* New Release * Long Rod Torque Master 5 Dragon Motor

indydan · Feb 29, 2012

5 Year Top to Bottom Warranty

* ( Long Rod Torque Master 5 ) *

Well its finally here & ready for 2012/2013.

After years of studying the failures of the 08,09, & 2010 Dragon Motors. All
The design problems have been addressed.

Nick Named - The LR-TM5 Dragon Motor for all 2008,09,10 Dragons.
*( Long Rod Torque Master 5 ) *
*( There will Also be a LR-TM5 2011 Thru 2013 available ) * Being Polaris as not yet address the rod ratio problem. And their extended warranty is covered by an outside insurance company.......Seems they don't even have confidence in their new CFI2 Motors either. Try and find ( Extend FACTORY Warranty ) Polaris covers a new sled for 1 year. Just think how many 2012's their will be out there with zero miles and zero factory warranty.

The Motor is fully assembled, Case, Crank, Pistons, Cylinder, & Head.
You just add your ignition & fuel system.

It has a Top To Bottom 5 Year warranty, and almost everything is under warranty....Pistons include. Unless they are melted from a lean condition, or impacted by the exhust valve.

Price - $4500.00 Stock Compression ratio.

6000 Ft Plus High Elevation $4850.00

Polaris dealers Welcome, ( And Dealer Pricing Available )

This Motor requires a Core return Motor. - Case, Crankshaft, Cylinder, Head, Head cover & all bolts required for assembly.

Cylinder Core Requirements - It does NOT matter if the lower cylinder sleeve extensions are broke, But cylinder must not have any other external damage, Cylinder Plating can be trashed it doesn't matter.

Crankshaft Core Requirement - Mag-end & center pin must be in perfect condition. ( Bad Rods, Woren & broken PTO-end does NOT matter. )

Head Core Requirements - Undamaged ( No dings )

Crankcase Core Requirements - Good bearing bores & No cracks or holes.

Dan

Angermangement890 · Feb 29, 2012

FINALLY!!!!!!

crashnbash · Feb 29, 2012

It sounds like your using longer rods on the crank, but are the pistons special also? What parts will have to be purchased from you and what parts can be obtained from a dealer if an engine failure after your warranty expires?

indydan · Feb 29, 2012

crashnbash said:
It sounds like your using longer rods on the crank, but are the pistons special also? What parts will have to be purchased from you and what parts can be obtained from a dealer if an engine failure after your warranty expires?

FINALLY !!!! LOL!!! Yes, Rome wasn't built in a day for Heavens sake. !!

Crashnburn - Good question.

Yes I am using longer rods. Every part used can be bought from a Polaris dealer except the connecting rods & the cylinder spacer.

Also note - All of the LR-TM5's are built from 2010 Base cylinders & then they are modified for added strength & then replated and size to my specs.

If someone wants to send in a running 2008, 09 and have their own motor built the same exact way its a $1000 less. with 3 year warranty.

I am also pricing out a upgade kit - That will for a running motor with a good crank. Kit will include 2 Rod Kits, crank work, cylinder space & gaskets, 2 new pistons. It will be offerer with cylinder sleeve reinforcements or without depending on what the customer wants.

The rod ratio is so bad on these motors that the tops of the connecting rods turn blue from side load presure. They are the only Polaris motors I have ever seen this happen to. ( This is why they are hard on pistons & cylinder sleeve extentions. )

Dan
If people are looking for a less costly option

locknload · Feb 29, 2012

So are the hp and torque #s the same as far as clutching and mapping is concerned? What kind of turn around time could I expect if I sent you my engine. Thanks

indydan · Feb 29, 2012

locknload said:
So are the hp and torque #s the same as far as clutching and mapping is concerned? What kind of turn around time could I expect if I sent you my engine. Thanks

Hello, There is not a performance increase. all clutching & mapping is stock.

This all about long gevity, Turn around 1 to 2 weeks max.

Dan

Spaarky · Feb 29, 2012

oh crap, thought this was going to be more info on the Outlaw motors..... :Cry:

5 years thats a longer warratny than on a Ford Focus. Everyone has always said you werent completely there, but holy crap you must be snorting a little too much 2 stroke oil. 5 years is freakin nuts!!!!!!!

augerin · Feb 29, 2012

Figured you would eventually chime in with a solid fix. Thinking the pro's are right around the corner to. I sure hope i am wrong.

diamonddave · Mar 1, 2012

Very cool stuff. Can you share whether you are using cast or forged pistons and what brand (maybe)???

Would the motor be taller overall than the typical shim type fix kit's we see? Being that you are using a shim and a longer rod (??) Or is the shim only compensating for the longer rod and not the piston also?

Thanks again for the clutch washers.

indydan · Mar 1, 2012

Outlaw Addict said:
oh crap, thought this was going to be more info on the Outlaw motors..... :Cry:

5 years thats a longer warratny than on a Ford Focus. Everyone has always said you werent completely there, but holy crap you must be snorting a little too much 2 stroke oil. 5 years is freakin nuts!!!!!!!

Justin, You crack me up !!! I think you are snortin to much outlaw juice !!
Remain calm. I'm pluggin away.

Your welcome for the washers DiamondDave.

As for cylinder spacing the it is to compensate for rod length only & is set up to run oem cast pistons.

Auger, The pros are going to suffer from the same side loading as the 8D motors.

Stewy · Mar 1, 2012

Wow thats wild 5 years ! Do the 6's suffer the same poor design in your opinion, they seem to be better ?

hilinerider · Mar 1, 2012

YES, was hopin you would get it figured out, i have had such good luck with my old ves 800 that i wanted to do the same with my dragon, it has 2500 miles and 2 rebuilds, last was a major, hoping it makes it to spring so i can pull and send it this summer

indydan · Mar 2, 2012

Stewy said:
Wow thats wild 5 years ! Do the 6's suffer the same poor design in your opinion, they seem to be better ?

Hi Stewy, A quick ruin down of the samll block evolution.

After working on small block cranks sense 1999 and seeing very little
problems and everything always looked pretty noraml with no real signs
of woren in any 1 area.

Intro 1999 440 Domestic Small Block - 64mm stroke

Then big bored to 500cc.................64 mm stroke

Then big bored to 600cc..................64mm stroke

THEN !!! 2007 comes along and the release of the small block 700

2007/08 Big bore longer stroke ...........68mm The first 700 crankshaft I worked on.........It had a broken PTO-end ( This is not what was strange ) And broken PTO ends are NOT common to this day.

What was strange was the tops of the connecting rods were Blue.
* ( The red flags started to appear ) * ( Rod Ratio problem )

As soon as the lower rod pin move out from the center 4 more millimeters the short rod start to show signs of side loading when the rod comes around from BDC and approaches the 7 o'clock area.

The 2008 the 800 Small Block hits the snow -

800 Big Bore Longer stroke............. 70mm stroke

Now sense 2008 I have worked on a pretty large number of these cranks
and the tops of the connecting rods are almost always Blue. It seems the looser the bore and the more the piston skirts are crushed the bluer the rods.

The rod ratio problem is in all of the CFI motors 2008 thru 2012, My bet is the 2013 is the same way.

Polaris has beefed up the lower extended cylinder sleeves 2 time since the release, The piston is not the problem.

Polaris built the 2000 thr 2005 big block 800 - 70mm stroke x 85mm bore with zero piston problems.

Now in the 2008 a motor with the exact same Bore & stroke 70 x 85 and the pistons are failing like crazy.

( Rod Ratio ) - Period, Myself and a few other guys new this the first time we measured the rods. But it has taken until now to get a connecting rod to the table in large enough numbers to handle the need.

I am in the process of pricing out a package for the customer that has a motor with good cylinders & Pistons and just wants the crankshaft Long Rod conversion to extended the life of their 800 to hold up like the old big block pistons did.

Its a sad deal, The SB has a great crankshaft much stronger then the Big Block but Polaris dropped the ball on the rod ratio.

Hey HiLineRider - Good to hear from you, Summer is great time for me.

Dan

MARV1 · Mar 2, 2012

And which oil is recommended to be used on these engines? Just for the record?

Burr · Mar 2, 2012

I would think the oil will be castrol or polaris blue. I did what Dan said on two motors that he did for me which is castrol premix. No problem with that after many miles.

jim9006 · Mar 3, 2012

Got picitures? Did you do any cooling mods for the cylinder, exhaust port or head?

whittaker727 · Mar 3, 2012

So, this will be available for the 11-13's or it is available for them?

hilinerider · Mar 4, 2012

indydan said:
Hi Stewy, A quick ruin down of the samll block evolution.

After working on small block cranks sense 1999 and seeing very little
problems and everything always looked pretty noraml with no real signs
of woren in any 1 area.

Intro 1999 440 Domestic Small Block - 64mm stroke

Then big bored to 500cc.................64 mm stroke

Then big bored to 600cc..................64mm stroke

THEN !!! 2007 comes along and the release of the small block 700

2007/08 Big bore longer stroke ...........68mm The first 700 crankshaft I worked on.........It had a broken PTO-end ( This is not what was strange ) And broken PTO ends are NOT common to this day.

What was strange was the tops of the connecting rods were Blue.
* ( The red flags started to appear ) * ( Rod Ratio problem )

As soon as the lower rod pin move out from the center 4 more millimeters the short rod start to show signs of side loading when the rod comes around from BDC and approaches the 7 o'clock area.

The 2008 the 800 Small Block hits the snow -

800 Big Bore Longer stroke............. 70mm stroke

Now sense 2008 I have worked on a pretty large number of these cranks
and the tops of the connecting rods are almost always Blue. It seems the looser the bore and the more the piston skirts are crushed the bluer the rods.

The rod ratio problem is in all of the CFI motors 2008 thru 2012, My bet is the 2013 is the same way.

Polaris has beefed up the lower extended cylinder sleeves 2 time since the release, The piston is not the problem.

Polaris built the 2000 thr 2005 big block 800 - 70mm stroke x 85mm bore with zero piston problems.

Now in the 2008 a motor with the exact same Bore & stroke 70 x 85 and the pistons are failing like crazy.

( Rod Ratio ) - Period, Myself and a few other guys new this the first time we measured the rods. But it has taken until now to get a connecting rod to the table in large enough numbers to handle the need.

I am in the process of pricing out a package for the customer that has a motor with good cylinders & Pistons and just wants the crankshaft Long Rod conversion to extended the life of their 800 to hold up like the old big block pistons did.

Its a sad deal, The SB has a great crankshaft much stronger then the Big Block but Polaris dropped the ball on the rod ratio.

Hey HiLineRider - Good to hear from you, Summer is great time for me.

Dan

well she didn't make it dan, broke the skirt on the pto piston, which broke off the monoblock skirt which the rod put thru the bottom of the block, dam it

Snowbird11 · Mar 6, 2012

MARV1 said:
And which oil is recommended to be used on these engines? Just for the record?

i thought indy posted a few oils on this thread but i don't see them anymore. castrol 2T, poo blue and one other i thought. i'm still running gold but may switch after i run out. if i remember correctly, i could add a blend or mineral oil to the end of my tank of gold but not another full synthetic.

Snowbird11 · Mar 6, 2012

i remembered where i saw it. it was one of the item descriptions at his online store. i bet they protect but to be honest i'm also concerned with how much they smoke and smell. i have no experience with any listed here.

1 - Castrol T2 ( about $20.00 per gallon )
2 - Injex ( About $20.00 per gallon )
3 - Arctic Blue ( $20.00 per gallon ) This is a blend, and a really great oil for the money.
4 - Lucas Semi-synthetic

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