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$300 reward for anyone who can make this part!

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nuggetau

Well-known member
Sep 26, 2009
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Idaho
I will pay $300 to anyone who can make me a CNC billet 2 piece clamp that is 2 inches wide on the extrusion( full contact on all sides with 2 recessed stainless bolts on each side) that curves out and encloses the steel shaft cap. It must be a close tolerance fit, especially on the steel cap.


I want nothing to do with the current clamps as they do not address the reason the shafts are failing. The shaft has tension on it from multiple sources, track tension, absorbing impacts to the approach angle, sudden braking, etc. Those forces pull back and forth on the center of the shaft which causes the tinniest of separations, these forces are trying to lengthen the shaft which cause the joint to pull apart. Over hundreds of thousands of revolutions that tiny separation gets big enough that the joint binds, combined with the rotational force it then tears out the sidewall of the extrusion.


The current "fix" does absolutely nothing to address the cause of the failure!!! It will extend the time before the extrusion fails, that is all! But in reinforcing the weak tear point(extrusion), you now will just transfer an even greater force somewhere else once the joint gets sloppy enough to fail. More than likely it will be the casting supporting the steel shaft.


There are really only 2 solutions, buy a steel shaft which will cost you $200-500 (if you can find one) or stabalize the joint in the existing shaft so that it can't separate and fail. The existing clamp does not stabalize the joint, it only helps to prolong the tear out.


My offer is genuine, if you can make a close tolerance clamp as I described I will buy it! This $300 fix would be cheaper and easier than trying to find a steel shaft with the right drivers, bearings, and that has little run out which could cause problems with the Quick drive.
 
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nuggetau

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Sep 26, 2009
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I would want 2 small changes to the drawing. Slightly increase the distance between the bolt holes.

In drawing A-A, bring the outboard edge of the clamp back onto the contour of the cap.

Thanks, good work interpretting what I was describing. :face-icon-small-hap
 
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mud99

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Premium Member
Oct 13, 2009
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Truckee, CA
I'd buy one of those for more like $100, although I think it should be a bit longer as well.

How about a group buy?
 
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nuggetau

Well-known member
Sep 26, 2009
1,008
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I'd buy one of those for more like $100, although I think it should be a bit longer as well.

How about a group buy?


This will take more time on the CNC and more aluminum, so I thought $300 was OK for 2 of them (one each side) for a one off build. But I am told no one will want to do a one off for that price, which I understand.

Considering the current clamp is about $100, and almost any shaft will end up costing you $200-500. Plus the time and agravation of removing and installing another shaft. I may have to pony up and put my money were my mouth is and order a bunch and sell them. :face-icon-small-ton
 
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mud99

Well-known member
Premium Member
Oct 13, 2009
214
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Truckee, CA
Ok, that makes more sense. I am only looking for one side.

Anyway, i'd be in for a group buy at $100 if that is possible.
 

AKSNOWRIDER

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finally , nice work Nuggetau, been wondering how long till someone figured out the answer for a clamp that will work..I will add this..it should also use pins that locate into the stock holes in the tube(after running a bit in to clean all glue out)....talk to snowdawg..I explained exactly what you are wanting to him several weeks ago..might get him to make you a few....
 
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nuggetau

Well-known member
Sep 26, 2009
1,008
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Idaho
I just spoke to a CNC shop that may want to make them. He isn't sure whether he wanted to be the distributor or not. I told him I would buy them in lots of 100 to sell myself if he didn't want to do it. So, we might have a workable version pretty soon, no timetable set as yet. He said he would try and get back to me with an estimated unit cost today.
 

wjl

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Mar 29, 2008
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Eden, UTAH
Best idea yet. I would think 2" long into the shaft would work meauring from the large shaft end. How thick would the material be 1/4" or 3/8" thick.
Definitely in for a pair.
 
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nuggetau

Well-known member
Sep 26, 2009
1,008
452
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Idaho
finally , nice work Nuggetau, been wondering how long till someone figured out the answer for a clamp that will work..I will add this..it should also use pins that locate into the stock holes in the tube(after running a bit in to clean all glue out)....talk to snowdawg..I explained exactly what you are wanting to him several weeks ago..might get him to make you a few....



I'm not certain that the hole to end cap distance would be consistent from shaft to shaft. If they are off even a mm, then I would be having customers saying they didn't fit.
 
B
Nov 26, 2007
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you should email utv inc, or utv crap what ever its called. they probably have this half made from the cages of sxs's

might be able to make it cheaper for you.
 
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nuggetau

Well-known member
Sep 26, 2009
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Idaho
you should email utv inc, or utv crap what ever its called. they probably have this half made from the cages of sxs's

might be able to make it cheaper for you.


I just went to the website for the guys I have been talking to, Wow, they have some really impressive equipment and facilities. I won't disclose who they are until I know if we have a deal that works for both us.
 

whoisthatguy

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The potential difficulties with that solution is that each half would require slipping on over the end of the shaft, which requires removal of the driveshaft. The raised and rounded outside bead lines on each corner of the 6 sided aluminum center section, would tend to spread each half of the clamp and bend out the opposing legs, if it was attempted to be slid into place with driveshaft still on sled. The opposite legs would be pushed out enough to fail in tension at the corners. Also, the clamping forces on the aluminum section, may not be sufficient to keep the steel end cap from rotating and pulling out of the aluminum section. 2 staggered through bolts would help prevent that end cap pullout.
 
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metallicat

Well-known member
Nov 27, 2007
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Rugby, ND
You know, just when you get about sick of all the bitching and complaining and nonsense on the forums about certain issues, it does a 180 and it still amazes what you guys can come up with!! Great work!:light:
 

cateye5312

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Premium Member
Mar 28, 2009
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You'd better build a prototype and test the hell out of it before you order a hundred! A paperweight is still a paperweight whether it costs you $300 or $12,000! :face-icon-small-win

Ok, for those of you who don't recognize sarcasm and from some of the replies on here a bunch of you don't, the last sentence was sarcasm!
 
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nuggetau

Well-known member
Sep 26, 2009
1,008
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Idaho
The potential difficulties with that solution is that each half would require slipping on over the end of the shaft, which requires removal of the driveshaft. The raised and rounded outside bead lines on each corner of the 6 sided aluminum center section, would tend to spread each half of the clamp and bend out the opposing legs, if it was attempted to be slid into place with driveshaft still on sled. The opposite legs would be pushed out enough to fail in tension at the corners. Also, the clamping forces on the aluminum section, may not be sufficient to keep the steel end cap from rotating and pulling out of the aluminum section. 2 staggered through bolts would help prevent that end cap pullout.


A 2 piece clamp can be made to work if the clearance over one of the raised ribs is made slightly larger to accomodate when placed over the shaft. Or it could be made in thirds, 3 sets of bolts. So, no need to remove the shaft.
 
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nuggetau

Well-known member
Sep 26, 2009
1,008
452
83
Idaho
You'd better build a prototype and test the hell out of it before you order a hundred! A paperweight is still a paperweight whether it costs you $300 or $12,000! :face-icon-small-win

Ok, for those of you who don't recognize sarcasm and from some of the replies on here a bunch of you don't, the last sentence was sarcasm!


I will adopt the Poo, Doo and Puddytat business model. Build it and let the customer test it. Of course I will have to use a disclaimer for liability. :face-icon-small-ton:face-icon-small-ton
 
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