That would be my guess. If you have the four year warranty, maybe just leave it???? Why give them a reason, if you happen to have an issue.
Oil Pump Adjustment
- Thread starter die hard poo
- Start date
That would be my guess. If you have the four year warranty, maybe just leave it???? Why give them a reason, if you happen to have an issue.
A
I little paint? please, I'm sure that's not too hard to adjust if you had to and repaint it again with the same color paint 
T
When you say "adjustment screw" you are referring to the screw to sink your butterfly's right? Just checking?So I went and looked at the adjustment screw on my '12 Pro tonight,it does not look all that hard to access without taking anything other then the exhaust can off. It looks like a socket to loosen the nut and a short screw driver to turn the screw would do the trick. I noticed my lock nut is marked with yellow paint, I am guessing this is so they can tell if it has been tampered with for warranty? Would this void the engine warranty if they seen it was no longer lined up?
Here is a pic looking over the exhaust can, you can see the lock nut marked with yellow paint.
T
Mine had the yellow
paint on it also, the locking nut was tight enough to bend the tab when I tryed to break it loose. Had to hold the bracket (tab?) with some needle nose plyers to get it loose.
paint on it also, the locking nut was tight enough to bend the tab when I tryed to break it loose. Had to hold the bracket (tab?) with some needle nose plyers to get it loose.
So I went and looked at the adjustment screw on my '12 Pro tonight,it does not look all that hard to access without taking anything other then the exhaust can off. It looks like a socket to loosen the nut and a short screw driver to turn the screw would do the trick. I noticed my lock nut is marked with yellow paint, I am guessing this is so they can tell if it has been tampered with for warranty? Would this void the engine warranty if they seen it was no longer lined up?
Here is a pic looking over the exhaust can, you can see the lock nut marked with yellow paint.
So to adjust you loosen the nut and turn in that screw running in the middle of the nut? And its is righty tighty to turn it up?
Cuz this thread says to adjust the adjuster screw on the gas tank side of the throttle bodies http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=275294&highlight=turning+oil+pump&page=2
and the original post mentions the adjustment screw on the gas tank side of the throttle bodies.. can anyone clarify
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G
It IS on the gas tank side of the throttle bodies but accessible from behind the can. And yes, turning clockwise turns up the oil. FWIW mine did not have the yellow paint (or it came off when I adjusted her
); dealer isn't gonna penalize you for using MORE oil. They TOLD me to turn it up because of skirt issues last year. My guess is the paint is there for easy identification of the adjuster screw vs the synchronize screw.Have FUN!
G MAN
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The adjuster scew is for the oil while the synchronize screw is for the TB's?
So I went and looked at the adjustment screw on my '12 Pro tonight,it does not look all that hard to access without taking anything other then the exhaust can off. It looks like a socket to loosen the nut and a short screw driver to turn the screw would do the trick. I noticed my lock nut is marked with yellow paint, I am guessing this is so they can tell if it has been tampered with for warranty? Would this void the engine warranty if they seen it was no longer lined up?
Here is a pic looking over the exhaust can, you can see the lock nut marked with yellow paint.
Thanks Sledmax!! I wasnt looking forward to tearing all that stuff off just to adjust this thing.:face-icon-small-con Also is everybody going 3 turns? I think I might start at one and see how its doing.
I have not ridden it with three turns in, (other than one heat cycle on the trailer) that was just to get mine slightly above the mark as a starting point. You may be right that I have to back off, but we shall see.
As G Man indicated, three turns may be too much. I think it will be more dependant on your machines oil usage, and to try and calculate an accurate ratio and shoot for what you want. All I observed was that mine came from the factory below the scribe mark, and I would rather start with too much oil and back off, than have too little oil to start with.
Going to get mine broken in first, run a few tanks of gas through it then take some manual readings on usage to see where I'm at..
What is target ratio to shoot for? 32-1? 40-1?
G.
What is target ratio to shoot for? 32-1? 40-1?
G.
G
32:1 is what I'm shooting for; any more and I've had real probs with plug fouling tho the new copper core plugs in the '12's are supposed to help with that too.
Have FUN!
G MAN
How would Polaris know if you adjusted it or maybe it was the dealer that did when they did the PDI. One thing to remember is you have to make sure your throttle cable freeplay is set correctly before you adjust anything. If not it could screw up the reading your getting when looking at the scribe mark.
The dealors aren't going to mess with it , than they'd be liable . I would be very weary about messing with it while it's under warranty. Why would they put a blob of marking paint for inspection , if it was ,wouldn't it just be a slash mark ? or is it also a very nasty lock tight that is used on certain torque applications. Seen it on GM brake rotor bolts and on Doo engines .
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the paint is for checking bolt torque out of the factory, its quality control
Anyone have a update on oil usage as referenced to the location of the scribe mark.
Just so we're clear
Hullo, my name is Erik and I'm uh, not that smart....
I B confused as to which screw is the correct oil adjustment screw.
Is the attached comparison photo correct or is it backwards?
Hullo, my name is Erik and I'm uh, not that smart....
I B confused as to which screw is the correct oil adjustment screw.
Is the attached comparison photo correct or is it backwards?
Pro oil pump adjustment
I think there is some confusing info between a couple of threads on this topic. I've read that to adjust this you need a 10mm wrench for the locknut and an ALLEN wrench for the allen set screw. The photos show a slotted screw. Then, there are conflicting photos raising the question of whether what is shown is for throttle body syncronization or for oil pump adjustment. Could it be that the 2011 had an allen screw and the 2012 had a slotted one? Before everyone goes in and starts turning everything the wrong way, someone should clear this up.:noidea:
I think there is some confusing info between a couple of threads on this topic. I've read that to adjust this you need a 10mm wrench for the locknut and an ALLEN wrench for the allen set screw. The photos show a slotted screw. Then, there are conflicting photos raising the question of whether what is shown is for throttle body syncronization or for oil pump adjustment. Could it be that the 2011 had an allen screw and the 2012 had a slotted one? Before everyone goes in and starts turning everything the wrong way, someone should clear this up.:noidea:
2x I AGREE
