Finished Silber install : high idle problems
- Thread starter TurboMatt
- Start date
T
hey boston, how does you sled idle? LOL just joking.
i hope you find the problem soon. cheers ttt:tea:
i hope you find the problem soon. cheers ttt:tea:
T
Well, I did a little more messing with it this morning. I made myself a tester and adjusted the TPS per the purcedure shown here: http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=287858
It didn't change my idle quality at all. My reverse works now though!!!!So it did something.
I also tried unplugging the oil pump, that didn't do anything.
I double and triple checked the lines coming off the tb boot. They are still on tightly. I also verified the line going to the solenoid was on the right way, it is.
I think my next step is to recheck the TPS adjustment. Maybe try adjusting the idle screw a little bit out of spec to see what that does to the idle.
Also, I wanna try unhooking the other vac lines(BOV, boost gauge) and see if that raises the idle even higher(making a air leak)
I may end up just pulling the kit completely off, putting it back to stock and see if the problem goes away. Then try reinstalling. As I am thinking about it it probably wouldn't take me too long to take it off now that I've done it once.
Another though I had: My sled is a 2011, could Justin have accidentally sent me a box with 2012 mapping? I have no clue what the difference is, but I remember him posting that there was a difference. Does anyone know?
Silber is about 7hrs away from me, if all else fails its going up there to have the master look at it.
It didn't change my idle quality at all. My reverse works now though!!!!So it did something.
I also tried unplugging the oil pump, that didn't do anything.
I double and triple checked the lines coming off the tb boot. They are still on tightly. I also verified the line going to the solenoid was on the right way, it is.
I think my next step is to recheck the TPS adjustment. Maybe try adjusting the idle screw a little bit out of spec to see what that does to the idle.
Also, I wanna try unhooking the other vac lines(BOV, boost gauge) and see if that raises the idle even higher(making a air leak)
I may end up just pulling the kit completely off, putting it back to stock and see if the problem goes away. Then try reinstalling. As I am thinking about it it probably wouldn't take me too long to take it off now that I've done it once.
Another though I had: My sled is a 2011, could Justin have accidentally sent me a box with 2012 mapping? I have no clue what the difference is, but I remember him posting that there was a difference. Does anyone know?
Silber is about 7hrs away from me, if all else fails its going up there to have the master look at it.
I was wondering the year difference as well being mine will go on a 2011 as well.
I would really like to see the throttle blades adjusted down, or for a quick and dirty check can you have sled running and place your hand or tape a board over the turbo air intake so see if you can get it to idle down steady with the intake air restricted? I just think it may be possible that when the sled idles higher the intake pressure rises a tad,thus causuing higher idle,thus causing more pressure in the intake tract,thus causing higher idle ect ect till the max limit of air through the closed butterfly is reached, about 3600 rpm.
we have to remember that we start at vacume in a non turbo engine, the motor "sees" this at idle, now with the turbo sitting there its still blowing air, so lets say if motor has na 14 inches of vacume at idle, then lets say 3 inches turboed...even tho there is no boost thats a huge change and a lot more air through the same .0025 butterfly opening, now if that enough to raise the idle to 3600 in our "loop" you are seeing much more air shoved through the same slot.
This also would make sence in the fact that you said when the engine first starts and you dont blip the throttle you have low idle, at the first rev idle climbes and stayes up..as turbo now spinning faster and your in 'the loop"
Just something to try if you could...give her a 1/2 turn closed, and see what happens, easy to turn backl if it dont work...good luck
like i said before on the dragon motors I rebuilt the adjustment was very sensitive, like 1/4 turn of less moving idle 500 rpms
I would really like to see the throttle blades adjusted down, or for a quick and dirty check can you have sled running and place your hand or tape a board over the turbo air intake so see if you can get it to idle down steady with the intake air restricted? I just think it may be possible that when the sled idles higher the intake pressure rises a tad,thus causuing higher idle,thus causing more pressure in the intake tract,thus causing higher idle ect ect till the max limit of air through the closed butterfly is reached, about 3600 rpm.
we have to remember that we start at vacume in a non turbo engine, the motor "sees" this at idle, now with the turbo sitting there its still blowing air, so lets say if motor has na 14 inches of vacume at idle, then lets say 3 inches turboed...even tho there is no boost thats a huge change and a lot more air through the same .0025 butterfly opening, now if that enough to raise the idle to 3600 in our "loop" you are seeing much more air shoved through the same slot.
This also would make sence in the fact that you said when the engine first starts and you dont blip the throttle you have low idle, at the first rev idle climbes and stayes up..as turbo now spinning faster and your in 'the loop"
Just something to try if you could...give her a 1/2 turn closed, and see what happens, easy to turn backl if it dont work...good luck
like i said before on the dragon motors I rebuilt the adjustment was very sensitive, like 1/4 turn of less moving idle 500 rpms
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J
Can't you just unhook the fuel controller and will know if it is the problem. Doesn't seem like it would be if it ran good at first
J
I know on my apex with the same box, the box wouldn't start fueling till higher than idle. My oem ecu controlled it at idle, not sure if pro is the same way just a thought
When I was talking to Boston Racing, IIRC, he said that the box doesn't affect fueling until 4,000 rpm.
T
I'll give it a try. I have nothing to loose.
yeah kinda what I figured its one of those "well its worth a shot" deals :face-icon-small-win
It should idle normal with no airbox installed.
Pulled my kit down today and made triple sure everything was ok. Had a good look at throttle shaft to make sure it is on the stop at idle. It was and even had a slight bit of slack in the cable. Pulled the harness apart and looked at all the pins and they were fine. Blowoff valve looked good. No pinched wires. Bolted everything back on and the idle was a bit better. Not sure why but now it will jump from 1750 to 2100 which is live able. My sled only has 3.5 hours on it so I have decided to drive the sheet out of it and see what happens. It is ripping but the idle sucks. I am going to take it to the dealer and have TPS checked. Unplugging oil pump did nothing but it was worth a shot.
I had the same high idle issue, tried to adjust it with the butterflies and got it down. Then i didn't get the screw tight enough and it backed out completely and the sled wouldn't idle at all, then wouldn't start. I put the screw back in and just adjusted it to a 13-14 AFR, it idled at about 2200 right off the bat, but I rode the sled for the day and now it's idling 1800-2000 consistently. not sure how far off from stock that out the butterfly but it's working so i'm going with it.
T
That's what I thought. Thanks for the verification. I have off work Thursday so I'm gonna pull everything off and check everything out. Maybe an o-ring slipped out while initially installing everything????
I hope I find something.
Got mine fixed today. Took it to the dealer to have my TPS checked and they found two issues. One was I had the oil pump plugged into the ECU harness and not the auxiliary harness. The other thing was my TPS was not set properly. The paint line was as it left the factory. Do there you go. Installer error (me)
nice !! hope turbomatt finds his issue as well
I'm glad you got it worked out.
T
I worked on mine for a couple hours this evening. I took all the turbo stuff off the sled. I didn't see anything that was obviously wrong when I pulled it apart. My orings from tb boot to tb & tb to airbox were ripped slightly, but it looked like a fresh rip from me trying to get it back off. I don't think it happend from the install. I checked out my reeds, put the stock tb boot back on, mounted the tb's to that, no stock air box. I then rechecked my tps. I was using a different Fluke meter than I used the 1st time and the readings where off from where I just set it the other day. So I readjusted it with this meter. Put the stock pipe back on. Started the sled up, the fu***** thing still idles a 3000 rpms's!!!!wtf?
Everything from the turbo install is unplugged at this point. Couldn't believe it.
So I said screw it and just manually adjusted the idle screw back down to a normal idle. Seemed to work ok and my reverse still works.
After all that I didn't have the ambition to put the turbo stuff back on and try it again. Also, I couldn't find the correct size o-rings to replace my damaged ones at the local hardware store, so I really couldn't do it anyways. Hopefully I'll have new orings by Saturday and I can give er another try.
I know manually adjusting the idle isn't the proper answer but I don't know what happened. If it runs fine I guess who cares.
SSABMUD: You mentioned about he oil pump being plugged into the ECU harness. I have mine plugged into that same plug I think, the one above the clutch. Idon't see any other plug to plug it into???? The only other plug I'm seeing is one that is labeled AC PWR, but I need DC so that won't work.
AC PWR..is accesory power..and should be 12 volt DC...
T
lol, that makes sense. Strangely enough my oil pump wouldn't run when hooked up to that plug though???
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