Motor Mounts causing low RPM in Axys Chassis

Indy_500 · Oct 11, 2017

goridedoo said:
I realize checking alignment is probably something that should be done on any sled but why would it change without loosening the front mag side mount when swapping mounts out? Variations/inconsistencies in new mounts? I swapped mine and was still within spec.

x2 not to mention the amount these are out when the motor mounts are actually clapped out, I don't think the manufacturing tolerances on the new inserts are going to be very far off of what the old ones were, and as long as it was close from the factory, I don't see a reason to worry about it if you change them one by one as you are FAR BETTER off than when you started. And this is coming from a machinist by trade who can talk numbers until your ears bleed. Snowmobiles are not precise machines. Get those new inserts in there and run er :rockon:

Murph · Oct 12, 2017

goridedoo said:
I realize checking alignment is probably something that should be done on any sled but why would it change without loosening the front mag side mount when swapping mounts out? Variations/inconsistencies in new mounts? I swapped mine and was still within spec.

The inserts are not precision pieces of rubber, BUT most people need to ask themselves, "when was the last time I checked my clutch alignment?". The fixed motor mounts that the rubber isolators ride in can shift from normal riding impacts.

When someone is in the process of swapping out motor mount isolator rubbers and the torque arm rubber, they should just take the 5 minutes to check alignment. Your belt will thank you for the attention to detail...

LoudHandle · Oct 12, 2017

Off Topic, but CNC Machine Operators are not Machinists

Off Topic, but at only 22 (years of age) you hardly have enough experience to beat your chest and call yourself a machinist. Furthermore, if all you run is CNC stuff then you are a machine operator not a machinist, as your only real function is to check coolant, keep the auto feed hopper full, empty the chip conveyor when necessary, push the green button at the start of your shift and the red button at the end.

Most CNC Machine Operators can not comprehend nor run a manual machine to save their azz, much less make an accurate part.

Indy_500 said:
x2 not to mention the amount these are out when the motor mounts are actually clapped out, I don't think the manufacturing tolerances on the new inserts are going to be very far off of what the old ones were, and as long as it was close from the factory, I don't see a reason to worry about it if you change them one by one as you are FAR BETTER off than when you started. And this is coming from a machinist by trade who can talk numbers until your ears bleed. Snowmobiles are not precise machines. Get those new inserts in there and run er :rockon:

Indy_500 · Oct 13, 2017

LoudHandle said:
Off Topic, but at only 22 (years of age) you hardly have enough experience to beat your chest and call yourself a machinist. Furthermore, if all you run is CNC stuff then you are a machine operator not a machinist, as your only real function is to check coolant, keep the auto feed hopper full, empty the chip conveyor when necessary, push the green button at the start of your shift and the red button at the end.

Most CNC Machine Operators can not comprehend nor run a manual machine to save their azz, much less make an accurate part.

If youd like to come do my job running 4 and 5 axis lathes and run shafts for GE oil and gas be my guest. Holding more than a dozen turns within .0005, cutting a taper where the .010 standoff tolerance to the taper gauge trigs out to a .0002 tolerance in diameter, and having an entire 100" shaft run within .00005-.0002 runout. Its been a long time since ive had a job order with a quantity larger than one nonetheless been 3.5 years since i sent a part to a dumpster. So if you wanna keep on with the age discrimination, go ahead! Thats not going to change the fact a rubber mounted motor that moves A LOT in a chassis under load is going to move if at all when replacing sacked out motor mounts one by one. I still believe its a good idea to check clutch alignment after install, but i don't think its fair to word it so guys who dont have access to an alignment tool start losing sleep over it...

xmk1080 · Oct 13, 2017

Indy_500 said:
If youd like to come do my job running 4 and 5 axis lathes and run shafts for GE oil and gas be my guest. Holding more than a dozen turns within .0005, cutting a taper where the .010 standoff tolerance to the taper gauge trigs out to a .0002 tolerance in diameter, and having an entire 100" shaft run within .00005-.0002 runout. Its been a long time since ive had a job order with a quantity larger than one nonetheless been 3.5 years since i sent a part to a dumpster. So if you wanna keep on with the age discrimination, go ahead! Thats not going to change the fact a rubber mounted motor that moves A LOT in a chassis under load is going to move if at all when replacing sacked out motor mounts one by one. I still believe its a good idea to check clutch alignment after install, but i don't think its fair to word it so guys who dont have access to an alignment tool start losing sleep over it...

You need to check engine alignment period!

goridedoo · Oct 13, 2017

xmk1080 said:
You need to check engine alignment period!

I think you meant to say you should :face-icon-small-hap

d8grandpa · Oct 13, 2017

On the topic of alignment, what tool are you guys using on the Axys, and are you following the specs outlined in the Axys service manual?

Murph · Oct 13, 2017

d8grandpa said:
On the topic of alignment, what tool are you guys using on the Axys, and are you following the specs outlined in the Axys service manual?

I bought the Polaris one. Not cheap, but neither are $200 belts.

goridedoo · Oct 13, 2017

d8grandpa said:
On the topic of alignment, what tool are you guys using on the Axys, and are you following the specs outlined in the Axys service manual?

I used the Axis CNC one, $70 I believe.

Sage Crusher · Oct 16, 2017

d8grandpa said:
On the topic of alignment, what tool are you guys using on the Axys, and are you following the specs outlined in the Axys service manual?

Here is a good tool and not to bad when checked against the expensive Polaris tool !

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Axy...ash=item2cb4c13659:g:lo0AAOSwal5YEmvM&vxp=mtr

d8grandpa · Oct 16, 2017

Sage Crusher said:
Here is a good tool and not to bad when checked against the expensive Polaris tool !

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Axy...ash=item2cb4c13659:g:lo0AAOSwal5YEmvM&vxp=mtr

This is the one i bought last year, I have used the SLP ones in my pro and IQ chassis but they didn’t make one for the Axys.
I was going to use the reference numbers that they have stamp on the bar. Just haven’t put any miles on yet to see how thats going to work on belts.

dude · Oct 23, 2017

I'm not a mechanic so feel free to correct me on this.... Here are some photos for help with replacing the torque limiter part.
The photo with the arrows shows the limiter, and the arm. It sits behind the secondary clutch. Take out the two bolts holding the arm in place (arrows in the photo point to the bolt locations) some heat helped get the bolts loose. Remove the torque arm. Then remove the torque limiter in the other photo (#13 circled) two bolts connect #13 to the Motor. Heat helps with those too. #13 is the part that gets replaced. It has a rubber part to it which is what sacks out over time. The part # is 3022281 Cost like $25.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sage Crusher · Oct 23, 2017

dude said:
Remove the torque arm. Then remove the torque limiter in the other photo (#13 circled) two bolts connect #13 to the Motor. Heat helps with those too. #13 is the part that gets replaced. It has a rubber part to it which is what sacks out over time. The part # is 3022712 Cost like $25.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Correct me if I am wrong but........

LIMITER, TORQUE, ENGINE ( item 13)
Polaris
item: 3022281 $26.23

3022712- Is the ; MOUNT, ENGINE, PTO, FRONT

nosman4 · Oct 24, 2017

You are correct sagecrusher, the part number posted appears to be incorrect. The one you posted is the correct part number.
Ian

goforbroke · Oct 24, 2017

I have a 2016 with just over 1000 miles. I thought I would change these out as some extreme wear shown in this thread. I found mine to be in excellent condition and pretty sure I just wasted $70 and a few hours (First time and turbo made it tough to get mag side done). Here is a picture of a new one next to a used one. Good luck guessing which is which. Plus it is a pain to remove drive clutch.

LoudHandle · Oct 24, 2017

goforbroke said:
I have a 2016 with just over 1000 miles. I thought I would change these out as some extreme wear shown in this thread. I found mine to be in excellent condition and pretty sure I just wasted $70 and a few hours (First time and turbo made it tough to get mag side done). Here is a picture of a new one next to a used one. Good luck guessing which is which. Plus it is a pain to remove drive clutch.

The one on the left is new. The right one has visible distortion on the rubber fingers, especially visible from 5 to 11 O'clock (which would be the bottom and rear when they were installed [2-8 O'clock]) It may not look like much but it will have had a detrimental effect on performance. Ideally the actual motor mounts should be a harder durometer, these snubbers are a bandaid carried over from the PRO Ride chassis.

justinkredible56 · Oct 25, 2017

Has anyone tried to get this covered under warranty? Or is it considered a “wear” item?

I’m sure it’s easy enough to replace them myself but sometimes I feel like I need to bring issues like these to the attention of the manufacturer and the only way to do that is by hitting them in the wallet.

It’d be worth the extra hassle (and paying the $50 deductible) to haul it to the dealer in hopes of Polaris coming out with a better rubber mount for future customers.

eyefish123 · Oct 25, 2017

While I do agree that these should probably be replaced under warranty since we are buying $13,000 sleds, these are so easy to change that it isn't worth the effort to load up and haul sled to dealer. The hardest part is getting the clutch off and lifting the stock can out of the way. I replaced the isolators and torque limiter on my 2017 and I am pretty sure I could now do it in under 30 minutes. Very easy. Have a good winter everyone.

Sage Crusher · Oct 28, 2017

Close up on the MAG

For anyone on the fence on changing the motor mounts- do yourself a favor and pull the rear Mag mount- it appears that this is the one most subjected to deterioration, it will open your eyes to change them all - For the cost and ease of doing this, it's a no brainer....

Of the ones I have pulled off sleds, this is the worse by far.
Sled showed ZERO signs of low RPM-and had been running spot on all last year-

This is on a 2016 Axys with 1200 miles...:face-icon-small-dis

LoudHandle · Oct 28, 2017

Sage Crusher said:
For anyone on the fence on changing the motor mounts- do yourself a favor and pull the rear Mag mount- it appears that this is the one most subjected to deterioration, it will open your eyes to change them all - For the cost and ease of doing this, it's a no brainer....

Of the ones I have pulled off sleds, this is the worse by far.
Sled showed ZERO signs of low RPM-and had been running spot on all last year-

This is on a 2016 Axys with 1200 miles...:face-icon-small-dis

View attachment 287256

Assuming the PRO Ride Chassis Inserts are the same functional dimensions? And assuming that what I read is correct about the PRO Ride inserts being a slightly harder durometer? I would think that a substitution to the PRO Ride inserts would be beneficial to keeping the engine lined up correctly longer? At least on that side / corner.

Motor Mounts causing low RPM in Axys Chassis

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