considering turbo

tried running the AEM true boost guage controller. Had issues with it, the low boost levels we run and the moisture caused problems. As for the oil pump. Twisted is using the cat injection pump to lube the turbo, he has had great success. I have not personanlly tried it, but have thought about it.

When you do get your sled together make sure before you take any trips that the drive train is built solid.

$ 150 - avids dual path driveshaft (mine wrinkled under one of the stock drivers)

$ 260 - avid 3" pitch drivers (stock ones will spin on the driveshaft)

$ 800 - 2.5 or 3" camo extreme (fully clipped)

$ 135 - stiff secondary clutch spring to hold the belt + install tool

$ 160 - steeper secondary helix than stock

$ 70 - high torque secondary rollers

$ 220 - secondary clutch brace

$ 230 - hyvo gears and chain with large top sprocket (approx 2:1 ratio) [13w and 15w rip apart]

$2000- rear skid with more resistance than stock and more weight transfer control


$4025

Nothing on this list is non-essential (ask me how I know). Not one of the above areas should be neglected as I have had a lot of these parts flying apart and tweaking under load. High HP skidoos need quite a few stock parts replaced because they will fail at high power. Take my advice if you are doing a build. It is better to strengthen the sled before the breakage than after. You will get more riding with less wrenching and downtime. Don't leave the garage without first making sure your sled has everything on this list. Then it will stay in one piece once you get your turbo setup running smoothly as well.

There are at least 2 places you can get bottom hyvo sprockets for the Xp now

Scrat on here used a team jackshaft and posted pics of the carnage with a turbo - it broke in half
That shaft has problems with lots of torque.

The stock jackshaft will hold if you want to run big power
I heard that team made a few heavy duty ones but only a small number and there may not be anymore of the stronger shafts for sale now

I can post up pics of my driveshaft. It twisted into a spiral under the driver on the torque/chain side.

Racers Edge sells through others as far as I can tell. But you can do a search and find companies in the US and Canada that sell that skid.

one thing to consider if your thinking about porting. Most cyl repair shops won't do exhanges with ported or oversize cyl so when you squeek it your downtime will be longer. I don't think on a turboed engine it will make a big enough difference. If this is your only sled you'll miss out on more sledding waiting for your ported cyl to be recond. I have a t-m8 and a stock rev. Having a backup sled is a must as far as I'm concerned. One very good point made by one of the other posters, you may have the patience to deal with all the problems your going to run into dialing the sled in, but will your sledding buddies!

taylorbok said:

back to the ported cylinders, I blew up my machine running stock (well not stock but not turboed) this past weekend and I can get a set of ported cylinders from a buddy faster than I can get a set of stock cylinders. not in a big hurry to go riding again this year I got my fair share in but just wanna get started on this turbo build. If I do the ported cylinders is it going to be detrimental or it just wont make a difference.

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Have you ever built a turbo kit before?

It is not that bad to build one for a 2 smoke but it is a never-ending learning curve.

If it is a 800 a 2876 is the trend now, I have not tested any 76mm compresors thay just became avalable this year. Make sure you get the .86 A/R Turbine housing or you going to have problems.

I would stayaway from ported jugs unless someone who knew what thay were doing set the port timing up for a turbo. Running to much port timing on a turbo will kill the power and guzzel fuel.

Example.... Port timing on a 1000 cat .020 off the base and .025 deeper in the squish band I forget what the blow down numbers are I think 195-117, I can work them out later.

If any one else has turbo porting specs I would love to here them

Good luck and please post some pics

if your dedicated, take your time and ask for a lot of help, it will be an awsome kit and you can put something together that will be one of a kind. if you get into it and start just guessing and going wild with things it might not work that great for you.. dont ask me how i know!!

they are really not that hard to setup if you spend the tim to know and learn how it all works, and its rather satisfying to have something you built yourself when its ripping. and considering the turbo xp isnt exactly the most common you have a good chance of building something that nobody else even has anything close to. but im biased, i would never buy anything. if you do it, reread this 100 times, read the carb turbo tuning thread over and over. read any trouble thread you can and then start asking questions.

Your alright, you will have a blast and the turbo selection is very good...

When I tried my first 2876 I was so friggin stoked vs the 71... the 71 is awsome don't get me wrong, the 76 is that much more responsive from 2800 rpm up..

you would get the same feel and even better response from a forced perf 71 if they make them,, not sure on them thar littel ones !:face-icon-small-ton:face-icon-small-ton

the better flowing wheel of the 71 would be better and lighter than the std 76..

Just thoughts,, its your ball and sounds like it will be a damn good one..


Gus:boxing:

Mine is on a 03 1/2 summit rev 159. Its all custom including the intercooler,custom frame work to fit the intercooler. I used a mitsubishi turbo, greddy bov, and a crank driven high pressure oil pump, that is the only down side to a journal bearing turbo. It has amazing throttle response. A friend had a 3076 on his rev, it had tons of lag but ran good on top end. I ride from 5-10,000 ft and I use a mxz head. I run 10# of boost and use 100ll av gas. There was a steep learning curve for me on jetting and clutching but its worth the power! Good luck on your build.

nope, tubing is measure in OD so get the same size couplers as the charge tube material.

and personally, 2" is a little small for these size of turbos. the turbo is 2" outlet, just get a step up adapter and then run 2.25" charge tube, or go 2.5" if you wanna get some air really moving.. and have space.

taylorbok said:

I think I will build it in the end that way its my way, I have read a lot and learnt even more since I started this thread. I just hope it all goes well. I will prob start ordering parts soon.

does any one have the link to the pics of badass1000 sled?

Click to expand...

I dont mean to stir the pot, (seriously, I dont') but if it is acceptable to you to go thru all the gyrations, expense and unknowns of going turbo to the tune of about what ........... $7500???, and then have someone with a SHR 860 blow past you that cost them oh, $2500 ....... then go for it, and my sincere best wishs for you. Just be prepared for this eventuality. The only reason I post this here, is that I detest us snowmobilers spending good money (ALOT of money) and then have an inferior product on the mountain. Good luck to you.

SHR 860

I will make this as objective and unbiased as possible. I can respect Idaho Slims post. I have owned a SHR 860 and Big John builds a very solid kit tha is a very consistent performer. I now own a turboed xp...same chassis as the 860. The turbo has been a labor of love as there was no one out there that had refined a kit for the XP at the time( 3 years ago ). The concept of a turbo kit utlizing carbs is a fairly straight forward design. It is all the little things surrounding the kit that will make it perfom the way it should. Ie clutching, fuel pressure and blow off signals, charge tube sizing, cold air intake, functioning exhaust valves, did I say clutching.

With all this being said at the end of the day it is physics. 170 hp is 170 hp....230 hp is 230 hp ( depending on boost levels) and that doesnt take into consideration corrections for both NA and boosted applications as you rise in elevation. 230 un-rideable ponies, ie ...no bottom end ( improper clutching, jetting, signal references, etc) is no fun and will were you out....and not to mention the 860 will spank you for the first 100 yds. If you have a rideable turbo set-up..ie proper fueling, signal references, clutching, etc you will have a system that works together in and out of boost and it will be ridiculous.

So, unless you have some mad tuning skills from clutching all the way to fueling and where to pull signals,making your own turbo kit and having it run properly will be a challenge.

If you want a turbo for your xp,and you ride high elevations,i would not hesitate to call Rick at peak power sports in Aurora, CO. He is a wealth of knowledge, builds an affordable kit, and will more than likely also sell you components if you choose to make your own. I havent worked with turbo boyz but have a friend that is also a snowester and has had good luck with them. He also ran a big bore prior to his turbo kit and would second my opinion.

If you ride low elevation and/or live out east Gus Bohne would be a good choice. He also is a wealth of knowledge when it comes to 2 stroke carbed turbos.

If you want a pull the rope very consistent solid performer that will out perform most sleds on the hill Big Johns 860 will definately put a smile on your face. John is also a wealth of knowledge when it comes to clutching weather it is NA or turboed.

I hope i dont offend anyone with this post as i have tried to relay my experiences and opinion for what its worth.

Good luck