2018 Clutch or 3" Track

boondocker97 · Jan 15, 2018

Here's the sled: 2014 900 bmp engine in 2017 MC chassis, all practical lightweight mods already done, 162 2.6 track, belt drive, and Kmod. Still using 2014 clutches and 2015 jackshaft. I'll be riding this sled through this season and at least all of next.

Clutches have 1800 miles on them. Need a new primary spring, weights are getting chattered on the face, rollers still free and smooth, no binding but movable sheave is starting to get some play in it. Basically with the power I'm running it's rolling up to the point of rebuild or replace it before I have a failure. I also need to buy a new belt at this point. I weighed the options rebuilding it vs replacing and I can replace it with a new takeoff 2018 primary, new weights, spring, and new belts for $8-900.

Now I just came across a deal for a 3" PC track. $700 new takeoff. Add buying a new belt and spring for my current. Clutch and I'll be looking at the same money. Could probably get a few hundred bucks back out of the 2.6 since it's still in good shape.

I'll be doing both of these mods before next season, but can likely only afford one for this season. So what the crowd say: new clutch or gamble with what I have for 500 miles more and get the 3" put on?

dboivin · Jan 15, 2018

new clutch is pretty dang good.

kiliki · Jan 15, 2018

Clutching now.

Motorbreath_ · Jan 15, 2018

1800 miles isn't a lot. I'd go for the track. I put a 3 inch on my turbo viper this year, completely changed the sled.. and that's only a 153. I don't know if I'll ever not have a 3 inch track again.

boondocker97 · Jan 15, 2018

1800 miles isn't a ton but very few of them have been easy. I had a spider give out on me at 2500 miles before on another sled, and what I've heard from others on here that's the point you find out if it's going to have issues. . Guy at work just came over and asked me about working on his clutch: 2300 miles on a M8 and seized a roller. One thing I'd like to improve with my sled is the bottom end response. I feel like the new clutch would help with that.

On the other hand with my Kmod and drop and rolled driveshaft I'm getting less weight transfer than with the stock skid. Now I can feel the 2.6 spinning at times instead of hooking up and driving forward. The extra bite of the 3" might remedy this situation. I seem to have no issues getting places I maybe shouldn't be though. The 3" might make it harder to get some assistance from friends when I am really stuck somewhere!

Vern · Jan 15, 2018

I've been riding cat since 06 and it's been like clockwork that I'd lose a roller or crack a spider right around 2k miles. Was on my third on my m7 when i sold it with 5k miles on it and last season at about 1900 miles my 14 lost a roller. So at this point I'd go for the clutch. There's always the track "mod" to get a little more performance out of your 2.6", but it might hurt resale if your dead set on goin to the 3" in the future.

summ8rmk · Jan 15, 2018

I seized a roller at 900mi. On my 14.
I'd say ur primary is on borrowed time.

Mountain Cat

Old & slow · Jan 16, 2018

Wants and needs

You need a clutch and want a 3 "PC. You know if you buy the track the clutch will fail Murphy's Law. The other thing is there is extra load or stress on the clutch with the bigger lug. Maybe a good used clutch for cheap, you can get the track and have a little insurance. Good luck

M8onEdge · Jan 16, 2018

Go for the clutches. The old clutches suck. I have had 3 spider failures and in really tough snow way too much heat. With MDS weights I can easily hold my hand on the new clutches even when running hard. I’m not as impressed by the 3” as others. If the snow is harder in spring it folds and spins. Definitely a deep snow track but I ride late in the year and find the 2.6 better for that.

89sandman · Jan 16, 2018

I'd rather have the track and buy the clutch when you need it. That way you get both

sno*jet · Jan 16, 2018

id do the track and see if any more updates come with the 18 clutches. has anyone else noticed the belt slip when trying to reverse an 18 in deep heavy snow?

eldereldo · Jan 16, 2018

sno*jet said:
id do the track and see if any more updates come with the 18 clutches. has anyone else noticed the belt slip when trying to reverse an 18 in deep heavy snow?

Yeh did that to me, had to give it more throttle to get it to start moving, almost like it wasn’t engaging the reverse notch?

boondocker97 · Jan 17, 2018

sno*jet said:
id do the track and see if any more updates come with the 18 clutches. has anyone else noticed the belt slip when trying to reverse an 18 in deep heavy snow?

This has happened on my 14 setup before too. I run the deflection pretty tight and I wonder if in deep snow it makes the sheaves start to shift apart too quick when the track first slips before the roller can catch the notch.

9071000 · Jan 18, 2018

I have done both and the track was a much better bang for the buck

Allseasons · Jan 18, 2018

sno*jet said:
id do the track and see if any more updates come with the 18 clutches. has anyone else noticed the belt slip when trying to reverse an 18 in deep heavy snow?

Yes mine is doing this. Even backing out of the trailer I have slippage.

boondocker97 · Jan 19, 2018

It looks like the scales are tipping toward sinking some money into the clutches. I got into some deep, heavy snow and I'm not getting the backshift I should anymore. If I put the sled into a hard downhill carve and really load it up it will drop the RPM from 8100 to 7700 and it won't regain it back unless I completely let out of the throttle and get back into it. I'm guessing my secondary is binding under load. I'll dig into it this weekend and see how bad of shape it's in. If the secondary is in need of work then I'll have to decide what my best overall option is.

boondocker97 · Jan 30, 2018

Well I got a 2018 primary with MDS weights and a Tied secondary on the way. I hope it is noticeably better than what I have now for the investment.

Something I hadn't thought of is the bolt holding the primary on. I suppose I'm going to have to change it to the new one too?

Edit: Cat part diagrams are showing the same part number for the washer and bolt to hold the clutch on for 2014 and 2018 so I should be alright there.

yz250_ · Jan 31, 2018

boondocker97 said:
It looks like the scales are tipping toward sinking some money into the clutches. I got into some deep, heavy snow and I'm not getting the backshift I should anymore. If I put the sled into a hard downhill carve and really load it up it will drop the RPM from 8100 to 7700 and it won't regain it back unless I completely let out of the throttle and get back into it. I'm guessing my secondary is binding under load. I'll dig into it this weekend and see how bad of shape it's in. If the secondary is in need of work then I'll have to decide what my best overall option is.

I would still go track. Clutching can be played with with weights, helix and springs. Traction is just traction. The 3" tracks just motor even with a lower track speed

boondocker97 · Jan 31, 2018

yz250_ said:
I would still go track. Clutching can be played with with weights, helix and springs. Traction is just traction. The 3" tracks just motor even with a lower track speed

Yes, as long as everything in the clutches is up to spec and working as it should. My setup worked before, but it's not working correctly any longer. Adjusting for worn clutches with different springs and helix angle alone is a band aid fix IMO. Adding the 3" load would make my current problem worse. This way hopefully everything will be in order when that 3" makes its way on there.

summ8rmk · Jan 31, 2018

To be honest, i am a bit worried about the 18 clutch.

Alpha Cat......

2018 Clutch or 3" Track

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Most handsome

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Most handsome

Similar threads