• Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Loose exhaust heat sheild and insulation

X
Dec 10, 2009
77
7
8
Hey guys, after about 230 hrs my exhaust heat sheild is quite loose. I haven't noticed any vibrations or noises but I do notice a lot of Fiberglas insulation Fibers everywhere under the hood.

I have thought about prying the heat sheild off and wrapping it with header wrap and reinstalling the heat sheild. I also thought that an easier solution might be just to use some sort of silicon to seal up the heat sheild to the pipe at the various openings on the sheild.

Anyone have any suggestions on a silicon that would withstand the high temperatures or any other solutions to the problem? I have some ultra black silicon here but it's only rated for 500 degrees which probably isn't enough.

This has to be a problem other people have had so I'm all ears.
 

LoudHandle

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Apr 21, 2011
3,882
2,764
113
Valdez, AK
The Ultra Copper is rated to 700 degrees F and is what I use on the exhaust springs to dampen the vibration and make them last longer. I would think that would likely be enough to handle the outside pipe temp. A temperature gun would verify that first, if so desired. Shoot it immediately after a couple long pulls.
 

POLZIN

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 26, 2007
4,092
1,546
113
50
Farmington NM
If you take your time you can pry the crimp on the heat shield apart with out tearing it up . I did it on a pipe last year . I used one of the pry tools for opening paint cans kinda like a bent screw driver and worked back and forth. I used a pair of flush cut nippers to crimp it back together . And just as you suggest used header wrap for insulation and left what was still there.
 

TRS

Life Member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 1, 2007
4,098
6,229
113
67
Cody, WY
If you take your time you can pry the crimp on the heat shield apart with out tearing it up . I did it on a pipe last year . I used one of the pry tools for opening paint cans kinda like a bent screw driver and worked back and forth. I used a pair of flush cut nippers to crimp it back together . And just as you suggest used header wrap for insulation and left what was still there.

^^^^^^
Clean your airbox and clutches. The glass is hard on parts, especially your engine. Don't forget the reed cages, they accumulate the glass. Nasty stuff.
 
X
Dec 10, 2009
77
7
8
If you take your time you can pry the crimp on the heat shield apart with out tearing it up . I did it on a pipe last year . I used one of the pry tools for opening paint cans kinda like a bent screw driver and worked back and forth. I used a pair of flush cut nippers to crimp it back together . And just as you suggest used header wrap for insulation and left what was still there.

Did you wrap the pipe over the old insulation or did you just throw out the fiberglass? Was the wrap thick enough to keep the sheild tight? How did you end the wrapping? I was thinking I could continue the wrap just a bit past the heat sheild and use a hose clamp to keep it tight.
 
X
Dec 10, 2009
77
7
8
^^^^^^
Clean your airbox and clutches. The glass is hard on parts, especially your engine. Don't forget the reed cages, they accumulate the glass. Nasty stuff.

Exactly! Already pulled the box and reeds to install some v-force 3Rs.

I'm thinking 25 ft of tr 2" should be enough wrap to complete the job.
 

wfieldin

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Jul 28, 2009
1,911
444
83
Denver
Can always get stock pipe ceramic coated, we have shops that can do it locally for under $100.
 
Premium Features