R
Help! I need ideas on how to fix this.
Cracked tunnel
- Thread starter rollthecoal
- Start date
S
Sheet metal both sides and lots of rivets. You'll want to put 2-times the length of yer crack on both sides. If you have a 4 inch crack use 8" x 4" plates. Space yer rivets 1/2-3/4 of an inch apart. Use can also fab up tunnel stiffners and or remod aftermarket ones.........
C
Hmm, where is that in relation to the "tunnel extension" joint? Looks odd, almost like its been molested once already... Short of pulling the rivets, getting it tigged up, maybe a stiffener made up, i dont really know what to say man, sorry.
D
Looks like you broke the rear suspention hanger. You will need to fabricate a new bracket that extends a few inches longer and replace the broken one along with a plate on the outside too. I would also tig and grind it flat before installing the added plates.
Ive got some cracks starting on mine too could a guy drill a small hole on the bottom of the crack to stop it and then plate it?
B
That should stop the crack from continuing. But, you need to fix the reason it is doing it.
H
I have welded many cracks with good results. I have a sled once that cartwheeled bad and ripped the rear half of tunnel in several spots. Pulled wrinkles and and welded it up. A good repair considering the correct repair was to replace.
I agree!!! It looks like he likes to do bumper smacking wheelies:beer;:beer;
Carrying gerry can and bumps I think started my crack.
M
What year and length is it,just looked at our 07 M8 and it looks totally different. Thought maybe a new tunnel extension would fix it.
M
Mine did the same thing a couple of years ago just in a different spot. Had to baby it out of the mountains with a strap tied from the rear bumper to the steering post to hold the extension and cooler up out of the track.
I took .120 (1/8") aluminum plate on the inside of the tunnel about 6-8" either side of the crack and riveted the hell out of it. I could stand on my extension now and it doesn't sag a bit.
I took .120 (1/8") aluminum plate on the inside of the tunnel about 6-8" either side of the crack and riveted the hell out of it. I could stand on my extension now and it doesn't sag a bit.
D
I agree a plate a rivets
R
It's a 2007 M1000 with a fabcraft tunnel. I had a chance to look at it in the daylight and discovered that the rivets on the top of the tunnel extension had come out, which put all the stress on the sides. I drilled out the remaining rivets and bolted it back together for now. I plan on plating the sides and either riveting or bolting it all together.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
P
Drill out the crack end with a small...maybe 1/8 drill. Fatigue cracks can grow under low stress fields even when supported. But here is what the F-16 sheet metal repair people do here at Hill AFB. Once you get the reinforcing plate fabricated. I would recomend a larger drop bracke plate of .060 stainless. Match drill the holes. THEN COAT THE PLATE AND TUNNEL WITH A THIN COATING OF RTV ON THE JOINT SURFACES. I have access to skin pins...but you can tighten the plate to the tunnel with 3/16 screws to squeeze out the excess RTV. Then once the RTV is cured...it might take a while...remove one screw at a time and rivet. You can cut stainless with a jig saw, but turn the speed way, way down and use cutting fluid. Stainless will harden with heat. Same with drilling. Drill slow and don't dwell. It likes to heat that thin material right before your drill pops through and break the drill. I like that green water soluable cutting fluid because it tends to cling and stay because you will be drilling on a vertical face. As for welding. If you know of an aluminum welding GOD that can make a cosmetic weld it might be okay. Typically sheet metal that can be bent has a fairly low heat treat, but welding will completely wipe that out if there is one...so clearly you need a reinforcing plate on the back.
sorry so long winded....
Karl
sorry so long winded....
Karl
R
here's a pic of the fix
