Noob to SnoWest, got a few carb Q's about my XLT...

So, I bought a 1994 Polaris XLT Special (40th anniversary if that means anything)

The short version:

Been riding the sled for about 200 miles since I bought it, went like hell, and am really happy with it.

The PO mentioned something about the top end being rebuilt, so I though to myself "Awesome, I wont have to touch it [the engine] for a long time."

Great, fast forward to now, and I melted down the stator side piston in a high speed pursuit of a Yamaha V-Maxx 700SX.

What caused the meltdown (determined from the teardown) is the fact that of the 8 studs holding the jugs to the crankcase, 5 of them managed to work themselves loose, causing a vacuum leak and thus going lean, thus causing the meltdown of the stator side piston.

The damage wasn't bad, no sleeve damage, just the piston. I was able to remove the aluminum transfer from the cylinder wall with 33% hydrochloric acid, and then hone it and it is good to go. $133 in parts later I am ready to rebuild.

My question is:

What are the factory carb settings for all of the adjustment screws in the machine. I want to douche out the carbs before I fire it, and that means messing with the settings on the screws.

The engine data is that it is a 3 cylinder 2 stroke with a 64mm (? I'm drunk @ this time) bore and a 60mm stroke, with 16mm wrist pins.

580cc? if the math serves me right.

@ any rate, the sled has triple mikunis, and again, I am wondering what the factory settings are for this motor, including those for the oil pump.

Any help is appreciated.

Yours truly, KMC

At the risk of sounding like a complete and total dunce,

Where are these things located on the carbs?

About the only thing totally obvious to me is the air screw, a large castleated thumb screw on the side.

The pilot I am assuming are the little brass things right in the inlet of the carb.

The needle jet I am assuming is located within the float bowl?

Where are the mains, cutaways, clip on the needle, and any other mistakes I have made located.

Do you have pictures of these adjustments?

I have worked on motors before, but mikuni carbs are foreign to me.

I live at about 1500' elevation.


I have a special kind of lock washer I will be using to fix the base nut issue. Ever heard of Nord-Locks? I have seen fasteners torqued to over 500ft# vibrate loose. (ICE Hydraulic Hammer)

BB454 said:

These are the base settings with the 34 mm carbs:
35 pilot
Q-2 Needle jet
2.0 cut away on the sliders
200 mains
1 turn on the air screw
6DP17 needle with the clip in position 3

If you have 38mm carbs all is the same except 210 mains and 2.5 cutaway sliders.

The 34s have 166 series needle jets and the 38s have 247 series. That is stamped on the side of the needle jet next to the Q-2 number.

Set the oil pump by lining up the hash mark on the pump lever with the one on the housing with the throttles closed. You may have to revisit this after you adjust the throttle cable and idle.

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