Throttle body removal/reassembly - '06 IQ

Ex-Member · Jun 30, 2008

Machine's a 2006 RMK 900 151"... Next project is to replace the throttle body boots as the ones on it now are cracked. Got replacements on order, hopefully they're here by thursday. I looked through the '05 Deep Snow service manual and couldn't find anything real helpful for gettin the TB off then back on again.

The coolant system's drained, did that to remove the front radiator (Kudos to , the eliminator kit came with easy-to-follow directions and it's quality parts). Y-pipe's off, gaskets were leaking and gettin oil everywhere (New gaskets on order as well). Oil hasn't gotten to the stator, sled's performing fine electrically and there's no physical evidence of oil on/near/in it. I think it's just messy but not causing any real damage yet. This will be cleaned up when I get the TB off.

What's the best way to get those boots off and new ones on? Do I need to unhook and remove the TB assembly entirely, or can I just pull it out of the way?

While I'm in there, is there anything I need to look for on the reeds? Sled's got 56hrs/920mi on it... do they need to be cleaned or just looked at? I know the gap needs to be <.015"; I can do that easy enough.

Now for everyone's favorite part:

Cracked PTO-side boot, oil from leaky Y-pipe gasket

chopper · Jun 30, 2008

mine are like that, i didnt think it was a problem?

donbrown · Jun 30, 2008

chopper said:
mine are like that, i didnt think it was a problem?

Any air coming in from those boots will cause a lean condition and might scorch the cyl / piston.

Since you are messing with the throttle it is a good idea to replace/upgrade the throttle/oil cable with aftermarket upgrade.

and check / reset the TPS.

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?p=683477#post683477

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72725

Plus ... taking lots of pics for reassembly is a good helper !!!

mountainhorse · Jun 30, 2008

Pull the exhaust Y pipe. Looks like you need new gaskets for this anyway

Remove the oiler cable at the trottle cable side on the throttle body (if you dont do this first you will ruin it.

Remove the throttle cable from the throttle body and place it to the side

Disconnect the TPS connector (this is a good time to replace it as the wires in there go bad often... inside of the insulation)

Clamp off the coolant hoses going into the throttle body and remove them (twist them slightly to break the bond between the hose and tube)

Loosen the worm clamps on the boots to throttle body.

Rock the throttle body a bit and tilt it up/pull to remove it from the boots.

Remove the 12 bolts holding the boots onto the reed cages.

Pull the boots off...they are probably stuck to the reed blocks.. no gaskets there, just o ring seals on them.

This is the time to inspect/replace the oiler cable if it is sticking and to clean up this whole area.

I highly recommend that you get fatboyfrenchies throttle/oiler cable upgrade and run that on your sled for more reliablily. Most of the time the oiler cable is broken at the brass elbow and needs to be replaced anyway... fatboys cable fixes this problem... have a look at the post.

This is a good time to clean out the reed cages and inspect them for any damage. Use mineral spirt paint thinner for this... Brake cleaner or carb cleaner can be too hard on the reeds and soften them a bit.

mountainhorse · Jun 30, 2008

What airbox are you running.... The SLP box seems to crack up the boots faster than the others since the airbox is attached to the front end plastic which flexes a lot.

The TPS pigtail replacement is part number 2203165 and costs about $30... The wire used in the stock 900's sux big time and causes big problems. This is a good peace of mind project to keep you riding, not wrenching during the season.

mountainhorse · Jun 30, 2008

Oh... and when you take it on the first ride, bring some rags and a quart of 50/50 coolant with you to top off the sytem... it takes a bit to bleed the air out of the system.. even when you elevate the front of the sled.

Ex-Member · Jun 30, 2008

What's involved in removing the oiler/throttle cable? My oil tank's pretty full, am I going to make a mess doing this? Coolant's all drained out, there may be some sitting in the bottom but that's nothing that a paper towel can't sop up.

Y-pipe's already off. I'll take a look at the connector, that's the kind of stuff I do for a living so I can probably find or fix it pretty easy if it is broken. May throw some heatshrink on there for stress relief anyways.

I'm still using the stock airbox... it's hueg but works; that'll probably be next year.

I think exhaust valves are another thing I'll clean mid-season... the mag side was real gunked up and stickin a bit.

As far as reassembly goes, is it as straightforward as bolting it all back together, topping off fluids and pulling the cord? No special startup procedures? First sled, still on the rising edge of the learning curve...

donbrown · Jun 30, 2008

Mule said:
What's involved in removing the oiler/throttle cable? My oil tank's pretty full, am I going to make a mess doing this? Coolant's all drained out, there may be some sitting in the bottom but that's nothing that a paper towel can't sop up.
QUOTE]

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46926

Already posted it for you .... here it is again !

The person who knows all about removing / replacing the oiler/throttle cable is discussed in the above thread.

Ex-Member · Jun 30, 2008

didn't really answer my question... unless there's something i'm missing

if I *don't* replace it... is it as simple as unhooking it then hooking it up again once i'm done?

mountainhorse · Jun 30, 2008

The oil lines do NOT get removed... just the cables...

The oil hoses go from the tank to the pump...you are not removing either.

On your exhaust valves... upgrade to the new bellows for them... the originals have been upgraded a few times since... the new ones you will get from Polaris (if they order them) will all be the new bellows.

The stock airbox is actually pretty good (IMO... better than the SLP) ... just need to vent the clutch side panel and cover the underside of the airbox with some aluminum to act as a scatter shield. unscrew the lid and remove the inner baffle tube.
Run the inexpensive Fire N Ice Combo air intake on the console and make sure the headlight/air chamber is sealed well.

Here is where the TPS wires break... the break was INSIDE the wire insulation and looked/felt good from the outside.

FNI combo intakes

donbrown · Jun 30, 2008

Mule said:
didn't really answer my question... unless there's something i'm missing

if I *don't* replace it... is it as simple as unhooking it then hooking it up again once i'm done?

ZYa I rewad thru the post and it doesn't have a listed proceedure. Like MH said you don't touch the oil resevoir.

A detailed procedure comes with a cable from fatboyfrenchy . Since your are touching / removing the throttle oil cable on the engine you are 80% done in replacing the cable. The cable cost me around $95 shipped.

Cable seems superior in quality to stock.

Ex-Member · Jun 30, 2008

Okay, it's starting to make sense looking at it moar but i'm still cornfused about the oiler cable removal. It's the top yellow circle that needs to come off, no? Lower one appears to be tied to the throttle cable itself. There's maybe an inch between that and the aluminum support on the right side... does that support need to come off? Looks like there's something holding the drive shaft down, is that just a rubber bumper or is it attached to something?

Once that's off it looks like it'll come off after loosening those hose clamps. Looks like it'll take a while to clean this thing... any hints for that from those that have done it?

I think I will get that cable dealie too....

mountainhorse · Jul 1, 2008

I'm sorry, i forgot...

Pull the belt, the primary and the brace that connects the bulkhead over the PTO...

Good time to pull your clutch apart, change that spring to a new one and send it out for balance.

Once this stuff is off, you will have access to the 10mm nut on the cable.. loosen that and pull the cable thru the slot in the bracket... Pull the cable out and roll the lead end out of the slot in the throttle-cable plate on the throttle body.

A bit of a PITA, but easily doable.

mountainhorse · Jul 1, 2008

I bet 50 cents that your oiler cable is broken already

mountainhorse · Jul 1, 2008

This may help

river · Jul 1, 2008

mountainhorse said:
What airbox are you running.... The SLP box seems to crack up the boots faster than the others since the airbox is attached to the front end plastic which flexes a lot.

The TPS pigtail replacement is part number 2203165 and costs about $30... The wire used in the stock 900's sux big time and causes big problems. This is a good peace of mind project to keep you riding, not wrenching during the season.

What do these wires chaff ,or crack,causing the TPS to not work right? and the replacement one has what thicker wires?

Ex-Member · Jul 1, 2008

Ick... okay... Clutch I was goign to have a dealer go through, weights/spring and clean it up. I don't have the tools to pull a clutch apart, but if it slips off easily... what's involved in just getting that off? Is it just the one bolt torqued to 96 ft-lbs? Brace looks easy enough to get off, all the bolts appear to be accessible.

I think oiler cable's OK, action seems smooth and it moves through the whole range of motion and returns to idle position. It's a little gunked up but still moves.

TPS wires look real easy to replace if they do break.... mine don't look too stressed. I'll take a closer look when I get some time to do so.

mountainhorse · Jul 1, 2008

The wires are not the best quality to start with and the crimping is a bit overdone

There is usually no sign of a problem as they break inside of the wire insulation and do not pull out.

The new pigtail seems to be better quality than the ones that are in the harness...
On the 900's the chaffe protection on all the wires is pretty pizz-poor. pay special attention to the harness coming out of the stator to the regulator.

Dont overtighten the zip ties used to secure the harness.

For the primary clutch, you will need to use a clutch puller once the bolt is out... the procedure is in your service manual.

I would still strongly recommend the Fatboyz cable.... makes service easier and is much less prone to breakage.

Ex-Member · Jul 1, 2008

Urg. I was hoping I wouldn't need special tools for that (I don't have a clutch puller).

Ex-Member · Jul 2, 2008

mountainhorse said:
I'm sorry, i forgot...

Pull the belt, the primary and the brace that connects the bulkhead over the PTO...

Good time to pull your clutch apart, change that spring to a new one and send it out for balance.

Once this stuff is off, you will have access to the 10mm nut on the cable.. loosen that and pull the cable thru the slot in the bracket... Pull the cable out and roll the lead end out of the slot in the throttle-cable plate on the throttle body.

A bit of a PITA, but easily doable.

Sorry for all the questions... but is it just that 10mm nut that comes off, then the TB can come off? There's enough room for me to get a wrench in there on that nut (Red circle), and I can get to the "Remove this nut completely"...

I don't think I *need* to yank off the primary and brace...

Throttle body removal/reassembly - '06 IQ

ACCOUNT CLOSED

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

ACCOUNT CLOSED

Well-known member

ACCOUNT CLOSED

Well-known member

Well-known member

ACCOUNT CLOSED

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

ACCOUNT CLOSED

Well-known member

ACCOUNT CLOSED

ACCOUNT CLOSED

Similar threads