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Long Rod PRO Motor

R

RKT

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Jul 19, 2001
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I am a busy person and I do not have time to monitor this forum, I have had a few phone calls telling me I need to check out whats going on.

I respect the comments & I thank those who have used my services, And those who will in the future.

I have not read this thread I skimmed it and saw that RKT is having a mild heart attack on my behalf.

Heres what I have to say and then I am back to my Life & my business working on the Polaris stuff I love to the core ( Just bought a new Victory and I absolutely LOVE IT !! )

Ok back to what I want to say in closing and I will let this thread go for all its worth.

First I am a Polaris guy to the absolute core !! And Polaris is what I do and will always do.

RKT has been a Ski Doo Arctic cat man and that use to be the sh!t, Now he finds the PRO Chassis to be the King of Mountain sleds at this moment in time. and he feels he has missed the boat because many are junping ship because the sled is that good.

The Dragon Motor & the PRO motor are one in the same other then ( stay currect upgrades ) The cranks are part for part interchangable from 08 to 2013. What we have here is a mad scramble to catch up.

In parting I say - Good Luck RKT with your pistons.

I have a 3 and a 5 year warranty option and I have the means to back it.
I have been offering 3 to 5 year warranties sense 2003 and you can search the internet and you will not find a customer of mine that will say I have not built a great product & back it to the fullest extent.

Thank you everyone.

Dan


Well, Dan
In all that , you could not answer the 2 very simple questions I put forth...
I am still just ASKING for the reasoning behind the statements you make..


If asking 2 questions from a Polaris expert, is having a mild heart attack, then I certainly had one..

I see it as simply asking 2 simple questions.. but again,,, no answers just rude talk and speculation and dorrogatory comments....

BTW..The Dragon and the Pro engines are very different.. VERY different.

Also for the record... RK Tek has been doing Polaris Performance since 2001... Hardly a newcomer into the Polaris arena...11 years is a long time..


AK, thanks for your answers, so, if I read you correctly.. the rod ratio is not an issue but the "other" items you listed MAY be the issue..?? Am I reading you correctly?

I do not replate cylinders with my kit, so, not sure where that came from???

Also, not sure where I claim to fix this engine... I claim to reduce side loading via a better and lighter piston.. And this is accomplished.

Ak..1 question to you.. You mention Carls kit using a thicker skirt/stronger cylinder.. So, how much thicker is this skirt? I really know nothing of this kit and would like to know the thickness difference..

In any case.. Still trying to get some factual data that supports the idea of a rod ratio deisgn flaw.. that's all..

Turning this thread into something it is not is silly... I have not said one negative thing about Dan's kit... All I did was ask 2 questions of him... Oh.. and apparently had a heart attack..

Again, just looking for answers...Nothing more...
 
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S

scrfce

Active member
Oct 10, 2009
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bc
Well, Dan
In all that , you could not answer the 2 very simple questions I put forth...
I am still just ASKING for the reasoning behind the statements you make..


If asking 2 questions from a Polaris expert, is having a mild heart attack, then I certainly had one.. I see it as simply asking 2 simple questions.. but again,,, no answers just rude talk and speculation and dorrogatory comments....

BTW..The Dragon and the Pro engines are very different.. VERY different.


AK, thanks for your answers, so, if I read you correctly.. the rod ratio is not an issue but the "other" items you listed MAY be the issue..??

I do not replate cylinders with my kit, so, not sure where that came from???

Also, not sure where I claim to fix this engine... I claim to reduce side loading via a better and lighter piston.. And this is accomplished.

Ak..1 question to you.. You mention Carls kit using a thicker skirt.. So, how much thicker is this skirt? I really know nothing of this kit and would like to know the thickness difference..

In any case.. Still trying to get some factual data that supports the idea of a rod ratio deisgn flaw.. that's all..

Turning this thread into something it is not is silly.
Again, just looking for answers...Nothing more...
I kinda lurk and read then try to decipher what if any of this bs is true,,,,,,soooo if ur lookin fer answers, which seems u only ever answer the ones u can politic around.........y dont u offer warranty like indydan. Plain. Simple. Answer. ?


I expect no response
 

AKSNOWRIDER

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Honestly kelsey, i dont know..wasnt allowed to throw a micrometer on it and measure it, it was sitting on the bench next to the stock monocylinder and you could see it was beefier..I am sure if you call carl's they would have more info..as for you not plating the cylinders..on the stockers you arnt..but you do on the 858 kit right? which means you should have total control over piston/wall clearances....just a thought, since I know you are wanting to sell these kits..a warranty goes along way with most guys and I am sure it would help you sell more...good luck....

oh..and just so you know..of all the motors you keep bringing up as far as rod ratios/bores/strokes/blowing up...by far the dragon motor(vrs the cat or doo) is closer by far then any other to the pro motor..only diff between a 10 dragon motor and the 11 pro motor is the injector bosses on the cylinders, and some very minor port differences and the pistons..cranks are identical right down to part number.. cases are same as far as deck height and all internal measurments that I have looked at... so if the only issue with the pro is pistons.. it should be the same with the dragon(mechanically..not fuel or electrically related)...
 
T

theultrarider

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,311
891
113
Soldotna Alaska
Well, Dan
In all that , you could not answer the 2 very simple questions I put forth...
I am still just ASKING for the reasoning behind the statements you make..


If asking 2 questions from a Polaris expert, is having a mild heart attack, then I certainly had one..

I see it as simply asking 2 simple questions.. but again,,, no answers just rude talk and speculation and dorrogatory comments....

BTW..The Dragon and the Pro engines are very different.. VERY different.

Also for the record... RK Tek has been doing Polaris Performance since 2001... Hardly a newcomer into the Polaris arena...11 years is a long time..


AK, thanks for your answers, so, if I read you correctly.. the rod ratio is not an issue but the "other" items you listed MAY be the issue..?? Am I reading you correctly?

I do not replate cylinders with my kit, so, not sure where that came from???

Also, not sure where I claim to fix this engine... I claim to reduce side loading via a better and lighter piston.. And this is accomplished.

Ak..1 question to you.. You mention Carls kit using a thicker skirt/stronger cylinder.. So, how much thicker is this skirt? I really know nothing of this kit and would like to know the thickness difference..

In any case.. Still trying to get some factual data that supports the idea of a rod ratio deisgn flaw.. that's all..

Turning this thread into something it is not is silly... I have not said one negative thing about Dan's kit... All I did was ask 2 questions of him... Oh.. and apparently had a heart attack..

Again, just looking for answers...Nothing more...



Kelsy,
Since we all are just after some actual answers here, how about one for you? What does your 858 kit dyno out to? Ok, I understand that true hp can be skewd by a dyno so rather than an actual number I think most all of us will accept a number that tells us how many more horses over stock with your kit rather than the final number. You also claim that your drop in kit makes hp over stock. Once again, How many horses would this be? Just the horses gained will suffice. Not the final reading on the dyno since this does indeed vary from machine to machine.

Many of us here would love to have the answer to these 2 simple answers that you no doubt have the sheets to backup your answer with.


Thank you
Ultra
 

AKSNOWRIDER

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Kelsy,
Since we all are just after some actual answers here, how about one for you? What does your 858 kit dyno out to? Ok, I understand that true hp can be skewd by a dyno so rather than an actual number I think most all of us will accept a number that tells us how many more horses over stock with your kit rather than the final number. You also claim that your drop in kit makes hp over stock. Once again, How many horses would this be? Just the horses gained will suffice. Not the final reading on the dyno since this does indeed vary from machine to machine.

Many of us here would love to have the answer to these 2 simple answers that you no doubt have the sheets to backup your answer with.


Thank you
Ultra
uhmmm..me thinks you are not allowed to have those..but thats just a guess.....maybe a vid would..oh wait..I asked for one of those..none have been made yet...maybe next season...
 
S

scrfce

Active member
Oct 10, 2009
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bc
Kelsy,
Since we all are just after some actual answers here, how about one for you? What does your 858 kit dyno out to? Ok, I understand that true hp can be skewd by a dyno so rather than an actual number I think most all of us will accept a number that tells us how many more horses over stock with your kit rather than the final number. You also claim that your drop in kit makes hp over stock. Once again, How many horses would this be? Just the horses gained will suffice. Not the final reading on the dyno since this does indeed vary from machine to machine.

Many of us here would love to have the answer to these 2 simple answers that you no doubt have the sheets to backup your answer with.


Thank you
Ultra
Here ill answer for u..... " i dont play the hp games" or the "dyno numbers cause anybody can post them"..........buuuuuuut if ur into a 925 kit ill brag my 190+hp dyno #'s all day long. Ive bought ur products kelsey and some do work but the longer i read ur responses the more i disregard ur professionalism,,,,, and mainly cause u ALWAYS dodge the ??? At hand. One mans observation.
 
H

harps500

Active member
Feb 4, 2012
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1) Holy thread jack

2) Summary of current discussion:
"I remember when I had my first beer..."

3) I'm going to run my two year warranty and trade mine in for another leftover. Scooped a 2012 Assault E/S for 9k in the crate in March. Both of these "fixes" are too expensive for me. I'd rather just invest my money in a new one in two years and rely on the strong relationship I've built with my local dealer in the 12-15% chance it grenades in the next two years.

4) All this talk and no one is addressing the real problem. No fawking snow!
 

indydan

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 27, 2007
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www.indyspecialty.com
Well, Dan
In all that , you could not answer the 2 very simple questions I put forth...
I am still just ASKING for the reasoning behind the statements you make..


If asking 2 questions from a Polaris expert, is having a mild heart attack, then I certainly had one..

I see it as simply asking 2 simple questions.. but again,,, no answers just rude talk and speculation and dorrogatory comments....

BTW..The Dragon and the Pro engines are very different.. VERY different.

Also for the record... RK Tek has been doing Polaris Performance since 2001... Hardly a newcomer into the Polaris arena...11 years is a long time..


AK, thanks for your answers, so, if I read you correctly.. the rod ratio is not an issue but the "other" items you listed MAY be the issue..?? Am I reading you correctly?

I do not replate cylinders with my kit, so, not sure where that came from???

Also, not sure where I claim to fix this engine... I claim to reduce side loading via a better and lighter piston.. And this is accomplished.

Ak..1 question to you.. You mention Carls kit using a thicker skirt/stronger cylinder.. So, how much thicker is this skirt? I really know nothing of this kit and would like to know the thickness difference..

In any case.. Still trying to get some factual data that supports the idea of a rod ratio deisgn flaw.. that's all..

Turning this thread into something it is not is silly... I have not said one negative thing about Dan's kit... All I did was ask 2 questions of him... Oh.. and apparently had a heart attack..

Again, just looking for answers...Nothing more...

You want answers...........Its Funny I don't have any questions for you.

#1 - I am not here to teach you how to make a 2 stroke last longer then the factory.
#2 - I have 4 Honing machines, New cost of these machines Over $60,000.00, I have a shop full of engine rebuilding equipment. I do NOT use a CNC in any stage of the rebuilding process to the Polaris 800 small block.

You are a head desginer & builder ( CNC works good for this ) Your achine center cost more then those 4 hones added together. CNC's do not work for finish honing a plated cylinder.

The reason I can warranty my motors for extended periods of time is because I control the fit & finish of the final motor.

I have my cylinders plated by Millennium to a undersized number with plenty of cushion so I can fit them to the size I want them to be. ( I do NOT Blame them as you do for incorrect sizing ) Millennium USA is hands down the number one plating company. And they pride themselves on size. ( Yes anyone can make a mistake but its damn rare @ Millennium.

I choose to finish hone with a $25,000 Power stroke diamond headed hone, You choose to suggest that Nicasil doesn't wear & you can drop pistons in because the cylinders are the right size from the factory ( You use a $30 dollar Dingle-Berry Hone ) DUDE !!! The cylinders are to BIG from the factory most of the time. ( I reinforce & replate them all ).

And its not front page news that large number of Big Bore Doo Motors have suffered multiple piston problems. So If you think for 1 second I am going to let you try and convince Polaris people that forged pistons are the answer to all the 800 PRO Motors you are sadly mistaken.

Leave it to the people - ( Or the " Search " )

Attention all Polaris people - Go to as many Ski Doo Forums as you can and search RKT Big Bores and do sum reading.

Then search Indy Specialty ( Every site you can find ) and you be the Judge on who knows what about pistons and why they fail.

I have never in my life seem someone who doesn't know when to quit.

Some people Build heads & some people Build Motors ( There is a difference )

Dan
 

indydan

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Kelsy,
Since we all are just after some actual answers here, how about one for you? What does your 858 kit dyno out to? Ok, I understand that true hp can be skewd by a dyno so rather than an actual number I think most all of us will accept a number that tells us how many more horses over stock with your kit rather than the final number. You also claim that your drop in kit makes hp over stock. Once again, How many horses would this be? Just the horses gained will suffice. Not the final reading on the dyno since this does indeed vary from machine to machine.

Many of us here would love to have the answer to these 2 simple answers that you no doubt have the sheets to backup your answer with.


Thank you
Ultra

I damn near missed this, and I could not resist.

It seems that there is a Hunger for more power out of the 800 small Block.

Heres a quick story>

#1 - Last fall I bought a brand new 2012 800 PRO RUSH
#2 - I took up north Bone stock with 96 studs and I got completely schooled by a 2012 Ski Doo fro A to Z. ( dead stop, Mid-range, wide open ) You name it I got wasted.
#3- Second trip I complete changed the clutch set-up, and I mean completely changed it. Stock clutching was OK, but the belt was hot and the RPM's were not consistent. After the change the RPM's were rock solid
and it was a completely different sled.
The results went as follows.

Stock - 1 mile WOT max MPH = 99mph for as long as I could hold it sometimes for more then 2 miles. ( 95 was the norm, 99 was perfect snow )

First clutching change - 1 Mile WOT max 110mph ( 105 was the norm, 110 was perfect snow. )

#4 - Thrid trip to Ash Trail - 3 New ski doos this time ( They came looking for me ) The guy from the first trip that schooled me pointed to a Different Doo and said thats the fast one. ( I handed him his a$$ ) on a forest road from start to finish with ( The first clutching change ) He did say he was catching me ( I wasn't looking back ). The next day I made the second clutching change and picked up 4 mph locked the MAX on 114mph...........Perfect snow conditions. Hard pack.

The next day the ski doos rode in a different group, as they say ( I'm just saying ) I will not answer any questions about clutching on this forum or any other forum so please do not ask. ( It far more then a helix & a set of weights. )

In the end with stock gearing and clutching only there is a solid 10 mph to be had on the RUSH.

My conclusion - The 800 small block needs no motor work to run with the new Cats & Doo's.... clutched correctly its right there or better.

If need want huge power out of this power plant it needs new cylinders or a turbo plain and simple. A Budget big bore contains the answer in the title.

As far as the clutching I mentioned,

It will be the only ( satisfaction guaranteed or your money back ) clutch kit ever offered. ( If it doesn't work send it back )

The Gains to RMK are not comparable in MPH but they measured on the hill to be equally as impressive.
( the most dependable improvement, with the most gain ever sold for the PRO ) Or your money back.

Dan
 
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mtbroncrider

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dan,

expect a clutch for a 13 PRO RMK from me this fall......have to get the sled first

After you did my 900 clutch last year, im a believer in your balance job at least....
 

SLDHVN

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Mar 7, 2008
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Some people Build heads & some people Build Motors ( There is a difference )
Dan

That is awesome^^^

I will have my newest Indy Specialty motor sometime here in the next few weeks. Of the 3 I have had before, they all got plenty of miles put on them and never needed a damn thing(they are still probably running around out there without an issue).:rockon:

Thanks Dan!
 
G

geo

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Dec 1, 2007
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Indy Dan; Poo 800 CFI originally was one of the first to crack 160 Dyno HP but we saw this was not sustainable lol.

Can your modification support that kind of HP with the warranty? Say I sent you a Engine with the SLP stage 4 kit installed. Would you do your very experienced thing to it and would you still provide the warranty with the obvious disclaimers for improper fuel or engine management.

PAR (1200psi), I ask the same of you. What kind of HP (dependable) will your crank-cylinder mod support?

What I really want is a 155 HP, 120 Ft Lb torque at 7400rpm. Do either of you build something close from the stock Poo 800 cases?
 

indydan

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Indy Dan; Poo 800 CFI originally was one of the first to crack 160 Dyno HP but we saw this was not sustainable lol.

Can your modification support that kind of HP with the warranty? Say I sent you a Engine with the SLP stage 4 kit installed. Would you do your very experienced thing to it and would you still provide the warranty with the obvious disclaimers for improper fuel or engine management.

PAR (1200psi), I ask the same of you. What kind of HP (dependable) will your crank-cylinder mod support?

What I really want is a 155 HP, 120 Ft Lb torque at 7400rpm. Do either of you build something close from the stock Poo 800 cases?

First - Thanks Andrew Johnson. you're.:first:

geo - It sounds like you need a 900 Polaris 80mm stroke Stock they were about 155hp @ 7400

You ask alot of questions to alot of people. Sometimes I think people think snowmobile motors are like New diesel pick-ups. ( Spend alittle money relative to the factory sticker price ) and BANG you have a dependable 10 to 15% power gain.

I am here to say that is not possible on the Polaris 800 Small Block.

Kelsey, I have answered all your questions about 5 years ago. ( On this very Forum ) do a search or ask people that have been on here that long, many will remember I wrote full pape on the problems this motor would have before it was ever released.

I said there was NO WAY that the small block could make or handle 160hp in stock form with the cylinder & head combo it was built with.

The motor is physically to small and it cannot remove enough heat from around the front of the motor ( I.E. The exhaust port ) I also said there is to much heat on the front of the piston.

Take a long hard look at any successful aftermarket cylinder and look how big the front is swelled up to increase waterflow. ( Suzuki is great at this )

Look back in time just alittle to 1994 Polaris 800 storm, Train wreck on pistons................Then in 1996 Polaris swelled up the front of the cylinder right above the exhaust port and removed the sleeve & Nicasil the cylinder and the piston life was over tripled. the 1996 could go thousands of miles farther and the pistons always looked better.

The 800 Storm had 3 cylinders, 3 carbs, and 3 pipes making about 145hp, Now we have a twin making close to that number.

If you big bored the OEM Storm cylinders to 900 you turned it into a pile of steaming dog poop.

But then if you big bore a OEM ZRT 800 Cat to 1000cc it ran like a swiss watch trouble free for years. Both 65mm stroke and the Polaris had a better rod ratio but yet the Polaris was a piston eater in 1994 & 95.

I will simplify this ( BTU's ) Britsh Thermal Unit

A question asked by many youngster over the years......" Dan how do you make a motor make power power ?"

Simple, I respond, " Increase its ability to burn fuel. "

A top Fuel car can burn over 5 gallons of fuel in under 4 seconds, Thats faster then you can empty a 5 gallon can with a 10 inch opening by tipping it upside down and The top fuel car can give you a head start and let you get it tipped upside down before he Hits the throttle.

When increasing a motors ability to burn fuel you have also increrased its ability to make power, and physics tells you have also increased its ability to build heat.

If you build heat you have to get rid if it.

The Longer Rod ( The better rod ratio ) Reduces the side load on the piston and that reduces heat on the front of the piston.

A Big Bore on the stock cylinder increases heat ( Where is it going to go )

A top fuel car doesn't even have a radiator, Nor does it have coolant.
Its got a Super Charger that puts so much air thru the motor it does not need coolant for the task at hand in the time allowed to complete the job to 300+mph>

And finally the answer many have wonder for years.

Why do OEM Stock Pistons in a 800 Polaris with a Turbo last so long and look so good ??

The Turbo increases the motors ability to burn fuel, It increases power, and most important !! It gets rid of the heat better then a stock motor because the basic nature of a 2 stroke pipe is not needed ( The signal that is sent back to the motor to hold the waiting charge in the cylinder until the exhaust port closes is no longer needed or applied ) the turbo rams the air thru the motor and out the pipe and the front of the piston stays cool.

I have attached 2 pictures of the Polaris Storm cylinders.

1 early version, and 1 1996 update cylinder.

Look at the exhaust area - This will show you what I am talking about. ( The view from the top speaks volumes ) Look at the MASSIVE Increase for water to get around the exhaust area.

OHHHHHHHHH!!! I Love their Chicken.

Dan

800 Storm cylinders 001.jpg 800 Storm cylinders 002.jpg
 
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R

RKT

Well-known member
Jul 19, 2001
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Preston, Idaho
www.2strokeheads.com
The Turbo increases the motors ability to burn fuel, It increases power, and most important !! It gets rid of the heat better then a stock motor because the basic nature of a 2 stroke pipe is not needed ( The signal that is sent back to the motor to hold the waiting charge in the cylinder until the exhaust port closes is no longer needed or applied ) the turbo rams the air thru the motor and out the pipe and the front of the piston stays cool.


Dan

Dan,

You have come on here and then decided to sling mud with dorrogatory comments that , IMO, are totally unprofessional and uncalled for... But if that is how you choose to respond to questions. So be it...

I have NEVER said anything negative about you or any of your products.. Yet, you choose to talk negative and make false accusations regarding me and my business (that you nothing about)

You Win!! I asked 2 simple questions and recieved no answers and an onslaught of negativity.. Again, totally uncalled for IMO..

I will continue to try and be positive and keep the negativity out of everything

for what it is worth.. the above highlighted red about the pipe effects of a turbo.. I will, disagree, respectfully disagree (a courtesey you will not show) If you remove the convergence cone (Stuffing pulse portion of the exhaust system) from the pipe on a 2 stroke turbo, the engine will make significantly less power and have runnability issues.. So, without getting into a discussion on this, I will politely disagree and leave it at that..

Good luck with your product and it is too bad that you feel the need to be negative towards others in the business.. I simply do not operate like that...I will choose to take the higher road with public forums and my business and products.. That speaks volumes IMO...
 
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indydan

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You started it. I hate this sh!t.

You posted your drop in kit & your big bore. then you followed that by saying there was no problems with anything other then the piston.

Your incorrect, The problem is heat. The motor is small and it puts out alot of power the piston can't take it.

You like to say you never do this you never do that.

Don't try to spin this on me.

You started this, I have been trying to stay away from thrashing you about all this for the last 4 weeks. But you keep coming at me.

So now were done. Glad its over.

Good Luck to you and your products also.

Dan
 

diamonddave

Chilly’s Mentor
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Dan,



I will continue to try and be positive and keep the negativity out of everything



...I will choose to take the higher road with public forums and my business and products.



Just in case you are not suffering from a split-personality disorder, when can the forum members expect to see these changes?
 
R

RKT

Well-known member
Jul 19, 2001
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www.2strokeheads.com
You started it. I hate this sh!t.

You posted your drop in kit & your big bore. then you followed that by saying there was no problems with anything other then the piston.

Never said that EVER... Again.. no need to post things that are simply untrue.

I said I am addressing an issue. (and I am). Not fixing ALL the issues associated with the engine.. Check it out.

Just offering a viable and affordable solution to one of the engine's shortcomings...

It is not stated anywhere where there are not other issues associated with that engine.. We both know that the engine is not perfect..

Check it out.. the website is public as are these forums.


You started this, I have been trying to stay away from thrashing you about all this for the last 4 weeks. But you keep coming at me.

I have NEVER come at you,, You entered My FYI threads on the Pro with negativity.. I have NEVER stated anything negative about you or your products on this forum.. EVER.. You can not say the same.
I Simply am offering a solution to problem.. nothing more.. and asking a few questions.



Dan


Hopefully, last post to clear up a few things.. Please see above..
 
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