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1996 XCR 600 Light Mod-Help/suggestions
- Thread starter sledheader
- Start date
Sorry for the triple post lol. It didn't look like the videos were posting on my phone.
All bearings have some play but that looks to be a bit excessive to me. It sounds a bit rough when you spin it but it's kind of hard to tell with the computer speakers cranked up.
I stopped and talked to a friend of mine about it. He looked at it and said it's good to go. Said he would spray the bearings out before assembly but didn't see any reason not to run it. He has rebuilt tons of motors so I trust him.
I have a set of .020 pistons and a full top end gasket set coming with a set of wrist pin bearings and wrist pins. When they get here I'll drop the pistons and block off to get bored.
I have a set of .020 pistons and a full top end gasket set coming with a set of wrist pin bearings and wrist pins. When they get here I'll drop the pistons and block off to get bored.
Wet sanding helped a lot. I could get it much better u think but I don't have the patience. Can't spend too much time on it or I'll be heartbroken the first time a friend goes riding and rails a tree lol
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In case someone reading this wants to know, and for my future reference, here are the clearance specs for SPI pistons
http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/spipistonguide.pdf
.004-.005 up to 65mm bore and .005-.006 for 65mm+. Since this is a bored out 65mm, I think shooting for .005 would be desired.
http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/spipistonguide.pdf
.004-.005 up to 65mm bore and .005-.006 for 65mm+. Since this is a bored out 65mm, I think shooting for .005 would be desired.
I got the bottom end together last weekend so things are on the mend. Still waiting on the monoblock and pistons to come back from NAPA. Headed to Vegas tomorrow so it will be next week before I can get the rest of the motor together!
Did a little bit of work to the transfer ports before I put it together. Make it flow a little better.
And this is where we left off for tonight!
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One thing that Keeps bothering me about this is why did it do it? It's obviously lack of oil in that cylinder but why? I checked the line, it's not plugged. Other two cylinders looked good. Any reason? I don't want to be doing this again any time soon
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could be something like that carb wasnt seated pefectly for a spell, or someone ran wrong plug..
ill send ya a 3-way egt if you wanna keep an eye on things. i bought it at a swapmeet but never needed it. got a pod too..
Thanks for the reply! I hope so. The crank case oil port on the PTO side is now enlarge and transer ports are improved.
I am going to get with you on parts, for sure. My wedding is September 17th so I'm trying to be stingy on some things until then. (read my fiance keeps charging crap to my CC and this wedding is getting more and more expensive!!). I have been itching to text you and see what it would cost to have you ship parts though.
I did drop the motor back in the sled after a quick douching of the nasty, oily, dirty belly pan last night. Didn't get much shop time as I was also finishing up my husbandly duties of building 30 barnwood center pieces for the big day:face-icon-small-fro It's bolted in with coils and oil line hooked back up. I am hoping to get the old fuel drained tonight because I forgot to before I set the motor in. Basically the whole front end is ready to go back together including hood. Then it'll be buttoned up until I get some parts from Sno Jet!
The screws that you're talking about are the throttle stops for setting the minimum air/idle SPEED. I'm talking about the idle air bleed screws which are used to make "fine" adjustments to the air/fuel ratio at idle. They are small, brass screws on the mag side of the carb, before the throttle slide. They are very small and almost countersunk. They should be set to start with, about 1.5 turns out from bottomed, and then adjust from there to achieve the strongest (highest) idle possible. If adjusting those screws makes the idle speed too high, then you lower the speed by "unscrewing" the throttle stop screws (the ones w/the springs) which lowers the slides. Doing THAT, will make the idle air bleed screws more sensitive and you can usually go back to the idle air bleed screws and get "more out of them", so to speak.
To set the screws with springs on them (the idle speed/throttle stop screws) there are a plethora of methods, but here is the cheapest, easiest way I know of, and how I do it:
Remove the air box and with one hand hold the throttle close to WOT. With the other hand, reach into ONE of the carbs and feel the throttle slide. Adjust the throttle setting w/your throttle hand, until the leading edge of the slide is flush w/the top of the carb's bore. Holding the throttle from moving from that point, feel the other two carbs. If the slides of those carbs is not flush w/the top of the bore, like your first carb was, then you need to adjust the throttle cable tension (where the cable s screw into the top of the carb) until they are all equal in "height".
Now all three slides are aligned together, at the same "height", and this is critical on the Piston port 600 engine. Now, release the throttle, and using two fingers reach in and touch two of the carb slides at the same time. Using other hand, ever so slightly squeeze the throttle, lifting the slides off their stops. They should start moving at exactly the same time. If one slide starts to lift before another, that means what? That it's Stop (the screw w/the spring on it) is back off further than the others, and that slide is coming to rest lower in the bore. Which means at idle, that cylinder wouldn't be pulling it weight. Go back and forth, checking two carbs together at a time, until you've got them all perfectly operating, in unison.
With the air screws adjusted 1.5 turns out, and the belt off, start the engine and get it warmed up a little. Dial in the air bleed screws, then shut off and install the belt. Start it up again, and then you need to adjust the idle speed with the belt on, using the stop screw...again. After you get the desired idle speed, you'll need to double check that the slides are lifting in unison, again.
Once ALL that is done, and assuming that your belt tension is correct, the thing should start when warm, with about 6" of pull cord and a sharp jerk.
On the same side of the carb as the air screw and just in front of it, is the idle speed adj. screw. It sounds like they are turned in too far causing your high idle. You can try backing each one off the same amount (a turn or two) and then see if it still idles high.
But you will still need to synch both the idle and the throttle opening positions on each carb to actually get it right. As I said it is actually pretty easy to do just using a couple different sizes of drill bits as spacers to set the idle and throttle opening positions. Mine were a 5/64" to synch the throttle openings and then a 3/32" to set the idle positions. Both pretty tiny so that tells you how sensitive / important proper synchronizing of carbs is.
Depending on your sled, sometimes this can be done with the carbs in place with just the air box removed (don't drop the bits inside the engine) or sometimes you have to remove the carbs but either way you still leave the throttle cables connected.
#1 Back off both the idle speed screws and the cable adjusters on each carb so that you know they aren't holding the carbs open.
#2 Insert the smaller of the two bits into the carb throat so that it holds the slide from closing and then adjust your cable slack so that the slide just barely touches the bit and tighten the lock nut on the adjuster.
#3 Now insert the larger bit in the same spot and then turn the idle speed adjustment screw inwards until the slide just barely touches the bit.
#4 Do the same steps on the remaining carbs and you are now synched. You might still need to fine tune the idle speed a tiny bit if it's not quite right but just make sure that you make the exact same adjustment to each carb.
Saved from an old thread for reference
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Well I put it all together tonight and pulled on it. No fire. One time it acted like it wanted to go. I am going to pull the pickle plugs and see if it's full of gas/oil. I was liberal on the 2 stroke oil on assembly plus dumped a good quart in the tank with a full tank of fuel. Checked spark and that checks out. Also have some antifreeze seeping from around the spark plug hole on the mag side. Apparently that o ring didn't seat right. Can't wait to hear this thing run and feel a touch of success!
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V
Looks like you better add more oil, I could still see the sled!!
Glad you got it running.
Glad you got it running.
Hahahaha! I'm telling you, I was LIBERAL on assembly!
It's running crappy all of the sudden. I believe I might have a bad spark plug cap. It blows gas back out the middle carb, runs crappy, and doesn't change when I pull the center cap. I can ground the plug and see spark (hard to pull hard enough to make it spark good and hold the plug/watch for spark all at once). It also shocks me when I grab it. All sounds like a bad plug cap to me, what about you?
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Ensure all plug wires are firmly screwed onto the coil and the plug caps. Once you have done that and if the problem still exists then you can switch the wires at the plugs themselves to see if the problem follows the wire. Beauty of a 2 stroke is that all plugs fire at the same time. I would highly recommend installing the air box before starting to fine tune the air screws on the carbs. I found from past experience it does make a difference.
Well I figured it out. Turns out it wasn't a spark issue at all. I started switching wires and plugs and nothing ever changed. Middle cylinder wasn't firing (or firing right). Looked like a lot of fuel shooting out the back of the carb. Tore into the carb, as soon as the bowl cleared the main jet I knew exactly what the problem was. Pilot jet was laying in the carb bowl! Apparently my hired help (of course it couldn't be me....wait....I don't have any hired help) didn't tighten it down enough when he put it together! All back together now and it's running like a top. Seems to really like 1-1/2 turns out on the air screws even though when I got it they were only 1/2 turn out. Got the hood strapped on and it's about time to tear into the back of this old girl! 
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Does anyone know where online to buy the little rubber screw grommets that hold the fuel pump on? Mine are cracked and broken so the fuel pump is barely held on and I don't even know what they are called to do a search for them!