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09 xp belt life

F
Nov 28, 2007
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i have a 09n 163 and it has about 600 miles and my belt is starting to go. (the cord on one side is gone). is this about the normal life? all mile put on hard mt. riding. thnaks
 

bleu bayou

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Dec 2, 2007
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09 XP 154 176 miles, 1 grenaded belt, and a rider highmarking the sled after taking out the windshield on the way over the top. Somethin' still aint right with the stock Doo clutches creating the heat. The sled still had foam and plastic cover on belt guard, no vents, no gearing changes from stock.
 

BC-XP

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Nov 29, 2007
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Kamloops
i have a 09n 163 and it has about 600 miles and my belt is starting to go. (the cord on one side is gone). is this about the normal life? all mile put on hard mt. riding. thnaks


I've got an 08 XP 154 with over 800 clicks and counting on one 377 belt. All hard mountain riding.

Cooked a couple of 166's at the start, but 377 is holding up fine.
 

Draxxus

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i have only 130 on mine no weae yet, but i wana keep this thread going to get a idea of what ppl are expeiriancing for belt life
 

Trashy

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I've got an 08 XP 154 with over 800 clicks and counting on one 377 belt. All hard mountain riding.

Cooked a couple of 166's at the start, but 377 is holding up fine.

Ditto.... I checked the alignment, gave the clutches a good scuff and keep everything meticulously clean; haven't used up a belt all year. Don't forget to keep it in adjustment too :)
 
S

SilverGriz

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Oct 22, 2004
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I usually get between 500-600 miles out of the 377. This is with venting and the racewerx clutch brace.
 

Norona

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09 146 summit 1300km on the first belt. All mountain powder riding, just installed a new one and will keep the first on as a back up for now. Vent kit installed and works awesome. I periodically take the belt off and wash it with hot soapy water and clean the clutches...Love the sled...
 
I
Dec 14, 2001
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Archer, Idaho
All Hard Mountain Miles

08 154 800r: Original 377 Belt = 1180 miles when I sold it, and the guy has put a couple hundred more on it, still running it. Proper breakin, alignment, vents and clutching.

08 146 800r: Original 377 Belt 1080 miles Proper breakin, alignment, vents and clutching. Changed to new belt, but the old one is still good to go.

08 154 800r: Original 377 Belt = 1700 miles and still running it. Proper breakin, alignment, vents and clutching.

09 163 800r: Original 377 Belt = 300 miles and still looks new. Proper breakin, alignment, vents and clutching.


Thats 4260 + miles and no belt failures.
 

Draxxus

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with slims post i can only think that the problems are to do witht the alignment it must be a problem with them when they come out of the crate because most guys that are eating them continue to eat them and the guys that dont have problems dont develop them at a later date. im gona give mine a real good test this weekend have sum deep wet freshies to play in. i have 130 kms venting and no probs yet.
 
F
Nov 28, 2007
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well with what has ben said 600 on the first belt not bad but could be alot better. i will check the alignment. i have a good vent kit and my clutches never seem hot i can hold my hand on them after riding. what is recomended for PROPER BELT BREAKIN?
 

Trashy

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well with what has ben said 600 on the first belt not bad but could be alot better.

Ya don't say.... Before this XP I had a boosted Apex that I sold with the same $79 belt it left the factory with... the break-in consisted of half mile wheelies and 2 minute pulls up chutes :face-icon-small-sho

That said, to make a belt last on an XP seems to involve a thorough cleaning of the belt with soap and water, and typical clutch maintenance. (I spent a lot of time cleaning all the shipping oil and spilled/leaked injection oil from under the entire hood area, then as mentioned before cleaning a scuffing the belt contact surface on the clutches. And adjust as needed to keep the bottom of the belt ridges even with the top of the secondary. So far so good:) )
 

winter brew

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I have never broken in a belt and they last a full season or more of hard riding. Just don't hammer it until you've ridden about 1 mile to get things warmed up a bit, belts tend to slip until they get warm and soften up a bit. With proper setup ther is not a need to baby a belt.
 
I
Dec 14, 2001
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Archer, Idaho
what is recomended for PROPER BELT BREAKIN?

I posted it all last year in this thread ............
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43179

Here is the main part ................

#1. BELT Issues: IMHO the biggest issue is how you break it in and SECONDARY adjustment. We have (3) 154's and (1) 146 with a total of about 450 miles, NO blown belts, let me repeat NO blown belts. I feel this is why; Beforethe first ride, took both sets of belts and scrubbed them down in soapy water and dried overnight. First ride BABIED the throttle for the first 5 miles always feathering the rpm NEVER going over 7000 rpm - I believe this to be critical. Then we stopped for 10 minutes, opened the panels and let the clutches kool off. Then we went another 5 miles, and feathered up to 8000 rpm, again NEVER pinning it. Again, stopped after another 5 miles, adjusted secodary if needed, opened panels and waited 10 minutes. Last 5 miles (to 15 now), we would pin it for 3 - 4 seconds and keep feathering the thriottle, stop open panels, adjust and kool off, after that ........ Rode it like a $1000 hooker. On the way out on the first ride, we swapped belts to the new one and repeated the process on the way out. I know 140 miles is not alot to brag about belt wear, but I was full throttle for 1 FULL miles at 90 mph after this break in and the belt looks PERFECT.

#2 Along with the break in above, Attention the new secondary is paramount. Yes it might be a PITA, but there are some things that are a MUST for your belt. Always ensure your belt deflection is set at the top of the cord even with the top of the sheave (top of the notch bottom). If the sled feels like its dragging you down, STOP! and check your primary, you will see a black mark in the center, ADJUST the seconday to as stated above. Another point, the plastic center nut needs attention almost each time you stop for awhile, Again, this is an issue, but you can over come it by just being proactive and checking it and adjusting it. We found we were not tightening the center fitting enuf, (but don't CRANK it down!) and the belt deflection would change as we rode, hence, belt would wear bad, adjusted it, and walla issue gone.

#3. Yes you need some type of clutch side venting. For now, I have removed the shock tower button plug, and cutout the small triangle section of the panel and covered with screen. We also drilled (7) 1/2 inch holes at the foot rest spot in the panels to exit hot air, and of course you must remove that damn clutch cover plastic piece of garbage.

#4. Gearing change will help, but (2) of the 154's are being ridden by 210-240 lb doods WITHOUT a gear swap, and they have no issues either.

#5. Now the fun part, QUIT worrying about the performance until you hit about the 100 mile mark, when It wakes up,OMFG!!:eek: Its like a different sled, exrtemely fast and one of the most impressive mid-ranges I have ever rode. At first I could not go past 60mph, later that day when it changed,It pulled hard to 90.

#6. Once you hit this break-in sweet spot, NOW you can clutch, IMO you are going to need to put BACK in the 2 gms of primary pin weight DOO had your dealers take out, I had our dealer leave both Jo's 146 and my

#7. Forgot about the secodary/Oil issue. On the maiden breakin rides, I packed along a roll of paper towels and alcohol. When BRP did the chaincase/breather update and changed out the chaincase cover, many sleds came with the fresh oil spilt under the motor. During the course of first rides, MANY if not most all of the riders didnt wipe this up, BRP mistake yes, but you can cover their azz by cleaning this up during each 5 mile stop, we did, after the 15 mile stop,no more oil. And none on the belt.

#8. Cut Your secondary Cog. The slots are in the secondary center cog, the "black" plastic piece that you adjust your belt deflection, loosen the inner aluminum nipple and take out the whole thing, you will see the slots that are not cut completely, take out the "O" ring, cut the four slots carefully with a hacksaw, put back the "O" and re-install and tighten the nipple down firm but DON't strip it
 

Trashy

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how hard is it to do the clutch alignment. i thought the secondary and the jack shaft are one pieces?

They are.... you move the engine to obtain belt alignment. In some cases it is necessary to oblong the bolt holes. But before even thinking about this you should read Slim's post above! And do all the steps he has outlined. ;)
 
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