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tunnel stiffeners...

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Norway

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Another vote for some more strength in the tunnel sides. My first trip on my 2011 I hit a rock beneath the fluff, not really doing any speed but it stopped me solid and sent me over the bars.

Only saw the bent A-arm first but down from the mountain we could see just where the boards end at the front and it bends up to the tunnel side, it had crumpled a little.

No biggie for me, just rode with it. BUT this just goes to show that on the PRO you have traded strength for weight and your tunnel sides might fold if your A-arm dont!

Have PAR tunnel sides to go on but will also put on some additional bracing. Thinking about the inside of the tunnel from the bulkhead and back to somewhere behind the front suspension bolt.

R
 

AKSNOWRIDER

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I will be making some brace kits starting Sept 9th(Monday) for anyone who wants some, I need to hear from you by PM before Monday morning if so..Due to some surgeries I cant promise at this time that I will be making any more of these this winter(my hope is I will be, but as of now I don't know)..hope everyone is ready for a great winter..Mike
 
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danduvall

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AKSNOWRIDER- those are sweet! Awesome job!

Here's a pic of mine I'm drawing up for the 144" sba's. 1 piece stiffeners / snow eliminators. I wish I had access to a scanner to scan my templates, instead of transferring all the measurements!

They still need some refinement!


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uploadfromtaptalk1378349169883.jpg
 
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danduvall

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AK-
on the dragon you did, with the red boards and tunnel.... how did you go about bending the tabs up for the running board boot grippers??

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AKSNOWRIDER

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AK-
on the dragon you did, with the red boards and tunnel.... how did you go about bending the tabs up for the running board boot grippers??

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you can make a jig from plywood or thick steel, with holes precisely cut where you need to bend the boards at(both a top and bottom that clamp the aluminum and hold it while you lightly heat and bend the cleats).using the right grade of aluminum(made for mild bending and annealed to allow better bending) will help....
 
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danduvall

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AK-

When u install your tunnel sides do you install your new skins over the factory solid rivets? Or do you drill them all out and re fasten through all your new pieces? uploadfromtaptalk1378425943884.jpg

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AKSNOWRIDER

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AK-

When u install your tunnel sides do you install your new skins over the factory solid rivets? Or do you drill them all out and re fasten through all your new pieces? View attachment 211474

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I have drilled them out, I don't anymore(it is a royal pain even with quality bits), now I just grind the heads flush and lay right over them, drilling new holes between them(their is a real possibility of bending/tearing the stock metal when trying to remove the factory rivets due to the fact they are shot in blind and due to the friction of install they actually fuse both panels together around the rivet) to attach the new pieces with...
 
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danduvall

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I have drilled them out, I don't anymore(it is a royal pain even with quality bits), now I just grind the heads flush and lay right over them, drilling new holes between them(their is a real possibility of bending/tearing the stock metal when trying to remove the factory rivets due to the fact they are shot in blind and due to the friction of install they actually fuse both panels together around the rivet) to attach the new pieces with...

You weren't kidding... I just pulled the stock tunnel braces off of my SBA. those rivets were a beotch, to drill out!

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COP-OUT

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Asksnowrider;
Are you selling this as kits or just for your own sleds. I would be interested in a set for a 13 Pro RMK w/163 track. It's a retro style. So I would get in powdered coated down here in Montana.
Thanks
 

AKSNOWRIDER

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cop out, I do sell them(further up shows them..anyway, am doing some right now so if you want some pm me..mike
 

AKSNOWRIDER

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You weren't kidding... I just pulled the stock tunnel braces off of my SBA. those rivets were a beotch, to drill out!

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LMAO..yep..they can try your patience for sure.. there isn't any really easy way to deal with them either( a rota-broach works excellent but smallest they make is 5/16" that I know of), that's why I started just grinding them flush and laying right over them..
 
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danduvall

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you can make a jig from plywood or thick steel, with holes precisely cut where you need to bend the boards at(both a top and bottom that clamp the aluminum and hold it while you lightly heat and bend the cleats).using the right grade of aluminum(made for mild bending and annealed to allow better bending) will help....

What grade and thickness do you make yours from??

Im thinking I'll go with 6061 t6 @ .090" thick for my sba boards

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AKSNOWRIDER

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I would use minimum 1/8" but 3/16" might be better/stronger..due to the bends needed, I would use most likely a 50 series(more bendable then 60 series)if you didn't bend the tunnel side piece on the boards and instead tigged it(tough to do as well due to warping) they a 60 series would be ok due to the minor bends needed, make sure to aneal all bend areas...
 
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danduvall

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Got this back from the laser today!

Gotta make a few cuts, test fit, and bend the cleats. Then I will be taking orders!!!

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uploadfromtaptalk1383344475863.jpg uploadfromtaptalk1383344514935.jpg uploadfromtaptalk1383344529208.jpg
 

Pokey

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This was money and time well spent. Just one tip, the serial number is not in the same spot on every sled. We had to modify both of our kits so that the serial number was visible.
photo.jpg
 
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