MTNTK "BLOW HOLE"...Active Ventilation VS Passive Venting

mountainhorse · Nov 29, 2012

Charlie... If the lights and handwarmers acted up... then he WAS connected to the lighting/charging relay... and not the red-white wire via the red circuit that powers up ECU/pump/injectors etc.

If the stick (locked rotor) caused those cirucuits to act up... I'd hate to see what it would do to the ECU and it's separate regulator.

Makes me even more confident that it should never be plugged into the the red/white wire circuit...

Thanks for the post.

pura vida · Nov 29, 2012

and another reason to have an on/off switch.

pv

Matte Murder · Nov 29, 2012

It would be great if they had a good kit with an on/off switch and a fused connector with a real simple hook up to the battery. The on/off switch could be right in the aluminum screen part to make it simple. 2 cents. The other thing that would be sick is a goggle bag connected to the outlet somehow. Warm dry goggles are so nice in our wet Washington winter.

sum8silverado · Dec 4, 2012

pura vida · Dec 4, 2012

sum8silverado said:
Mountainhorse, I don't know who you are from Adam but it seems by seeing all your posts on here all you like to do is stir up the pot. I for one think what MT is doing is awesome!! Thinking outside the the box for a change of everyone else. Hopefully you find a job so you have less time on here to "nitpick" everyone and everything up. Keep up the good work MT!!!!!

HAHA! so can we all agree to have this listed as the most ignorant post ever?? i love itl

small piece of advise to mr. sum8, you might want to do just a little more research before making post similar to the one above...

pv

mountainhorse · Dec 4, 2012

sum8silverado,

I can see where you are coming from if you just jumped into the thread.

I think this is a great idea.. I also believe that PMS and MTNTK make high quality products.

My post was only about the electric source which is grossly misunderstood on the Polaris DC-CFI-2 systems in the PRO-RIDE chassis.

I meant it in a helpful way, but may have communicated that in a poor way.

Thank you for the heads up!

.

rmscustom · Dec 4, 2012

"Better yet... No need to get a rectifier... run it, through a 3 amp fuse tapped into the red/dark-green wire at the electric start harness connector if you are not using the electric start."

I ordered a blowhole. I'm assuming the electric start harness is the one with the blue cap on by the airbox?

av8er · Dec 4, 2012

looks awesome

do you have something like this for Arctic cat M series- very interested in keeping the clutches cool on my RG turbo

Hairdryr · Oct 29, 2013

Nice idea. They need to offer them in black also.

Zbroz Racing · Oct 29, 2013

Blow hole review

We ran one all last season on our pro RMK and loved the way it preformed. I honestly can't say how it works on a Cat yet but do know the location and kit for the Pro is solid. Ryan rode that sled all season and he has serious long legs bashing the vents and fan area without so much as a hick up. Many times on our best deep powder days riding I would compare temps on his machine to mine and it was impressive. Warm clutches but never hot to the touch like the year before. I plan to install one on our XP and my Cat ASAP for this season.
I will also be selling these kits after testing them for a season and having zero complaints or issues. Just my 2 cents.
:light:I also have ran a fan system on my KTM 2 stroke 2 wheeler that helps a lot and can say this fan system moves WAY more air than those, I wasn't sold by the smoke screen demo but after seeing one run all season I'm a believer.

idahosjg · Oct 29, 2013

hole

What amp's doe's this pull? thanks

PMSPOLARIS · Oct 29, 2013

MTNTK'S blow hole

idahosjg said:
What amp's doe's this pull? thanks

So start up it takes 1.8 then it goes to 1 amp.

mountainhorse · Oct 29, 2013

What is "locked rotor" amp draw on the motor?

IE. What is the draw if you hold the fan from turning (locking the rotor)

Iceman56 · Oct 30, 2013

I want a fan on both sides for us guys with turbos that make all that heat on the right side with the exhaust and turbo and get rid of it, also keeping it off the belt drive.

Come on MTNTK make it happen! Doesn't have to be standard make the Right side an option

M7SLEDHEAD · Oct 30, 2013

Blow Hole

MH-I'm going to start installing this tonight. Would you have a picture of what you are talking about below that I marked in red? I do not have electric start on my sled.

mountainhorse said:
What is the locked-rotor amp draw on this? (locked rotor = stick a screwdriver in the fan and stop the fan from turning)

Why no fuse in the system?

In your instructions you say:
That DC POWER plug is NOT fused and DOES draw from the same regulator that feeds the ECU... so, in fact, you ARE plugging into the ECU power following the MTNTK directions.

I HIGHLY recommend that anyone with the blowhole use the optional rectifier setup available from MTNTK... and run that from the yellow AC power connector

OR

Better yet... No need to get a rectifier... run it, through a 3 amp fuse tapped into the red/dark-green wire at the electric start harness connector if you are not using the electric start.

If you have electric start... run it from the battery, through a fuse and then into a relay triggered by the red/white wire (chassis relay power)... That will then only turn on the fan when the sled is running.

The reason NOT to run from the DC POWER plug OR ACCESSORY plug in the hood is to limit the load on the ECU voltage regulator.

If something goes wrong with the motor on the Blow-Hole... then you are not putting the voltage regulator that supplies the ECU/Injectors/fuel pump "Vitals" at risk.

IMO, I don't like to run any accessory off of the separate voltage regulator that is supplying the ECU with power.

ALWAYS use a fuse with any accessory hooked up to the sled...ANY!

Nice product... trying to be helpful.

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MTNTK "BLOW HOLE"...Active Ventilation VS Passive Venting

mountainhorse

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pura vida

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Matte Murder

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