ANYONE USING BOONDOCKER 3D TUNNING BOX FOR TM1000

mmsports · Jan 24, 2012

3 D sucks.

I spent all day on it and never could get it 100 % .

I am going back out tomorrow with last yeas version. It will take me 10 minutes to get it. I just do not get it. Why the think the wheel is going to get better. Store fixing stuff when its not broke. I dial a sled in once and never touch the box again. So we did we need a new version.

SHOP! · Jan 24, 2012

mmsports said:
I spent all day on it and never could get it 100 % .

I am going back out tomorrow with last yeas version. It will take me 10 minutes to get it. I just do not get it. Why the think the wheel is going to get better. Store fixing stuff when its not broke. I dial a sled in once and never touch the box again. So we did we need a new version.

You might just not fully understand how it works. From what I know there is always room for improvement I have never once had or seen something that couldn't be improved. I think they made this new box because they know it is better not because they think it is. I like to say this to a few ppl I ride with go play with your rainbows. hahaha

SHOP! · Jan 24, 2012

try this
A -5
B 70
C 05
D 09
E 02
Os 40 (this might need to be changed)
Cr 30
ACEL AF 0 DR 0 SN 8 Sometimes it likes -1 on AF
DEEL AF 0 DR 0 SN 8[/QUOTE]
extra -02 -05 -5
RPM has to be on!!

Your numbers will never be the same as another sled unless you run the same fuel and everything else is the same. so these numbers might be close for you but not right on

mmsports · Jan 24, 2012

yep

You are right I might not get it. Or did I get it or it would be running right. I did not say we cant improve something and I see in the like m1000 box it needs more tunning . I am just not sure the new 3 d box is it. Kind of like the Ada box the first version sucked when you charge temps got hot it would lean out sled and toast it. It tool me a while and three top ends to finally turn it off and not look back still do not use it . So I guess I will hi look at my rainbow what ever that's suppose to mean have fun playing with yours.

SHOP! said:
You might just not fully understand how it works. From what I know there is always room for improvement I have never once had or seen something that couldn't be improved. I think they made this new box because they know it is better not because they think it is. I like to say this to a few ppl I ride with go play with your rainbows. hahaha

SHOP! · Jan 24, 2012

rainbows meaning attitude box's and what ever else they call them.

M1000Mod162 · Jan 24, 2012

SHOP! said:
try this
A -5
B 70
C 05
D 09
E 02
Os 40 (this might need to be changed)
Cr 30
ACEL AF 0 DR 0 SN 8 Sometimes it likes -1 on AF
DEEL AF 0 DR 0 SN 8

extra -02 -05 -5
RPM has to be on!!

Your numbers will never be the same as another sled unless you run the same fuel and everything else is the same. so these numbers might be close for you but not right on[/QUOTE]

Thank you will def try those changes! Can you explain to me what your understanding is of those abcde numbers? like to kinda understand what im doing when i start making changes! 70 wow that is a big dif from the 0 i have now lol.That isnt by chance suposed to be a 7 is it. Not doubting you at all just want to be sure its not a typo seems awful high

mmsports · Jan 25, 2012

i get it.

Ya I would rather spend 3 days getting the 3D working than a day with a dolbeck box and just have to settle for what the programer has set up for a map.

SHOP! said:
rainbows meaning attitude box's and what ever else they call them.

backcountryislife · Jan 25, 2012

SHOP! said:
rainbows meaning attitude box's and what ever else they call them.

Funny... my rainbows sit under the hood & I don't need to touch them:face-icon-small-win :face-icon-small-ton

Btw, to the posters talkign about how TPS based would cause issues, at high altitude we run into trouble with systems that solely base fueling from DC, as our DC lowers up here due to our air. Adding control that ALSO takes TPS into consideration would be the best of both worlds imo... but obviously it would be pretty difficult to tune.

I would think though, that if you got a setup that ran well, you could finally just leave it, as it should do a better job of adjusting, unlike the BD boxes that everyone I know uses, where it's a constant tuning game.

BD has a tendency to come up with ways to make their product suck to deal with, but they do also have some cool ideas.

mmsports · Jan 25, 2012

Even Funnier

I find just the opposite the dolbeck guys are always playing with the box and once I tune it I put it away and never touch it.

backcountryislife said:
Funny... my rainbows sit under the hood & I don't need to touch them:face-icon-small-win :face-icon-small-ton

Btw, to the posters talkign about how TPS based would cause issues, at high altitude we run into trouble with systems that solely base fueling from DC, as our DC lowers up here due to our air. Adding control that ALSO takes TPS into consideration would be the best of both worlds imo... but obviously it would be pretty difficult to tune.

I would think though, that if you got a setup that ran well, you could finally just leave it, as it should do a better job of adjusting, unlike the BD boxes that everyone I know uses, where it's a constant tuning game.

BD has a tendency to come up with ways to make their product suck to deal with, but they do also have some cool ideas.

mmsports · Jan 25, 2012

3D map

So I went up with the old version Boondocker Box and it took me a lot longer to tune than what I thought and I had to do some radical things with that box to get the G push kit on the Pro Climb with the throttle bodies removed to rip but I was able to get it ripping I will post video tomorrow. I had a good ride on the PC today and actually liked it. Road hard in the trees all day did not blow even 1 belt.

M1000Mod162 · Jan 25, 2012

mmsports said:
So I went up with the old version Boondocker Box and it took me a lot longer to tune than what I thought and I had to do some radical things with that box to get the G push kit on the Pro Climb with the throttle bodies removed to rip but I was able to get it ripping I will post video tomorrow. I had a good ride on the PC today and actually liked it. Road hard in the trees all day did not blow even 1 belt.

So I take it you have enough snow to do some decent testing? I might bring my sled up to you soon if I cant get it soon and of course if your still intrested in tuning it for me?

SHOP! · Jan 25, 2012

It's a 70 not 7.

akholland · Jan 26, 2012

im also having a mid range bog at 6300 rpm when I let off the throttle and hit it again. As soon as it drops out of the boost i have to feather the throttle to get it to tach out again. Its funny how we all have the same problem and its cause is "lack of proper bd box fuel numbers". I know it's not fuel numbers because I have tried every combination known to man in this box over the last 3 months. I think there is more to this story. Anyone else notice that boondocker doesn't sell the pump gas turbo anymore? Only the race gas? Makes me think they couldnt make them run right so they stopped selling them. I'm so pissed at boondickers, they wont even email back to help me solve the issue.. my turbo is up for sale.

09 turbom1000
pump gas
100ll 6lb boost
0-3000' alaska
ebc
ada
adjustable actuator
153

ACTM7 · Jan 27, 2012

TM1000

I dont know if this is your problem, but my 1000 was easyer to tune when i had pipe wraped or factory insulation on it . so if your running bare pipe that might something

akholland · Jan 27, 2012

I have the stock pipe insulation installed. One thing I did notice was that immediately after installing a mesh hood it ran just a tad better. I will try the pipe wrap thing.

M1000Mod162 · Jan 27, 2012

myn seems to run pretty rough when cool

I also have stock heat shields on pipe! Only thing about myn is it seems to run the best after everything has got really warm if I let it cool down for a little bit and take off it kinda runs shi**y for the first 5 till it warms back up! Maybe I need to wrap the pipe!

mmsports · Jan 27, 2012

tuning

Bring it up we have good snow.

Just call and book it.

We can get it running .

M1000Mod162 said:
So I take it you have enough snow to do some decent testing? I might bring my sled up to you soon if I cant get it soon and of course if your still intrested in tuning it for me?

M1000Mod162 · Jan 29, 2012

Ok so i took it up sat and it ran pretty rough all day! Air to fuel was showing lean like 13.5 14 kept richin it up sled wouild run worse and A/f wasnt really going down got up to 54 on 7500psi hi started seeing 12.8! Started to head back to truck and noticed throttle was kinda sticking in the 1/4 throttle area then the saftey sensor on the throttle started trying to kill the sled for like a mile then it finnaly did it and died! Would not start back up! Started looking at throttle cable and saftey sensor everything was fine! So i reached down and giggled the tps a little! Sled fired right back up! Tps was tight and wasnt throwing sensor! Went about 100 ft and decided to try a different map that had worked ok one day so i saved it and didnt tough it again!(I know never should have made two changes at once!) Put that map in and the sled started ripping the best it has ever ran! No bogs at all could chop the throttle and everything was right there everytime i hit it and was pulling harder then it ever has! Only got about 25 mins of this because it was getting dark and no headlights! Should have went back to other map to find out if it would have started running like poo again but i was having a blast riding it! Also should note that my air to fuel was 12.6 wot with hi psi 7500 number 41

So thinkin about and talking with my riding buddy ive noticed a pattern! It always runs way better towards the last hour of day light when it starts to get cold. So could this be telling me that i need to get a better (colder air) air flow to my turbo intake???? More vents maybe?

Ive thought about a out of hood cold air intake but im in the trees all the time! I just know that ill go through a tight hole rip that filter off and suck a pine cone or bunch of Pine needles into turbo! Thinking about putting a bunch of venting holes in the hood by the air filter!

What do you guys think about this? Thanks again

Ryan

Dogmeat · Jan 30, 2012

mmsports said:
I spent all day on it and never could get it 100 % .

I am going back out tomorrow with last yeas version. It will take me 10 minutes to get it. I just do not get it. Why the think the wheel is going to get better. Store fixing stuff when its not broke. I dial a sled in once and never touch the box again. So we did we need a new version.

I can't figure out how taking a direct reading from the TPS sensor to determine what the box deems Lo Md Hi is going to be any significant improvement over what its already doing unless the way it calculates (estimates) duty cycle right now is so far off base its just rediculous .... but I don't think it is that far off base since it seems to work?

The turbo still wants to hit whatever your max boost set point is regardless of what the box estimates current duty cycle or TPS is doing, so all scaling boost set point to throttle position will do that I can see is make your waste gate flap harder than it normally would to vent exhaust gases in order to target the lower boost set point ....... if I'm understanding this thread correctly and that is in fact what the "3D" tuning is doing ..... but, since riding a snowmobile you are CONSTANTLY on/off the throttle all day, I can't see the need whatsoever for more precise fuel controlling or anything like this 3D tuning is supposed to provide because the reality is the turbo reacts so slowly any fine tuning on this is going to prove to be meangingless in practice ......

Idk I might not have a clue here but I can't figure out what this is supposed to accomplish for anyone.

M1000Mod162 · Feb 5, 2012

vigorcs90 said:
and your right I am running 42 lbs of fuel pressure at and idle. Might have to bumb them up to match yours.

Did you ever get your setup working with this 3d tunning?

ANYONE USING BOONDOCKER 3D TUNNING BOX FOR TM1000

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Member

Active member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Similar threads