99 XCSP to Monutain Sled Build

xrated · Oct 29, 2009

Well I finally have in my possesion most of the needed parts to finally finish turning my 99 700 into a 151 mountain sled!!!

Hopefully the work will go smoothly and turn out well. I'm sure I maybe needing some knowledge from everyone.

This is what led me to the conversion

First thing I did was to buy a 136 skid from a 98 RMK

Then I went all the way out to Spokane to pick up a pair of extensions to go 151 courtesy of Devilrmk on the 4m. Still need to get one cross peice for the extensions, planning on just having a machine shop tap out some aluminum for me. Should I be worried about the extensions only having 2 bolts holding them to the rail, or will the missin cross piece help that out?

xrated · Oct 29, 2009

Then just this week courtesy of Strom Trooper on the 4m I got even more goodies.

He sent me 2 steering posts for a Gen II. One stock and one Chromly, should be about 4 inches taller then stock if he remembers correctly.(I haven't measured).

This biggest part I needed was some different drivers as the stock XC ones were to big, I think 9 or 10 tooth. So now I won't have to worry about clearing my front cooler...still need ideas for the tunnel coolers though.

Also got some extra/different bearings to use if I so decide.

This part order all came about due to my needing drop brackets since the XC suspension mounting holes were not far enough back for the 136 skid. Coudl someone refresh my memory on how far back I need to go. Also would lowering the front mounting holes help clear my tunnel coolers with a 2" track, or would that totally F'up my attack angle?

And 2 more bonus items. A tunnel ext, which I'm pretty certain isn't gonna be long enough since I'm taking a 121 tunnel out to 151. And some different gears so I will be able to pull the longer track. Not sure if I will need new chain or not.

Hopefully you guys enjoy watching the build and feel free to give me tips and do's and don'ts.

xrated · Oct 29, 2009

and i need advice on what track to use.

chadkrump · Oct 29, 2009

Measurements for the xtra-10 skid are at this website http://www.jbshocks.com/x10mount136.jpg

Hope that works for ya, build is looking good, hope everything works out for ya, if ya got any questions, shoot me a PM since I just got done doing a similar project to yours...

CK

manowar · Oct 29, 2009

Nice stuff man i did a xlt with a xtra 10 144" track . I think the 151 x2 polaris series 4 will be a great track that or a chalenger light look for the best deal .

xc_rider08 · Oct 31, 2009

I just did the same thing this past summer/fall.. been a long process.

my 99 xc 600, almost done with the project.

b4

after
141x2
136" skid with elkholm welded extension
simmons ski's
v-force 3
powermadd riser, cable extension
led taillight(not installed yet)
gas rack (not installed yet)
snowflap (not installed yet)

my 136 suspension with the welded extensions to 141

xc_rider08 · Oct 31, 2009

to answer your driver question. i went with 7 tooth drivers from firstplaceparts.com

so that i could clear the front of the tunnel. got good clearance now.

i also regeared from the stock 22/40 to 20/41... not sure how this will do with the smaller drives. going to be a trial and error type thing.

i did have to drop the front mounting bolt of the rear suspension too so i coudl clear the 2" paddles.

hope the it helps... keep me informed on how you doing on the project... if u have any questions feel free to ask

xrated · Nov 13, 2009

Did you drop the front holes straight down?

After talking with Scott about attack angle and such he said my best bet for set up and mounting holes would be to attach the read mounts to the drop brakcets and then place the front mount holes in such a place, so that the raild would sit flat on the shop floor.

Hope this all comes together over T-day while I work on it.

I'm also figuring with the smaller drivers and dropping the front mounts I should be able to clear the 2" or perhaps more depending on where things end up.

manowar · Nov 15, 2009

xrated said:
After talking with Scott about attack angle and such he said my best bet for set up and mounting holes would be to attach the read mounts to the drop brakcets and then place the front mount holes in such a place, so that the raild would sit flat on the shop floor.

yes this is how i did my mod and it turned out great about 19* aproch angle with the drop and roll and iq skid im realy happy with this on a 97 polaris sled .

Island Rider · Nov 16, 2009

heres my xcsp 700 from last winter I have been doing some up grades this summer installed an rmk tunnel ,156 track and mountain addiction skid and dropand roll kit , extrovert drivers and am currently rebuilding an 800 at my buddies machune shop . I will get updated pictures up as soon as I get home from working out of town.

xrated · Nov 30, 2009

Well I got some work done this weekend.

Mounted the drop brackets and got the skid mounted in the rear.

Trouble showed up for the front mounts.

Lowered the sled out of the air so it was sitting on the skid, which was flat on the floor, per Scott. Went to mark where the new front mounts would be, and the skid mounts are sitting so that the hole for the bolt is sitting in such a way that the bottom half sits about 1/4" below the tunnel.

Anyone have ideas or suggestions on what to do?

Also started to work on putting a new steering post in. got the motor mounts undone, only to find out that I can't get the motor up and off the mounts without a second set of hands

Pics later tonight.

skis_n_skid · Nov 30, 2009

xrated said:
Well I got some work done this weekend.

Mounted the drop brackets and got the skid mounted in the rear.

Trouble showed up for the front mounts.

Lowered the sled out of the air so it was sitting on the skid, which was flat on the floor, per Scott. Went to mark where the new front mounts would be, and the skid mounts are sitting so that the hole for the bolt is sitting in such a way that the bottom half sits about 1/4" below the tunnel.

Anyone have ideas or suggestions on what to do?

Also started to work on putting a new steering post in. got the motor mounts undone, only to find out that I can't get the motor up and off the mounts without a second set of hands

Pics later tonight.

The rear hangers look pretty long. Do you have to drop the rear mounts that low to get get the clearance you need at that location? If you can locate the rear mounts a little higher, that would allow you to locate the front mounts a little higher.

When you let the sled down onto the skid, did you have all the weight on the skis so that the front suspension dropped down a little? Did you have the track on or just the skid sitting on the floor?

I did it completely backwards to what people are saying in this thread. I put the track on first, with the front of the sled on the floor and the back lifted. I put the skid in and dropped the back of the sled down, pulled back on the skid to take up the slack and verified the front mounting locations. I lifted the back up again, installed the front mounting plates and bolted the front of the skid in place (with the track on). Then I dropped the back of the sled again and made sure I could set the track tension without running out of adjustment (with the smaller drivers I was concerned about that). After I verified that everything was going to work, I marked the location of the rear hangers. I made sure the skid plane was correct for proper ski pressure, and most importantly the center to center distance between the front and rear mounting bolts must be correct or the suspension won't work properly.

I don't know if my method was completely backward from the correct method, but with 2 skids in 2 sleds they both worked out perfect. Maybe I just got lucky twice.

xrated · Dec 1, 2009

No track on at all....still have to buy one.

I'm retarded so help me out, if I raise the front mounts up, I'll raise the rear up as well?

Either way if I have to move my back hangers, how important is it that the running boards sits on the lip?

skis_n_skid · Dec 1, 2009

I was thinking more along the lines of drilling different holes in the hangers above the existing holes so that your front mounting locations are above the bottom of the tunnel.

xrated · Dec 1, 2009

skis_n_skid said:
I was thinking more along the lines of drilling different holes in the hangers above the existing holes so that your front mounting locations are above the bottom of the tunnel.

Yep I'm not what you call the brightest knife in the draw. That makes sense.

xrated · Dec 1, 2009

Well here is what I am at now

With the help of my begrudging wife I measured out my new mounting points for the skid. then I traced where the brackets should be and marked where to drill out for rivets. Had a dumb ace moment and used the wrong hanger at first, that's why I have 2 outlines

Then I realized my rivet gun wouldn't take 1/4" so I spent an hour and half not finding one, so I am using bolts for right now to hold it in place. Also got smart and labeled the brackets.

xrated · Dec 1, 2009

These are the best I can show how the front mounts are sitting....seem to be straight down and centered with the old mounts, just to far down

And this is how it's sitting right now. Sure all ready feels way different then the trailer rocket it was, and i haven't even gotten the taller steering post in.

skis_n_skid · Dec 1, 2009

With a track under it, the skid will sit higher than that. If you put 2x4s under the rails to lift the skid (both front and back), the front will probably be low enough that the front mounts will be inside the tunnel. Depending on how tall of track you're going to use, a 2x4 won't be lifing it as high as the track will.

How did you calclulate where to put the rear hangers? Are the fronts of the rails where they need to be? What happens if you get it all mounted and then take it back out, put a track on it and put it back on and there's not quite enough adjustment to get the track tensioned enough and the whole thing needs to be moved back 1/2 inch?

Before I mounted the backing plates for the front mounts, I drilled the 3/8 mounting bolt holes in the tunnel first and bolted the front torque arm in without the brackets to make sure the track fit properly before drilling any more holes in the tunnel (in case I had to move it I didn't want my tunnel to look like swiss cheese). To drill the small holes I just bolted the backing plate to the tunnel with a 3/8 bolt and nut, and drilled the holes from the inside with the backing plate as a template.

Personally, I would put the track on it before drilling any more holes in the tunnel, but I always err on the side of caution and triple check everything 4 times.

xrated · Dec 1, 2009

Well from what I was told I should be good to go just from measuring center to center on the skid and making the rear bracket match that number from the front. As for if I put the track on(still have to buy it, this is a nickle and dime deal when the wife lets me) and I'm off for tension, well then chit I guess I'll make the adjustments.

Not a bad idea with the 2x4, I'll have to see next time I wrench.

polari1man · Dec 2, 2009

Check out http://jbshocks.com/tech.html and go to 136 mounting

99 XCSP to Monutain Sled Build

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