Tuning a clutch to hold backshift??

mx100 · Mar 11, 2016

Looking for a little education on clutch springs.

1. What is the difference in the clutch springs numbers?
Primary 160/320 vs. 160/380?
Secondary 231/303 vs. 157/221
The secondary really baffles me?

2.If I have a sled that starts out at 7900rpm at the bottom of the hill and falls to 7500rpm toward the top of the hill what would be the proper adjustment?

Thanks.

Ron Burgandy · Mar 12, 2016

im no expert but i believe you cant start drastically changing rates without adjusting helix angles. you can gain a quicker backshift with a higher secondary finish rate but it may come at the expense of a slower upshift and belt temps without adjusting helix angles. maybe try dropping a tooth on your top gear first.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mx100 · Mar 13, 2016

So I have been wondering if my sled could gain a little performance through my clutches so I decided to take another member's advice and run his springs and clutch set up. He runs the same helix and ramps as me, but both of his springs are different.

I swaped to his spring set up and went for a ride. In clicker 3 the best rpm I could get was 7900, so I know I need to pull a little weight out. Didn't seam to have as much bottom end, but it did seam like I had more track speed in the middle of the hill at 6500ft elevation. It held it's rpm all the way up the hill. When I got to 8500-9000ft, I climbed a long hill and the rpm's droped from 7900 at the bottom to 7400 at the top at wot just turning out. Then when I went down to the lower elevation it went back to holding the r's and running hard all the way up the hills.

I am just experimenting to see if I can find a little more performance out of my sled. Any other advice or comments are welcome. Thanks.

FEZ · Mar 21, 2016

You need to make 1 phone call to John @ Sledhead racing.

612.718.3861.

Save yourself a lot of time @ $$

Call someone that has been riding, racing, tuning and modifying Ski Doos for over 20 years.

Too much information to put it in a post.

BIG JOHN · Mar 23, 2016

mx100 said:
So I have been wondering if my sled could gain a little performance through my clutches so I decided to take another member's advice and run his springs and clutch set up. He runs the same helix and ramps as me, but both of his springs are different.

I swaped to his spring set up and went for a ride. In clicker 3 the best rpm I could get was 7900, so I know I need to pull a little weight out. Didn't seam to have as much bottom end, but it did seam like I had more track speed in the middle of the hill at 6500ft elevation. It held it's rpm all the way up the hill. When I got to 8500-9000ft, I climbed a long hill and the rpm's droped from 7900 at the bottom to 7400 at the top at wot just turning out. Then when I went down to the lower elevation it went back to holding the r's and running hard all the way up the hills.

I am just experimenting to see if I can find a little more performance out of my sled. Any other advice or comments are welcome. Thanks.

first off...try clicker #4 or even #5...the 441 ramp is extremely aggressive (wont over rev)...as you go UP you lose HP/RPM and the clicker is the easiest way to maintain RPM for the loss of HP...BJ

*assuming all other parameters are good

rotaxrules · May 20, 2016

If you want a quicker backshift (hold rpms) I would go with a stiffer secondary spring would help alot, your up shift will be a little bit slower but in a mountain sled backshift is more impotant

Search

Tuning a clutch to hold backshift??

mx100

Active member

Ron Burgandy

Well-known member

mx100

Active member

FEZ

Free Member

BIG JOHN

Well-known member

rotaxrules

Free Member

Similar threads