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98 Summit 500 hard to start

9

97exc

Member
Dec 14, 2008
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CO
When we took my wife's 500 out last weekend, it took about 20-25 pulls to get it started. I changed the plugs after about 15 pulls when it wouldn't start but it still took another 10-15 pulls to get it going. This is the first time it has given us trouble, it normally starts by the 3rd or 4th pull.

Once it started it had no problems running or re-starting on the ride.
 
D
Dec 30, 2010
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0
1
Sounds like your plugs needed changing, which you did. And if they werent firing on the first dozen pulls you might have flooded/fouled the cylinders and it took a few pulls with the new plugs to clear it up. Not a big deal or problem if that was indeed the case? If it happens again then you might have other issues like a sticking carb, might need some cleaning.
 
9

97exc

Member
Dec 14, 2008
163
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CO
We are still having starting issues (still runs just fine). Now it seems to need the throttle held in while pulling. Takes 5-10 pulls, and it seems to be building up to start, like with each pull it sounds closer to starting. When it does start, it runs rough for 10 sec or so and stalls. Giving it more throttle makes it bog and stall. The best technique we have found so far is to hold the throttle in til it starts, wait a few seconds, then SLOWLY apply throttle to get the idle RPM up enough to stay running. Once its been ridden a bit it will go back to starting on first pull unless it sits for a long time or is tipped over.

It could probably use a carb clean (has maybe 500 miles this season), anything else that could be causing our issues? Once its running its fine, maybe just a hair stinkier/smokier than at the start of the season.
 

summ8rmk

Most handsome
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i have a 98 500 summit that is the same way. its flooding a little. if u hold the throttle wide open and it starts easier then u need to clean the carbs. its probably the needle and seat not closing all the way or maybe the floats need to be lowered.
 
R
My 98 Summit 500 became hard to start this season as well. In fact, your starting description sounded just like mine. I would check your high altitude compensator (H.A.C.) too. 99% of the time it fails on the rich side. Essentially the HAC is a sealed bladder inside a small can that expands and contracts with changes in altitude and temperature. It's mounted on the airbox. The bladder controls a needle valve that varies the fuel pressure inside the float bowls. Long story short, my bladder was deflated, it was running overly rich. I fixed it via instructions from another doo forum - google "H.A.C. unveiled". Now, I'm back to normal starting, good performance and my spark plugs look great.

If your HAC has been disconnected and discarded and many have, I'd agree with the others, your carbs should come off for disassembly and cleaning. I've done five sets for myself and friends this year and only one required new parts. Most were gunked up in one way or another and all are running and starting great again.

Send me a PM, if you want more insight on the HAC fix.

Good luck,
Dan
 
9

97exc

Member
Dec 14, 2008
163
19
18
CO
Dan, I will look into this tonight. Still have the H.A.C. but haven't serviced it so I'll definitely take your advice and check it out. Thanks
 

Reeb

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And if it's not the HAC(which I would gravitate to) I would change the needle and seats to a Viton tip needle. This has helped pretty much every single rotary valve Rotax I've encountered. Easy starting, no more flooding when pointed downhill, harder to overfuel(with the primer) etc etc.
 
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