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M Series Sidehill Setup

J

jim

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
1,014
635
113
Boise
I'll bet you took right off again and ripped right out to didn't ya.

LOL. Yeah, this was well below the primary sidehill line my buddies took and just above a steep V'd creek...sled was on the verge of sliding/rolling downhill. I waited...radio'd my buddies and got help with turning the sled 180 (where it was near the creek bottom once we turned it 180 and it slid down) and barely got out across the other side of the creek. Didn't repeat that line. Wasn't smart. Was fun.
 

Thunder101

Well-known member
Premium Member
Feb 7, 2008
1,303
191
63
OP lip stick away !!!
#1-The 2.6 track is the biggest
36” arms
Then the rear shock or my
thing is putting Proclimb rails
on it and move the mounting
holes 2” forward , getting the
suspension more under you.

And remember in this thread everyone is comparing
A 40” wide low sled to 36” wide tall sleds. Make the old M
36” wide and a bit taller and it will work better.
 
Z

zdogg

New member
Mar 1, 2009
20
0
1
54
My 162 Pro-Lite full of fuel with it's big tank, and my friends lightweight M7 (800 big bore) 162 full of fuel weighed within 7lb of each other on the same scales on the same day. His just felt heavier and did not handle as easily as mine due to geometry and how the weight was carried.

I personally do not like running low pressures in the front shocks. Especially on the M-series. It may make the sled feel like it's rolling easier initially, but puts the front end too low to the ground once it's up on edge: makes it push through the snow, not absorb bumps well since there is not enough stroke left, and require more effort to make it change directions. Think about what it feels like to balance a full 55 gallon barrel on it's edge and move around.

On the M1000 it helped to drill the front arm mount 3/4" lower in the tunnel. Helped lift the heavy front end and feel lighter. Holes were already in the reinforcement bracket inside the tunnel. Just had to drill them through.
Is your M1000 a 10/11. I was thinking about lowering my front arm as well in my 10 XF/M to lift it. I'm running M front end with SLP skis pushed in. Should I do the Carl's cut? Also thinking about improving the rear skid shock. Is the Be iramdt Upgade kit still a thing or I was going to try a Fox 3 since it's the same length. Might be coming out west this Jan for first ride. Oh and I'm doing 153M skid with PC 2.25
 

boondocker97

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Oct 30, 2008
4,074
2,792
113
Billings MT
Is your M1000 a 10/11. I was thinking about lowering my front arm as well in my 10 XF/M to lift it. I'm running M front end with SLP skis pushed in. Should I do the Carl's cut? Also thinking about improving the rear skid shock. Is the Be iramdt Upgade kit still a thing or I was going to try a Fox 3 since it's the same length. Might be coming out west this Jan for first ride. Oh and I'm doing 153M skid with PC 2.25
The M1000 we have is a 2009, but same as a 2010 and 2011. It's a 162 length sled so even with dropping the front arm it has some extra track to make up for the loss in approach angle. I haven't run the Carl's cut before so I can't comment on that. The Burandt rear shock upgrade kit does make a difference, but I believe it's been discontinued. I haven't been able to find one in a couple years.
 
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