Whats the preferred flyweight?

What kind of elevation swings are you talking? For smaller changes (2g weight swaps) i just do different springs with the same start weight. quick and easy to do for different zones.

Wheel House Motorsports said:

What kind of elevation swings are you talking? For smaller changes (2g weight swaps) i just do different springs with the same start weight. quick and easy to do for different zones.

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Well that makes no sense. Why change a $40 spring when you can change $100 weights? This is sarcasm. Great idea. I don't know why guys don't do this.

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kanedog said:

Well that makes no sense. Why change a $40 spring when you can change $100 weights? This is sarcasm. Great idea. I don't know why guys don't do this.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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Also not a very big fan of how many of the adjustable weights work. You make huge swings in mass distribution when adjusting weight so it is going to cause big changes in shift characteristics. Most folks probably don't notice much of a difference but it does affect a lot more then just final RPM.

Also hopefully gets guys to change out primary springs more often (which IMO should be thrown away after ~500 miles)

Having tried a LOT of different weights over the years, the 10 series polaris actually work pretty well, I like the MTX SLP ones too. Plus you can pick up 10 series takeouts on ebay or the swap section for pretty low cost. I do the spring deal as well BTW :face-icon-small-coo

srt20 said:

8,000ft up to 11000ft

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Im not exactly sure if those are just your riding zones but you should be able to handle that window fairly well with just one clutch setup. or a minor spring change if you want.

If your main riding is 8k and then 11k then I would say 10-62's then just go to the Venom Bright yellow primary spring (120/340) to handle the higher elevation.
Or shoot the gap with the Pro rmk or venom green spring (140-330) and might be a hair high on RPM at 8k and just about dialed at 11k.

Basically, you really shouldnt need to change between those zones unless your insanely anal about your RPM in which case air temps will probably play just as much a factor as riding elevation.

After trying a few different sets of adjustable weights I went back to Polaris series 10. You just cant match the profile and mass distribution with the adjustable weights. You dont end up with the same overall performance.

So now I have 10-58 through 10-70 weights and swap out as needed.

So given your scenario, the SLP magnum force adjustable are going to be hard to beat. This way you can adjust pretty damn easy on the hill if you find yourself riding higher or lower. Ive run this style of weight before. My only recommendation is if your going to pack the set screw kit put some foam in it and make sure it cant move around at all, they will thrash themselves so hard and the plastic cases get super brittle in the cold. and then your setscrews end up everywhere.... ask me how i know.

The 60.7g empty weight should be about perfect for your peak elevation and then throw in 1 or 2 set screws depending on how low you drop for riding.

https://www.startinglineproducts.com/slp-magnum-forcetm-clutch-weight-for-polaris.html

Hey guys,

Thought I might jump in to add a little extra info on a new product you may not be aware of that will probably be a better choice for SRT20.

We now have a set of the Magnum Force Weights that are a little lighter for higher elevation. The base weight is 57 grams and it goes as high as 67 grams fully loaded. It is better for the higher elevations because it offers a lighter empty spec and also a wider swing from empty to fully loaded.

The Part# is 40-154, and they are available immediately:
Magnum Force Weights

-SLP

It is great to see a dealer and a manufacturer giving advise to a fellow rider.
This is what makes this web site so good.

Cudos to SLP as well as Wheel House for the info and set up!!!

Fyi you can just substitute longer 5/16-18 setscrews to make a light set of magnum force weights heavy enough.

Also a ziploc bag holds the setscrews without any rattling. ?

What do you recommend SLP
I hava a 163 axys 850 with a slp can on it.
I ride at 5500 to 6500 ft elevation
I got your magnun adjustable ramp.
What the best spring and weight set up ?
I try a 70,4 g and a blue pink spring . It runs great 8150 rpm
Do you think we can tune that better ??

“Setting the World’s Performance Standards”
743 East Iona Road, Idaho Falls, ID 83401, (208) 529-0244 Fax (208) 529-9000
Clutching for 2019 Polaris 850 RMK
Important: The following clutching information has been thoroughly tested and is highly recommended for proper performance and reliability. Primary weights, drive spring and driven spring must be changed according to the chart if applicable for your elevation. Running any combination other than recommended may cause poor, inconsistent performance.
Altitude (feet)
Drive Clutch
Stock TEAM TSS-04 Driven Clutch
Clutch Spring
Shift Weight
Clutch Spring
Driven Helix
0-3000’ (0-900m)
SLP Blue / Yellow SLP# 40-70
Magnum Force
Black (Stock)
42 Straight (Stock)
SLP# 40-151 (65g) 3 Set Screws
1 Lock Set Total: 69.2g
3-6000’ (900-1525m)
SLP Blue / Pink SLP# 40-76
SLP# 40-150 (60.7g) 4 Set Screws
1 Lock Set Total: 66.1g
Black (Stock)
42 Straight (Stock)
6-8000’ (1525-2743m)
SLP Blue / Pink SLP# 40-76
SLP Part# 40-150 (60.7g) 2 Set Screw
1 Lock Set
Total: 64.9g
Black (Stock)
42 Straight (Stock)
8-10,000’ (2743-3048m)
SLP Blue / Pink SLP# 40-76
SLP# 40-150 (60.7g) 1 Set Screw
1 Lock Set Total: 62.5g
Black (Stock)
42 Straight (Stock)
10,000’-12,000’ (3048-3658m)
SLP Blue / Pink SLP# 40-76
SLP# 40-150 (60.7g) Empty
Total: 60.7g
Black (Stock)
42 Straight (Stock)
Note: Test Sled was a 2019 Polaris 850 Patriot 163” 2.6” Runnig RPM:8200-8300
Starting Line Products • 743 Iona Rd. Idaho Falls, ID 83401 • Sales (208)529-0244 • Tech (208)524-3397 Fax (208)529-9000 • web: www.startinglineproducts.com • e-mail: slp@slp.cc
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“Setting the World’s Performance Standards”
743 East Iona Road, Idaho Falls, ID 83401, (208) 529-0244 Fax (208) 529-9000
Clutch Kit Installation Instructions
for Polaris Snowmobiles with TSS-04, Tied and TSS-98 Clutches
Clutch Removal
A-1: Lock the park brake.
A-2: Removal the left side pannel.
A-3: Locate the L-wrench in the tool kit. Install the wrench into the open threaded hole in the outer sheave of the secondary clutch.
A-4: Rotate the driven clutch in the forward (counter clockwise) direction 1/4 turn to disengage the rollers from the reverse notch in the helix. Then rotate the wrench clockwise until the sheaves are separated enough to remove the belt. Mark drive belt direction of rotation. (Belt is normally positioned so that the part number can easily be read) Remove the belt from the sled.
Step 6: Remove secondary clutch retaining bolt.
Step 7: Slide secondary clutch off splined shaft and remove from the sled.
Step 8: Remove primary clutch retaining bolt. A clutch holding tool (SLP #20-202) is recommended to hold the primary clutch stationary.
Step 9: Thread the primary clutch puller (SLP #20-136) into the center of the primary clutch. Hold the primary clutch using a clutch holding tool (SLP #20-202) and tighten the clutch puller with a breaker bar until the clutch disengages from the tapered shaft. Remove clutch from sled and remove clutch puller from clutch.
Hint: A small amount of grease on the clutch puller threads and end that pushes on the crankshaft will help in the primary clutch removal process.

Primary Clutch Disassembly / Assembly
B-1: Mark the cap, spider, movable sheave and stationary sheave in relation to each other on the primary clutch. (Refer to illustration #1)
B-2: Compress with a clutch press tool (SLP #20-222) and loos- en the six cap bolts until the cap can be removed from the clutch and set aside.
Illustration #1
B-3: Remove stock primary spring. This spring will not be re- used.
B-4: Remove pins holding weights in the primary clutch.
B-5: Remove weights from clutch. These stock weights will not
be reused.
Mark clutch.
B-6: Check movement of cap and movable sheave for sticky spots which could be caused from a bad bushing. Check rollers visually and by feel to make sure they roll freely and do not show any wear. Check the clutch sheaves for excessive wear and replace clutch if hairline cracks are found. Special- ized clutch rebuild tools and replacement parts are available from SLP or clutches can be sent directly to SLP for clutch rebuild services. Inquire for more information.
B-7: Check weight pins for wear before installation. Pins should be straight and smooth from shoul-
dered head to threads. If wear is found, discard pins and replace pins and lock nuts (SLP# 40-437).
B-8: Install Magnum Force weights into clutch and tighten weight pins with self-locking nuts and torque to 20 in/lbs (2 Nm). (Refer to illustration #2 for proper weight pin orientation)
B-9: Using the provided SLP setup sheet, install recommended tuning set screws into the Magnum Force weights. Make sure to screw each set screw all the way to the tip of the weight until it stops at the end of the threads. When installing set screws in the Magnum Force weights, always install a lock set after all recom- mended set screws are in place.
B-10: Install SLP primary spring.
B-11: Line up marks made on Step 10. Compress cap to movable sheave and start all six cap bolts.
In a star pattern, tighten each bolt a little at a time until the cap is seated against the movable sheave of the clutch. Torque cap bolts evenly to 100 in/lbs. (12 Nm).
Illustration #2
Install weight pin with the nut on the LEFT side of the clutch.
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Secondary Clutch Disassembly/Assembly
C-1: Remove the four T25 torx head screws that hold the helix into the secondary clutch. Remove the helix.
Spring Removal:
C-2: With the helix removed draw a line across the roller hub and vertically up the center shaft. (refer
to Illustrations #3 & #4)
C-3: Using the sping compression tool (SLP #20-222) to hold pressure down onto the roller hub. Using a set of retaining ring pliers, unclip the c clip holding the roller hub down.
C-4: Slowly decompress the compression tool and roller hub. Once the spring and roller hub are removed. mark the the double splines with a silver sharpie.
Illustration #3
C-5: Install secondary spring. Using a spring compression tool (SLP #20-222) Compress the spider and spring then reinstall the c clip that was removed in C-2.
Note: A Delrin washer is recommended.
C-6: Before installing the helix, rotate the roller hub so that it lines up with the X on the driven clutch. Then install helix, make sure to line up the angle you are going to use on the helix with the inside rollers.
C-7: Re-install the four T25 torx head screws and torque to 8-12 ft/lbs (10.9-16.3 Nm).
Illustration #4
Mark the location of the double spline.
Clutch Installation
D-1: Use brake clean and a clean rag to clean the tapered shaft on the sled and the tapered mating surface of the primary clutch.
Important Note: Remove any glazing on the clutch sheaves using a red scotch bright pad. Clean the sheaves of both clutches with dish soap and hot water. Scrub the belt using dish soap and hot water. Then rinse the belt and sheaves throughly with hot water. Let completely dry before installation.
D-2: Install primary clutch onto the tapered shaft of the sled. Hold the primary clutch using a clutch holding tool (SLP #20-202) and torque the primary clutch retaining bolt to 80 ft/lbs (130 Nm). Once this is done, loosen the retaining bolt and torque the bolt once more to 80 ft/lbs (130 Nm).
D-3: Install the secondary clutch on the splined shaft of the sled making sure the clutch is completely seated on the shaft. Torque the retaining bolt to 18 ft/lbs (54 Nm).
Hint: Having the park brake on will help with aligning the splines.
D-4: Install the belt. (SLP recommends using the OEM Polaris Belt for proper operation)
Starting Line Products • 743 Iona Rd. Idaho Falls, ID 83401 • Sales (208)529-0244 • Tech (208)524-3397
Fax (208)529-9000 • web: www.startinglineproducts.com • e-mail: slp@slp.cc 4
 

“Setting the World’s Performance Standards”
743 East Iona Road, Idaho Falls, ID 83401, (208) 529-0244 Fax (208) 529-9000
Recommended Tools
20-202
20-136 20-222
Tools Recommended by SLP for Clutch Kit Installation:
#20-222 Clutch Compression Tool #20-136 Primary Clutch Puller #20-202 Clutch Holding Tool
Important Tuning Note:
Due to the variance from one vehicle to another, the peak running RPM may vary. For example, one engine can be slightly stronger than another, the vehicle weight can vary, track length, lug hiegth, con- ditions it is used in as well as altitude and temperature. Check your full throttle running RPM. When correct it will be within the minimum and maximum RPM recommendation on these instructions. If RPM is too high it can be reduced by adding more weight to the cam arms and if RPM is too low, weight can be removed. The great feature of the adjustable weights is that you can tune them for the perfect RPM for your vehicle and get the most performance.
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