replacing engine straps... ?

fonetikal · Apr 28, 2011

So, turns out both of my engine straps are broken, how do ya like that?

My question is, is it possible to replace the straps by just lifting the motor a bit, or tilting it enough, so as to avoid disconnecting all the coolant, fuel, oil, and electrical just for 4 bolts?

xc6rider · Apr 29, 2011

I know you can swap the mag side with just lifting it. The pto side I'm not sure. I lifted mine to get the mag side out to correct clutch alignment, and don't know how much room I had to work with on the pto side.

However, with all the jacking around I did to get myself room, I could of pulled it and had em both out with little extra time. Also, with both of them broken in your case, I'd want to inspect everything, and you won't be able to see $hit with just lifting it!

milehighassassin · Apr 29, 2011

Engine strap??? = Motor mount???

diamonddave · Apr 29, 2011

You are going to better off pulling the motor. Believe me, it's easier.

FTXMOTORSPORTS · Apr 29, 2011

I'll second Dave on that one-you'll be in a far better mood when you're done too!

plus, you can get a good look at more components and maybe catch any other problems before they happen.

Curt

fonetikal · Apr 30, 2011

damnit... alright I'll accept it. Thanks

xc6rider · Apr 30, 2011

It'll be a piece of cake! Otherwise, you'll just be cursing nonstop tryin the short cut. Before ya know it, you'll be pulling your engine just to clean things when you're bored

skiwiz · Apr 30, 2011

Tighten your steering linkage when your in there !

Rick! · May 1, 2011

skiwiz said:
Tighten your steering linkage when your in there !

Great call. I had to tighten the rod end nut that connects to the steering post on almost all my IQ/ Raw buggies. While you're in there, tighten the thru bolts that hold the idler and pitman arms too.

fonetikal · May 1, 2011

Rick! said:
Great call. I had to tighten the rod end nut that connects to the steering post on almost all my IQ/ Raw buggies. While you're in there, tighten the thru bolts that hold the idler and pitman arms too.

Already managed to tighten all this stuff up, it was actually the initial cause of all my problems (needed to sidehill right around some trees, shifted weight, hit gas and steered left, bars turned, skis did not :face-icon-small-sad)

I'm just not looking forward to disconnecting all the fluids (mainly coolant) don't get me wrong I love wrenching on stuff! Oh and I don't have the tools to remove or reinstall my clutch. Can I get away without them?

slash · May 1, 2011

while you have it out check with 1200psi he builds premium mounts that wont break

edgexcsp · May 2, 2011

slash925 said:
while you have it out check with 1200psi he builds premium mounts that wont break

I broke a mount and a strap so I am interested in some more info in these motor mounts?

fonetikal · May 2, 2011

like he said, contact a member named "1200psi"

He makes 1-pc plates, and he quoted me $215 for mine, plus shipping I presume..

modsledr · May 2, 2011

fonetikal said:
Already managed to tighten all this stuff up, it was actually the initial cause of all my problems (needed to sidehill right around some trees, shifted weight, hit gas and steered left, bars turned, skis did not :face-icon-small-sad)

I'm just not looking forward to disconnecting all the fluids (mainly coolant) don't get me wrong I love wrenching on stuff! Oh and I don't have the tools to remove or reinstall my clutch. Can I get away without them?

you can actually collect most of the coolant by removing the water pump hose from it's upper connection (this is the hose that comes from the water pump on the bottom/front of the engine)....just put a clean pan under the exhaust hole in the belly pan and pull the coolant line from it's top conection and quickly move it down to the exhaust hole.

skibreeze · May 2, 2011

I use a mighty vac and a long plastic 1/4" hose to siphon the coolant bottle dry then undo the bottom hose and stick the hose down the hose going to the water pump. Spills almost none and am able to reuse it.

fonetikal · May 2, 2011

I'm liking these tips! How about when I have to bleed the oil pump?

Rick! · May 3, 2011

skibreeze said:
I use a mighty vac and a long plastic 1/4" hose to siphon the coolant bottle dry then undo the bottom hose and stick the hose down the hose going to the water pump. Spills almost none and am able to reuse it.

A cheap outboard motor squeeze bulb and 6 feet of clear hose works well. Suck out the bottle and when that stops, fish the hose towards the pump and suck out the rest. It really takes the hassle out of removing engines. And yes, you can take the engine out with the drive clutch on even without removing the brace tube.

fonetikal · May 3, 2011

Rick! said:
A cheap outboard motor squeeze bulb and 6 feet of clear hose works well.

Ooooh that's a good idea! I have a siphon with a pump that came with some ****ty roadside "emergency" kit someone got me for my truck!

PAT2 · May 5, 2011

I wouldn't put stock straps back in. I had same problem. I got a one piece plate from FTXMOTORSPORTS! Way stronger and also helps keep crankcase from twisting also.

fonetikal · May 16, 2011

PAT2 said:
I wouldn't put stock straps back in. I had same problem. I got a one piece plate from FTXMOTORSPORTS! Way stronger and also helps keep crankcase from twisting also.

funds are tight and I got a good deal on a pair from a buddy at a dealer.

Well I tackled her yesterday, and it went fairly smooth!

223333_10150186215168123_503268122_7282745_4986821_n.jpg

Let's dance..

224231_10150186215513123_503268122_7282749_3597044_n.jpg

Pretty much apart.

228401_10150186215668123_503268122_7282752_5443872_n.jpg

"Engine hoist" you safety dweebs can suck it.

226903_10150186215848123_503268122_7282754_2921325_n.jpg

Got 'em out and the new ones in without touching fuel lines, oil, clutch, y-pipe, throttle boddies, and half the electrical and coolant hoses.

228626_10150186216008123_503268122_7282757_2356228_n.jpg

Back together and fired up 2nd pull!

Thanks for all the help! And one thing I'd watch for next time, is when installing the PTO side make sure you don't pin your oil pump throttle cable plate thing under the strap. I got it back together, started, pull the throttle and it was jammed, couldn't believe it! Had to take the throttle bodies off (usually not a problem but with the new boots they're a bitch to get back on) and was luckily able to pull the plate back over with my finger, otherwise I would have been taking it all apart again to loosen that strap off :face-icon-small-sad

edit: Yes I realize my pipe is dented in. I'm having trouble finding anyone around here who can blow it out for me. How bad is it to run it like that?

replacing engine straps... ?

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