My take on some Axys rpm/poer loss.

rx1tonofun said:

Here's what I finally came up with for my SLP Stage 3 setup that works where I ride, 6-8000 foot. In the primary I use SLP Magnums with 2 setscrews and 1 lock screw with the blue pink spring. I've messed with the stock secondary and you can kind of get away with a 54/38 .35-.46 duration but I ended up with a TIED secondary running a 73/59 .46 cam with the blk pink spring. I'm also running the Gates belt for the AXYS RMK. I ended up with the PRO Quick drive pulleys and AXYS belt goes from a 1.95:1 to a 2.10:1 ratio. I can run it out to full shift and rpm, it runs hard. I ran against a Sidewinder and a King Cat and they can both get me on top end but out of the hole and to my top end they have to catch me. They don't blow by me either they just kind of creep by. If they hook up better it might be different, but I'll take it. It works good. Closer to 8000 foot it pulls down a bit 8100-8200 but it still pulls and doesn't sign off. I'll probably end up getting a little shallower finish angle cam to try next season.

I didn't come up with this on my own. I've had help from other members and I want to share this info because I know how frustrating it can be to lay down some hard earned cash and not get what you're expecting. I hope this helps, thanks for your time.

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Teth-Air said:

My 16 AXYS has slowly been losing power and i have had to lighten the primary up. It has 4000+ kms on it. This weekend I looked into it a bit more and pulled the exhaust valves to clean, do a compression test and ohm the exhaust temp sensor.

When I pulled the valves, I had a bunch of brass flakes wash out of the PTO side. This PTO side turned out to be down to 95 psi compression too, with mag at 105. Exhaust temp sensor was good and pistons looked perfect.

Where is that brass coming from? Water pump gear?

Hope warranty will cover it.

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Teth-Air said:

My 16 AXYS has slowly been losing power and i have had to lighten the primary up. It has 4000+ kms on it. This weekend I looked into it a bit more and pulled the exhaust valves to clean, do a compression test and ohm the exhaust temp sensor.

When I pulled the valves, I had a bunch of brass flakes wash out of the PTO side. This PTO side turned out to be down to 95 psi compression too, with mag at 105. Exhaust temp sensor was good and pistons looked perfect.

Where is that brass coming from? Water pump gear?

Hope warranty will cover it.

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raleigh111 said:

First off i would like to thank all of you for contributing to this topic as it is a very common problem that i myself am experienceing.

Clutchs? From what i know the only difference between the axys clutch and the pro is the angle is now straight on the axis. If you sent your pro clutch to indy dan to work his magic it is now a axys clutch. I have tried my pro clutches on my axys with the older stock belt and experienced no difference in rpm loss. I tried many different belts and same problem. This was my way of eliminating the clutchs in question, and yes i swapped weights, springs, helixs. As a matter of fact my sks wil not pull 8300 no matter what? I even tried 68 weights with a 350 spring and no luck. She will rev more at 3/4 throttle and fade wfo. I am testing at 850ft.
I do not believe the main problem is clutches unless you have a noticable problem there.


Hot pipe? I do know from my grass dragging days and dyno sessions that some motors do like to be cold and have a hopt pipe. I seen this with the old zr700 would make another 10 hp. What we did was run 87 octane fuel to heat the pipe up faster. Could be a test for someone? set timing back and run 87 to heat the pipe up??


Bottom line is i see it for most people as a motor problem. Yes i know it can be clutches for some as we all know this but i am stating for most people.

My sled fells better at 3/4 throttle? It has to have something to do with motor not clutches. its flat out not making the power at wfo that my old pro does. If the axys motor is so much stronger it should rev those 68 weights with 350 spring to the moon? My pro does? I do not think that the minimal difference in hp from the axys to the pro should equal all this talk of loading the motor and require such drastic changes IMHO.

I am going to stay focused on the ecu, exhaust valves, tps, throttle bodies.

Anyways thanks guys and i will keep checking this thread for news. I have been wrong before so no worries if a am. Just want to figure it out.

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xmk1080 said:

The axys likes a hot pipe and if you can't get it hot and keep it hot you will not pull rpm's at full throttle. There are many contributing factors and loading it the motor with proper clutching is the main one. Other factors include pipe temp sensor, bad plugs, tps, low compression, junk motor mounts, exhaust valves not opening all the way, and stock exhaust pipe stinger not tight enough. The the exhaust stingers do vary from pipe to pipe because they are a pressed fit and leaves horsepower on the board. Between checking and modifying your stock pipe and then loading it with the proper clutching you will pull the right rpm's.

I did mod my stinger and it worked great with a partial progressive helix. Then I went to the slp stage 3 with a tied and magnum force weights, running a 70-57.46 and it keeps a really nice load on the motor for a longer duration plus the magnum force weights have have moved the weight away from the pin and towards the heel, belly and tip, plus when you add weight it adds it mostly it the tip and will also load the motor more. I pull 8300 to 8400 rpm on the hill all day and have seen as high as 8500 rpm on the trail at a little llower altitude.

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raleigh111 said:

i understand what you are saying about loading the motor as i went through that learning curve back in the tripple to twin days. I would think 70 gram weights with the soft gold spring could qualify as loading a motor. I used to pull the correct rpm with stock clutching and now i dont. I want the motor to pull correct rpm as it did before and do not want to try and mask the problem with different clutching and helixs. Once i get that back i have no problems with mod weights, helixs ect. I am not saying you are masking it but how do you really know your not? could you put stock clutching back in and see if you get the 8300 back?

Thanks for your input.

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