Primary Clutch Bolt Torque - 32 mm crank

High Velocity · Nov 8, 2010

Ok, I'm officially going senile. I can't remember the primary clutch bolt torque with the updated 32 mm crankshaft. I believe it's now 85 ft/lbs, but I failed to save the paperwork from the kit when I did the rebuild last fall. I know for sure it's not 95 with the new crank. Anyone know the exact torque ?

turbo RMK · Nov 8, 2010

they call for 80 ft lbs in the instructions

BIGGDAWG · Nov 8, 2010

here is the install proceedure

94fordguy · Nov 8, 2010

I have always heard 96 ft lbs for the 900s. I wouldn't think the new kit would change that?

High Velocity · Nov 8, 2010

turbo RMK said:
they call for 80 ft lbs in the instructions

Thanks a lot. I knew it wasn't 95 anymore. I'm not quite as senile as I thought I was.

BIGGDAWG, thanks for your reply. Although the proceedure is still the same, the 96 ft/lb torque spec listed there no longer applies to the updated crank.

Thanks again guys. Now I can button this thing up and focus on hunting.

Danbot · Nov 9, 2010

Not to discount the instructions, but Indydan has stated a couple times that 80lb is enough for any of the modern twins including the 900's. Since I broke a clutch bolt last year @ 96lb I will be following his spec.

ghostwhite · Nov 9, 2010

DiscoDan said:
Not to discount the instructions, but Indydan has stated a couple times that 80lb is enough for any of the modern twins including the 900's. Since I broke a clutch bolt last year @ 96lb I will be following his spec.

My thoughts exactly, I was gonna post this up a little bit ago but didn't have time to back it up. IndyDan recommends only 80.

ghostwhite · Nov 9, 2010

Here it is

indydan said:
I might add, if you don't mind.........

I saw the part about 80 ft Ibs on the clean fire
and 96 ft Ibs on the 2005 & 06 - 700 / 900

Torque Is important - The proper steps leading up to torquing maybe more important.

#1 - Understand what your trying to acheive.

#2 - The goal here is to get the drive clutch and the crank snout to become locked together as tite as possible without damaging the bolt. ( so the drive clutch does NOT spin on the crank ) and weld itself to the crank ( normally cocked if it happens )

#3 - Prep -One of the most important steps, is to make sure both the drive clutch bore and the crank snout is polished and clean with a very fine scotch-brite type item. ( dirty hands are a killer to the final process )
make sure the last thing you do is wash your hands and then clean both the clutch bore and the crank snout with a brake cleaner type product. so they are completely dry when they go together.

#4 - 80 ft Ibs is really enough for any snowmobile, ....... 96 is really pushing the strength of the botl and I would NOT recomend going that tite.

#5 - Just make damn sure you do a few run ups and retorque, then a mild drive with easy engagements and then another retorque.

#6 - how do you know when your done..............When the bolt stops taking torque your done.

#7 - if anyone EVER tells you to put any kind of lube on the crank or clutch..........do NOT ever try this.

some People have gotten by with this.........Its dead wrong.

the better you seat the clutch to the crank to defy slipping the easier it will come off next time.

Have a GREAT riding year!!!!

IndyDan

BIGGDAWG · Nov 9, 2010

i agree 80-85 is what i torque mine to. i was just posting up the bulletin so people could see.

guidoxpress · Nov 9, 2010

yep 80 ft lbs here as well...

but there are some hings here to watch for..

1. if you started torquing your CURRENT primary bolt to 96lbs...its most likley stretched now, SO...you SHOULD start fresh with a NEW bolt and torque that to 80 ft lbs...and check it FREQUENTLY and re-torque...it will need to be done around 2-4x usually before the bolt finally seats....

2. use NEW primary bolts every season.

3. re-torque the bolt after warm-up, again after a few miles on sled, after about 2 rides, and maybe again a few rides later..

4. let me ride your sleds

Danbot · Nov 9, 2010

guidoxpress said:
4. let me ride your sleds

I was with you right up until this ridiculous statement Sean.

Mine will now get a new bolt every time it gets removed, at these torque #'s why risk it. Mine snapped about 80km from the trailer last season, and yup the clutch came off! :face-icon-small-con

High Velocity · Nov 9, 2010

guido, I"ll let you ride my sled any time. Only conditions are: 1) You come up here. and 2) I get to pick a wide, wide, wide open area with no trees within 5 miles - your reputation preceeds you. LOL!!!

Danbot · Nov 9, 2010

High Velocity said:
guido, I"ll let you ride my sled any time. Only conditions are: 1) You come up here. and 2) I get to pick a wide, wide, wide open area with no trees within 5 miles - your reputation preceeds you. LOL!!!

Watch out Ken, he's supposed to be coming up for the Revy ride in March.... speaking of which, I'm sure you already booked holidays for??!!:rockon:

guidoxpress · Nov 9, 2010

LOL...ITS ON!!

ghostwhite · Nov 9, 2010

Ruh-Roh!!! Hmmmmmm march....

High Velocity · Nov 9, 2010

DiscoDan said:
Watch out Ken, he's supposed to be coming up for the Revy ride in March.... speaking of which, I'm sure you already booked holidays for??!!:rockon:

Dan, I can't just book holidays, I'm a contract field operator. If I need time off, I pay someone to cover my shifts. Please remind me of the dates and I'll definitely try to arrange coverage as I am interested in this ride.

P.S. : guido, Sometimes I'm not the brightest bulb on the tree, so the offer stands if we meet up.:wacko::shocked:

Danbot · Nov 9, 2010

High Velocity said:
Dan, I can't just book holidays, I'm a contract field operator. If I need time off, I pay someone to cover my shifts. Please remind me of the dates and I'll definitely try to arrange coverage as I am interested in this ride.

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220340

Z-Man · Nov 15, 2010

guidoxpress said:
2. use NEW primary bolts every season.

Dammit!!!! Now I have to order a new clutch bolt too. :face-icon-small-dis

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Primary Clutch Bolt Torque - 32 mm crank

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