RSI Throttle Block

boondocker97 · Jan 2, 2018

Has anyone used the RSI billet throttle block kit before? Anything you didn't like about it?

http://www.rsiracing.com/ARCTIC-CAT-BILLET-THROTTLE-BLOCK_p_88.html

My TSS has been acting up and I'm getting tired of it bogging and giving me fits when I'm trying to get going. My stock throttle block seems to rotate slightly when I ride too so I have to rotate it back where I want it a few times throughout the day. This seems to be cleanest way to remedy both issues. I'm not a fan of cutting a bunch of wires up if I don't have to so the plug & play aspect is appealing. The $200 price tag is a little hard to swallow though.

kidwoo · Jan 2, 2018

Disconnect your TSS and tighten your throttle block?

Fish10782 · Jan 2, 2018

I have one on both my proclimb and ascender. They are pretty nice so far. One season on the proclimb and just put the one on my ascender. I got them CHEAP though kimpex. AND they are the heated throttle block ones.

Hardest part was removing the retaining clip from the throttle pin of the factory throttle block. I destroyed it on my proclimb but the ascender clip fell off easily.

Deciding what to do with the extra wires was also a minor issue.

I bought two from the ebay.... They were Arctic cat wiring put into a throttle block of another machine so beware..

You will have to adjust the throttle cable. I put mine so the throttle bodies are 100% open right when the throttle hits the handle bar. That way I don't brake the plastic throttle during a hard hit wide open deal.

boondocker97 · Jan 2, 2018

kidwoo said:
Disconnect your TSS and tighten your throttle block?

Just disconnecting it is the secondary option and will happen if I don't replace the whole thing. I've got the screws in the stocker as tight as they will go without stripping out the plastic. The little pin that's supposed to dig in and hold it from rotating isn't quite doing the job. Aftermarket chromoly bars and the pin is about the same height as the paint is thick. Then the bar is too hard for it to dig in. Had the same issue with the stock bars too. Guessing it got loose the first time and rubbed until the pin was dull?

I thought about the extra wires. There's quite a few packed in that stock housing. I figured I could double them over, tape them, and then extend the wire loom over them if needed.

kidwoo · Jan 3, 2018

Beef up the bar with some electrical tape.

ultrasks700 · Jan 3, 2018

Its a nice way to clean up the throttle block, the only downfall is the price. for about 50-60$ you can have Sno-pro style throttle block with two momentary switches. Yeah the RSI is a little bit cleaner, but you pay for it

bgraff1 · Jan 3, 2018

I have the RSI and I love it. really cleans up the bars especially with the handwarmers deleted. I did have the kill switch fail on me so I was having to use the tether to shutoff the sled. they warrantied it no issue and sent me a new one once they received the old one

schnid21 · Jan 3, 2018

RSI Heated Block

I have the RSI heated block on my Proclimb. It does the job, but I don't know if it is worth what I had to pay for it.

I find the kill switch can be tough to hold down long enough to shut the engine off. You will never accidentally shut the sled off though. You really have to push and its a small area. Easy with thin or no gloves on, but with thicker gloves sometimes I find the sled will start to shut off, then my finger slips and it fires back up. I just use the key now. I've debated mounting a kill switch similar to the Polaris and not using the RSI one.

I have also had issues with the heated part of it. The heat works really well as long as the sled is never shut off, the snow will melt and turn to water. As soon as the sled is shut off and the heat stops, any half melted snow that is around the throttle where it pivots starts to freeze up and turns to rock solid ice. Its resulted in my throttle sticking several times. I think I am going to try disconnecting the heat connector and see if that issue goes away.

If I was doing it again I would probably investigate the sno pro version like someone mentioned.

boondocker97 · Jan 3, 2018

Hmmm, I wasn't aware that these were heated. That makes sense why they cost so much then. The Doo and Polaris ones are only $130 and the little reverse button they add with the cat one isn't worth $70.

boondocker97 · Jan 3, 2018

kidwoo said:
Beef up the bar with some electrical tape.

The overall diameter isn't the issue. I put some tape over my heating elements under my grips to hopefully avoid long term damage to them if a grip slips. The heat from the element makes the tape greasy which is not fun when the grip wants to slide off! With the block being that close to the element on the steel bar I'm guessing I'd end up in a similar situation if the heaters were left on very long.

schnid21 · Jan 4, 2018

boondocker97 said:
Hmmm, I wasn't aware that these were heated. That makes sense why they cost so much then. The Doo and Polaris ones are only $130 and the little reverse button they add with the cat one isn't worth $70.

I'm not sure if they are all heated anymore. If I remember right RSI used to offer a heated and a non heated version. I don't see that option on their webpage anymore. And I don't see mention of it being heated in the description. Maybe they don't offer that option.

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RSI Throttle Block

boondocker97

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boondocker97

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