Cheap mods..
- Thread starter sledordie
- Start date
E
65 dollar vent kit from mtn fit
My clutch kit is a great enhancement for only $255 USD ($275 CAD)
Comes with primary spring, pin kit and helix.
Calibration sheet.
Support after the sale.
Technical info website.
Clutch coaching/advice.
Works well with 413, 414, 415, 412, 417, 440, 441, and newest DJ Mountain ramps. For certain big bore applications, I will grind you a set of custom ramps.
* Stabilizes fluctuating rpms.
* (Quick backshift burst) Rpms quicker to recover when cycling the throttle under heavy load at low track speeds
* 1 clicker change per 3000' elevation increase (example - clicker 4 from 5000'~8000', change to clicker 5 for 8000'~11000'
* Cooler system temperatures (from reduced rpm fluctuation).
* Slows belt wear (from reduced rpm fluctuation)
* Higher track mph.
* Harder track speed staying power.
* Strong engine braking
* Tighter connection between throttle thumb tip and the ground.
* Superb throttle control for sidehilling, stump jumping.
* Poke higher without track poaching.
* Works great with stock gearing
* Accepts gearing changes down to 20:51 with little flyweight calibration
* Increased mileage
* Uses stock belt [recommend the 377 as the best belt]
Easy to tune, little fuss.
Marries great with any engine or exhaust mod whether be head/big bore/pipe/pipes...etc.
Guarantee to work as advertised if your clutch mechanical's and engine fitness/management are in great shape.
Comes with primary spring, pin kit and helix.
Calibration sheet.
Support after the sale.
Technical info website.
Clutch coaching/advice.
Works well with 413, 414, 415, 412, 417, 440, 441, and newest DJ Mountain ramps. For certain big bore applications, I will grind you a set of custom ramps.
* Stabilizes fluctuating rpms.
* (Quick backshift burst) Rpms quicker to recover when cycling the throttle under heavy load at low track speeds
* 1 clicker change per 3000' elevation increase (example - clicker 4 from 5000'~8000', change to clicker 5 for 8000'~11000'
* Cooler system temperatures (from reduced rpm fluctuation).
* Slows belt wear (from reduced rpm fluctuation)
* Higher track mph.
* Harder track speed staying power.
* Strong engine braking
* Tighter connection between throttle thumb tip and the ground.
* Superb throttle control for sidehilling, stump jumping.
* Poke higher without track poaching.
* Works great with stock gearing
* Accepts gearing changes down to 20:51 with little flyweight calibration
* Increased mileage
* Uses stock belt [recommend the 377 as the best belt]
Easy to tune, little fuss.
Marries great with any engine or exhaust mod whether be head/big bore/pipe/pipes...etc.
Guarantee to work as advertised if your clutch mechanical's and engine fitness/management are in great shape.
Last edited:
O
.010 Head Cut for just $50.00 per jug is hands down the best bang for the buck.
OT
OT
A
A can is always Ideal place to start
Making sure your stock clutching is setup appropriatly for your area (short of buying a different clutching setup) by running pin weight to run proper RPM on clicker 3-4.
Suspension adjustments for your type of riding are important.
Track alignment and tension not too loose or too tight.
Anything to drop weight.....silencer, unnecessary insulation, shrouds, idlers etc...
Proper ski-alignment....little things add up!
Additional air intake area for the deep.....SLP's is nice.
:beer;
Suspension adjustments for your type of riding are important.
Track alignment and tension not too loose or too tight.
Anything to drop weight.....silencer, unnecessary insulation, shrouds, idlers etc...
Proper ski-alignment....little things add up!
Additional air intake area for the deep.....SLP's is nice.
:beer;
D
DJ's clutch
All I'm doing is DJ's clutch, hoping it will make my sled fell like a new sled.
All I'm doing is DJ's clutch, hoping it will make my sled fell like a new sled.
R
Remove sway bar
Swap skis (left for right)
10" riser
Vent airbox
Swap skis (left for right)
10" riser
Vent airbox
K
why swap skis around? what will that do?
W
There offset skis, will make the front end wider feeling basically.
W
I made a big mesh screen to go over my air intake. Worked well, keeping the air intake clear.
There was a thread on here last year, about cutting down your rear axle and making a two wheel kit, all from the parts already on your sled.
There was a thread on here last year, about cutting down your rear axle and making a two wheel kit, all from the parts already on your sled.
J
hand guards
R
The skis have a central skeg and an outer skeg. Switching them puts the outer skeg on the inside so you are not fighting it when you pull it over.
Rt
D
-Pull every piece of foam out from under hood and under pipe (remove pipe to do it properly). Best to do this when sled is frozen, as glue will come off with the foam and not stick to the plastic forming the residue that's tough to remove.
-Cut all the extra plastic off your tool kit holder, leave only the tabs for mounting and some plastic to hold it and strap. Opens up airflow on that side of engine/clutches.
-Learn how to set the rear skid, search on here or Dootalk.
-Get DJ's clutch kit and learn how to install and maintain your own clutches (huge performance gain from the kit and from the maintenance)
-get the oil injection set correctly (i haven't seen one yet that was not an oil pig)
-track and chain tension (understand this, as it can rob huge power and can cause chain failure in an XP....this happens alot).
Cost on the above is all free except for DJ's kit. The sled will rock with all this done (compared to a "stock" sled). Also add a can for the weight loss, that costs another $400ish up here. And if you have about $450 burning a hole in your pocket add a head with compression for your altitude, we all stick with 13.5 or 14:1 for Revy/Golden areas.
-Cut all the extra plastic off your tool kit holder, leave only the tabs for mounting and some plastic to hold it and strap. Opens up airflow on that side of engine/clutches.
-Learn how to set the rear skid, search on here or Dootalk.
-Get DJ's clutch kit and learn how to install and maintain your own clutches (huge performance gain from the kit and from the maintenance)
-get the oil injection set correctly (i haven't seen one yet that was not an oil pig)
-track and chain tension (understand this, as it can rob huge power and can cause chain failure in an XP....this happens alot).
Cost on the above is all free except for DJ's kit. The sled will rock with all this done (compared to a "stock" sled). Also add a can for the weight loss, that costs another $400ish up here. And if you have about $450 burning a hole in your pocket add a head with compression for your altitude, we all stick with 13.5 or 14:1 for Revy/Golden areas.
D
As winterbrew also mentioned, ski alignment - a huge difference in rider fatigue and sled stability.
C
How do you properly set up the oil consumption?????
and what are the proper specifications and "how to" properly set the tension on the track and chain. Im about to install my two wheel kit and 20T top gear. ??????
K
well, since i haven't ridden it yet, i'll swap the skis around...that way i won't know if i've done went and messed things up!!!
P
How do you set proper ski alignment? Or rather, what is the proper ski alignment? And +1 on setting oil.
R
Adjusting your oiler is a bit of a bit#$@ and they can back out on you.
Regarding the track, as loose as you can run it without ratcheting. I usually look for about 3" of sag when the back end is lifted, then adjust on the mountain depending on ratcheting.
For your chain, just tighten it finger tight and check it regularly.
T
Has anyone tried a aeen pipe on there xp's if so good ;bad?
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