$300 reward for anyone who can make this part!

nuggetau · Nov 29, 2012

OK, I talked to Sam at outbackmfg.com in Bend Oregon. You can go to their website and see what an incredible high tech facility he has. Sam is a fellow Poo rider so he has agreed to help us out and build these parts for us. He knows that small runs on a million dollar machine won't make him much money, but he is mostly doing it to get us a safe ride. He has also said he would make us the installation studs for the QD belt.

He is currently working on the cad drawing for the clamps, and says he may even build the prototype today. We have decided to put 3 bolts on each side for even more traction. No pricing info as yet.

Please don't contact Sam or Outback(unless you have another project you want to discuss with them), he will not be distributing the parts. Thanks

nuggetau · Nov 29, 2012

On a side note, can anyone direct me to the thread where I saw a drawing of the QD installation studs, I think it was MH who posted it but I'm having no luck finding it. Thanks

yooper 8 · Nov 29, 2012

This is a great solution. Keep us posted. Thanks for all your hard work on this!

MTNRCR · Nov 29, 2012

QD belt install

Taper stub is easy to make. Cut the shoulder area off of a 7/8 bolt drill hole through center taper one end with grinder. Stub 1" long. Get 1 1/4" x 10mm x 1.25 thread bolt. Put stub on top shaft retain with bolt. Bottom sprocket can be started on shaft. On in seconds!

winter brew · Nov 29, 2012

Add a little radius to the inner edge of this clamp so it doesnt create a stress point on the shaft.
Good plan!

Matte Murder · Nov 29, 2012

You are getting a ton of "help" in your design so here is one more. I was wondering if you could put small grooves on the inside for glue to set up in or even holes like the stock piece has for glue to come out of. If the glue set up well there would be no way for this piece to allow the end to spin. Glue, bolts, witchcraft and good thoughts and we might make it through the winter.

bosssho · Nov 30, 2012

It's funny you guys are onto this...b/c being NO engineer...the clamps I bought were V2.0 from one of the guys on here up in Canada and I liked the symetry to them, but the first question I asked was would it make sense to double them up on both sides to spread out the loead and they said NO...Just need to see where the steel collars stop and that's where you need to put the braces on each side...b/c you only NEED to clamp down onto the actual 1/2" or so steel insert inside the weeka$$ aluminum...and I spent $70 x 2 + shipping....:sad:

nuggetau · Nov 30, 2012

Matte Murder said:
You are getting a ton of "help" in your design so here is one more. I was wondering if you could put small grooves on the inside for glue to set up in or even holes like the stock piece has for glue to come out of. If the glue set up well there would be no way for this piece to allow the end to spin. Glue, bolts, witchcraft and good thoughts and we might make it through the winter.

At present we have no intension of using an adhesive(3 bolts on each side will provide a lot of clamping force to prevent slippage), we would like to keep it where you would still have a chance at warranty in the future.

nuggetau · Nov 30, 2012

bosssho said:
It's funny you guys are onto this...b/c being NO engineer...the clamps I bought were V2.0 from one of the guys on here up in Canada and I liked the symetry to them, but the first question I asked was would it make sense to double them up on both sides to spread out the loead and they said NO...Just need to see where the steel collars stop and that's where you need to put the braces on each side...b/c you only NEED to clamp down onto the actual 1/2" or so steel insert inside the weeka$$ aluminum...and I spent $70 x 2 + shipping....:sad:

As a clamp to prevent the extrusion tearing out(which is the after effect, not the cause of the failure), I would agree with them. My plan is to enclose/stabalize the shaft joint. I wanted more bolts and surface area on the extrusion to prevent the clamp from slipping and allowing seperation at the joint.

Chris the sled guy · Nov 30, 2012

If you send me a broken shaft I will engineer a clamp setup and make a proto type. I have a cnc to make it too.

nuggetau · Nov 30, 2012

OK guys, the cad drawing is done, I hope to see the finished prototype today. I will post photo's as soon as I have them.

I am not in this to make much money, so I need to order just what I can sell.

If you are interested in this product send me an email. We might be able to ship as early as mid week, no guarantee on that yet. I will not be taking actual orders or money until I have a product I can actually ship that day. When I can ship, I will make an add in the swap meet section.

My initial price point is $119 including shipping for one clamp. Buy 2 for $230. Dealer pricing(not set yet) when buying 10 or more will be an option.

Again, I am not taking orders, just trying to ascertain the demand! Please don't clutter the thread with replies here. Thanks

Email: husabergfe570@gmail.com

sledneck_03 · Nov 30, 2012

nuggetau said:
OK guys, the cad drawing is done, I hope to see the finished prototype today. I will post photo's as soon as I have them.

I am not in this to make much money, so I need to order just what I can sell.

If you are interested in this product send me an email. We might be able to ship as early as mid week, no guarantee on that yet. I will not be taking actual orders or money until I have a product I can actually ship that day. When I can ship, I will make an add in the swap meet section.

My initial price point is $119 including shipping for one clamp. Buy 2 for $230. Dealer pricing(not set yet) when buying 10 or more will be an option.

Again, I am not taking orders, just trying to ascertain the demand! Please don't clutter the thread with replies here. Thanks

Email: husabergfe570@gmail.com

you owe me $85 for my initial drawing

haha jk, but seriously i charge $85 an hour for drafting.

whoisthatguy · Nov 30, 2012

Or you could just fabricate an aluminum or stainless steel cylindrical mold/can that surrounds the driveshaft end and has 3/4" minium clearance, and has an open end for the 6 sided polygon end and a fixed end cap conforming to the round steel shaft at the other. Drill in maybe 12 #8 TEK screws into the aluminum, slide the cylinder over, stand the driveshaft on it's capped end, and pour the structural epoxy of your choice into the mold. You get a snug tight, mechanically fastened, fully confined driveshaft end. No screws to come undone.

nuggetau · Nov 30, 2012

sledneck_03 said:
you owe me $85 for my initial drawing

haha jk, but seriously i charge $85 an hour for drafting.

Yikes, glad I scrolled all the way to the bottom! :face-icon-small-sho Thanks for interpreting what I was describing. I'm sure your drawing made it much easier for everyone to visulaize what I was describing. Thanks! Just to clarify, the part being made is not from sledneck_03's drawing.

paulharris · Nov 30, 2012

so in the title of this post you are looking for someone to come up with a solution and you were willing to pay $300 for that part, but now you are the manufacturer? I'm confused. did you use this guys drawing and idea? apparently he thinks so for the $85 posted above. maybe its joke and you guys are buddys.

Anyway, this does appear to be a much better design to strengthen the driveshaft and that is good.

akmclean · Nov 30, 2012

This is absurd! Would anyone in there right mind pay $230 to MAYBE fix this issue on their BRAND NEW sled.

This is why polaris is in no hurry to make it right, if people are willing to blow hundreds to fix something before they even ride it. And we are not talking windshields and running board upgrades. The driveshaft is CRITICAL.

nuggetau · Nov 30, 2012

paulharris said:
so in the title of this post you are looking for someone to come up with a solution and you were willing to pay $300 for that part, but now you are the manufacturer? I'm confused. did you use this guys drawing and idea? apparently he thinks so for the $85 posted above. maybe its joke and you guys are buddys.

Anyway, this does appear to be a much better design to strengthen the driveshaft and that is good.

I did not ask for a solution, I described the solution and he made a drawing of what I described. No CNC shop has any interest in making a one off for the amount of money I would be willing to pay.

I was contacted by a CNC shop that said he could make them, so the only way I could get what I wanted was to commit to buying a bunch and trying to recoup the investment.

I don't know sledneck03, and scroll to the bottom of his post, he was joking.

nuggetau · Nov 30, 2012

akmclean said:
This is absurd! Would anyone in there right mind pay $230 to MAYBE fix this issue on their BRAND NEW sled.

This is why polaris is in no hurry to make it right, if people are willing to blow hundreds to fix something before they even ride it. And we are not talking windshields and running board upgrades. The driveshaft is CRITICAL.

You answered your own question, "The driveshaft is CRITICAL." I would rather not be trying to fix this either. Profit is not my motive for doing this, I just wanted to have a reliable sled that would't strand me. It's as simple as that!

nuggetau · Nov 30, 2012

We will be offering QD installation studs for $40 per pair(plus shipping). Compared to $65 from Polaris.

Hawkster · Nov 30, 2012

I'll apply for that 300 bucks ?

How about droping the driveshaft and take stainless steel banding and double rap the end caps that slide into the shaft and use the banding tool to tighten the holy crap out of it.

Done right there should be no way that will even have a chance to come out .

You could actually crush the drive shaft if you don't know what your doing .

Not to mention it will be fairly flush with the driveshaft .

Where do I collect :face-icon-small-hap

better ?

$300 reward for anyone who can make this part!

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