water} their is a lot of talk of it in many posts and widely agreed upon that it is not made to conduct electricity as a matter of fact it does the opposite, not to say the pins wont scrape and touch but not made to put on the pins it can cause problems!!! avoid them and just try to fill the void in-between the plug housing and the relay..... or so I've ben told by people smarter than me :D
 

ewanaburner

Active member
Lifetime Membership
Feb 21, 2002
126
34
28
west central MN
dielectric grease

dielectric grease is supposed to be applied to the pins
it transfers the heat out of the connection that is its
main purpose moisture is its secondary job
 

Wheel House Motorsports

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 27, 2007
29,933
5,968
113
34
SW MT
The extra intake venting works nice when its over the hood deep since we definately pushing the limits of the stock vent flow, especially when they are covered in POW.

Also generally extra venting is good IMO, stock sleds run to hot as is and add the extra power means more heat.
 
S
Oct 4, 2016
695
209
43
north pole alaska
<table width="100%" align="center" class="tborder forum-table" id="post4045232" style="table-layout: fixed;"><tbody><tr><td style="padding: 0px;"><table width="100%" class="profile-header" style="table-layout: fixed;"><tbody><tr><td class="profile-info" valign="top"><table width="100%"><tbody><tr><td class="pr-45">LoudHandle
user_online.gif
<script type="text/javascript"> vbmenu_register("postmenu_4045232", true); </script>
<!--ADDED BY BRIAN FOR VB STATUS--> Currently: Wrapping up my current builds, so I can start building my M-AXYS
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Valdez, AK
<!--END ADDED BY BRIAN FOR VB STATUS-->
Age: 51
</td><td> Posts: 3,691
Thanks: 369
Thanked 1,735 Times in 1,058 Posts
Rep Power: 21474846
reputation_pos.gif
reputation_pos.gif
reputation_pos.gif
reputation_pos.gif
reputation_pos.gif
reputation_highpos.gif
reputation_highpos.gif
reputation_highpos.gif
reputation_highpos.gif
reputation_highpos.gif
reputation_highpos.gif


</td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table><!-- / user info --> </td></tr><tr><td class="alt1" id="td1"><!-- HEAVILY MODIFIED BY BRIAN FOR PAID/FREE THING --> <!-- Forum IDs are the list of restricted forums --> <!-- LOCKED FORUMS BRIAN locked_forums --> <!-- message, attachments, sig --> <!-- icon and title -->
icon1.gif
Di-electric grease is Non-Conductive, therefore an Insulator!
<hr size="1"><!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message --> Quote:
<table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="10"><tbody><tr><td class="alt2" style="border: 1px inset currentColor; border-image: none;"> Originally Posted by bailer
I always just fill the female portion with a squeeze. I have used it on automotive and ag equip for 20yrs and never have had any trouble doing this and it has definitely solved and prevented many problems!

https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/.../tds/81150.pdf

</td></tr></tbody></table>

I thought it prudent to throw this statement out there; Di-electric grease is Non-Conductive, therefore an Insulator!
Using it as described above is okay on some types of connectors that have enough memory to retain their shape and push / scrape the grease out of the way where they actually are designed to contact.

If not? You essentially are floating the connector and making the issue you are attempting to fix worse. TPS connector being one prime example.

All connectors are not created equal and one should use some thought and good judgement as to where Di-electric grease is indeed suitable.
<!-- / message --> <!-- sig --> __________________
ALASKA
picture.php
just 1 quick post that was easy to find. if you read
paperclip.gif
BULLSH** POLARIS (ELECTRIC RELAYS IN HARNESS GO BAD FROM WATER INTRUSION) (
multipage.gif
1 2 3 ... Last Page) its a good place to start but lots more info on that subject if you just go looking..... not to say ewanaburner is wong {pun intended :D theirs only 1 wong:D}
</td></tr></tbody></table>
 
Premium Features