Vipec help

joshkoltes · Apr 9, 2017

I think the well went dry over on the vipec site, but this question is more appropriate for this site

pro wire harness question

I have some kind of short

with a multi meter on the red/white and black/blue of the communication port, which is hooked directly to the 5v sensor red/white and the black/blue sensor ground, I read 2.3 millivolts. I can put pressure on the ecu connector and the sensors all start to work semi correctly and the meter will read 4.99v. without pressure on the connector I can then take the red test lead off the red/white and touch any other metal and read 4.30v. with pressure on the ecu plug I get 1.3millivolts everywhere.

I tried some di-electric grease with no change in connection
it dosnt look like I can crimp the terminals to make a tighter connection
I have the entire harness out and felt every wire for nicks in the jacket that might be shorting
I guess my question is what do those two pins in the communication port read on a stock machine with just the ecu powered by 12 volts

did an ohm check with the 12v hooked up and if I use my black test lead on the com port red/white or black/blue it beeps OL, but when I switch the test leads around I don't get any reading nor between the communication wires. without power I don't get a reading

joshkoltes · Apr 9, 2017

just now realizing I can do all this same testing on my bench with the extra harness.

meter between the communication rd/wh and bl/db I get a solid 5v. pull the red and put it to the ground lug reads an even 2 millivolts. switch the leads red test to rd/wh with black test to ground and get solid 5v again.
ohm test between the two communication pins beeps OL only with the red test on the bl/db and the black on the rd/wh, nothing in reverse. red test on the bl/db to ground reads 10 ohms and all other variations of these points make the meter beep but are too small to register a number

so I guess what I'm saying is something is definitely incorrect on the sled and I have no idea what

joshkoltes · Apr 16, 2017

Well I guess my problem has nothing to do with the hood harness

BLITZKRIEG · Apr 16, 2017

Virtually
Impossible
Pieceof
Expensive
Chit

There I helped:face-icon-small-hap

joshkoltes · Apr 16, 2017

Maby I found a lead!

I never ohmed out my brand new sensor. All four read bad

izzni · Apr 17, 2017

joshkoltes said:
Maby I found a lead!

I never ohmed out my brand new sensor. All four read bad

Are those MAP or Barometric pressure sensors? If they are you won't get a resistence value. Those sensors output a voltage. Hook 5V power and ground up and you'll see some value between 1V and 3.5V depending on the range of the sensor.

joshkoltes · Apr 17, 2017

Thanks I'll go give it a shot, I was just going off of the Polaris manual everything is sitting on in the pic

joshkoltes · Apr 17, 2017

I wonder if I'm reading my pins correctly

Reading from the 5v ground to pin 2 should be temp. I get 93 mv. From the 5v ground to pin 4 should be pressure I get .660 v

joshkoltes · Apr 18, 2017

Well that was a bust, I was reading the old sensors backwards. Made for a wasted trip to billings, was pretty proud I haven't had to go there since around Thanksgiving.
Bought a new $118 sensor anyway so the trip wasn't totally empty handed

joshkoltes · Apr 18, 2017

now my throttle safty swith is the issue, actually it might be the entire issue? it seems to be permanently operational to where I cant shut it off being I don't have one.
I can turn it off temporarily until I power off then on and it returns and wont start.

The tss can't be turned off.

If running an aftermarket throttle lever one needs to dissect the old stock throttle lever to remove the two resistors and wire them into the system. Between a black blue wire and the black red that runs back to the ecu

joshkoltes · Apr 21, 2017

Talked to Bryce today and he's a wealth of information just like everybody else says, and thanks if you read this.

Turns out all the issues I was having didn't even exist, I just didn't know how to clear the fault codes properly! Which is great

It cleared immediately by clicking the ECU controls tab at the top of the screen and then selecting clear ECU fault codes from that menu. I'm not sure why it's a different thing than just clearing them directly from the event log but it is.

I even made it up the hill to start recording data!

joshkoltes · Apr 21, 2017

All that being said, it runs but not right. It seems I either have a boost leak or my new turbo is shot.
I should have done more tests but it was just good to get some data recorded

I can gradually apply the throttle to wide open but it levels out at about 6600. if I stab it from a dead stop I get 7845 for a second and it fades down to 67-6600 and holds.

the secondaries never turn on and I get 1 psi boost

Kcjepperson · Sep 28, 2017

I haven't been on here for awhile, but it sounds like you've had the joys of figuring out the Vipec. I have missed feelings about the Ecu. When it works they are amazing especially when you spend the time to figure it all out. But they are so temperamental it's crazy. And, yes they short out wire harnesses. I went through 2 on my 910. This is the first year in 5 years though that I won't be riding it.

I hope you got it all figured out and your sled running right. Sounds like you were super lean if those were your are numbers

RMK900Tractor · Dec 28, 2017

Just wondering if anybody ever got one of these Vipecs to run consistently?

We worked on one for a number of days and had the sled running great making great power then one very cold morning the sled burned down. I suspect we did not have enough fuel compensation for the cold temperature so it got too lean.

I would be interested in obtaining someones bulletproof programming if it exists.

izzni · Dec 28, 2017

I would suggest contacting Dakota Performance for tuning help. They definitely have experience with VIPECs.

joshkoltes · Jan 4, 2018

I had it up today trying some things since I couldn't remember where I was at with it.
It runs but not dialed yet

It has alot of lag. Must be due to this new turbo wanting to make 13 psi. When I reach 13 it detonates and falls out of a wheelie. I kept turning my manual boost controller down and all the way it's still making 11.5 psi and then detonating.
I'm thinking I need a different spring in my wastegate. Was also thinking the lag was due to my blow off valve being all the way tight from my last problem so I loosened it all the way I could and didn't really make a difference.

If I can figure a way to get the boost down where it dosnt detonate then I can call someone about the computer bs

joshkoltes · Jan 6, 2018

anyone know how to set these things up?

with my setup I was assuming id have a total of 7 psi being I had a 7 lb spring in my waste gate? its a turbosmart iwg75

then id think the lag would be controlled by the blow off valve? assuming the lighter the preload the easier the pressure could overcome it? also a turbosmart pro port from turbo performance

the manual boost adjuster is also turbosmart ts 0101 1002

its all on an mta oilless 2860

something isn't right

any ideas appreciated

Scott · Jan 6, 2018

I would call HM Turbos.
They might be able to help.

joshkoltes · Jan 7, 2018

https://system.na3.netsuite.com/cor...30533&h=a351c6b568736ffc66b9&_xt=.pdf&whence=

http://www.turbosmart.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/TS-0101-1001-BT.pdf

http://www.turbosmart.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Universal_VP_Pro.pdf

Vipec help

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