DIY headlight delete using stock parts

carlc · Nov 21, 2014

catothom said:
Or you can fab up a big block of plate to put on top of the big hole where the headlight use to be, like the one on the BDX hood.

Then you don`t get that big area full of snow

Then move your sensor down to the intake in front to get better throttle response. I did the SLP relocate kit so I don`t have to cut any stock cables.

Do some venting in front so you get enough air

That's exactly what I did when my 12 was brand new. I took the headlight out, cut out the recessed area where the light used to sit, then got a piece of lexan to fit in its place, silicone and some black paint and she looks as good as any kit I've seen

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catothom · Nov 21, 2014

A thin piece of aluminum works good too. I know a guy over here that have done that after getting the measurements of my BDX hood

I think I will do that to my hood too, because the plate from BDX are flimsy and are only attached in front and in the rear. Not on the sides

A aluminum plate is more rigid, you can use pop rivets to hold the instrument rack down and the small amount of weight you add, you want notice

samsquatch47 · Nov 21, 2014

polarisfornow said:
Maybe contact reaper motorsports on here and get his intake kit. Its the cheapest around and is great for a diy'er. I did it to mine and couldn't be happier.

Reaper is not making kits anymore. He's too busy at work and has no time. He's sold the design and idea to EVO. Supposedly they will be releasing their version this winter. Time will tell if it's as nice as the kits Reaper used to sell.

sillyrabbit0420 · Nov 21, 2014

j hoalst said:
just did the bdx hood tonight on my buddies rig. im pretty sure that bdx hood is just a cat hood all vented out with a plastic cover to have a flat top.

That's what it is.
You can get the rectangle shaped pieces on the sides. The other piece I'm certain could be sourced from BDX, as you said.

sillyrabbit0420 · Nov 22, 2014

OK... next idea to improve this intake situation.
I just found a significant amount of Frogskinz vents that I had left over from another project. I'm going to fit these on the front of the hood, pretty much like the BDX one to allow some more air into the intake. No big deal.

Can anyone describe the location or post a pic of the relocated mass air sensor (SLP)?
Is there any reason I shouldn't extend my existing wiring and relocate the stock mass air sensor?
I haven't seen the SLP one, so I'm not sure if it's as simple as moving the stock sensor or if it comes with an aftermarket sensor.

I do know that if you eff with this in a car, for example, you can make some serious problems for yourself. The mass air sensor is calibrated for a specific diameter of tubing, and randomly placing it elsewhere will throw off the readings it sends to the computer, thusly completely f*cking up your fuel/air ratios.

I don't know if the mass air sensor in a sled is as advanced or finely tuned as the one in a car.

Any ideas?

Chewy22 · Nov 22, 2014

With the SLP kit it just relocates the stock sensor. Uses a wire extension, advantage is it has quick release connectors at both ends, but could be DIY. The sensor is moved to the intake boot - on top. Sorry I don't have pixs but it works well.

sillyrabbit0420 · Nov 22, 2014

Disregard last post. I found it.

sillyrabbit0420 · Nov 22, 2014

Chewy22 said:
With the SLP kit it just relocates the stock sensor. Uses a wire extension, advantage is it has quick release connectors at both ends, but could be DIY. The sensor is moved to the intake boot - on top. Sorry I don't have pixs but it works well.

Thanks, bud.

j hoalst · Nov 22, 2014

on the bdx setup we just cut and spliced the air sensor per their instructions. relocated it right behind the ecu in the intake box. and if u look in the intake you can see the air sensor right there in front of the tb's. i would think this is a much more accurate reading of air temp and density than the oem spot

sillyrabbit0420 · Nov 22, 2014

Sweet.
Well... today I drilled the airbox and covered that section with some Frogskinz. Looks sweet. It won't be visible with the cowling sections on. I don't know if I'm going to get to the sensor relocation just yet. It's a great idea. It looks simple. I'm just tired of having the sled apart. Messing with one thing only causes me to go down a rabbit-hole (Sillyrabbit) and then I have to tinker with other sh*t. Sled hasn't been in one piece since May.

I'm need to rivet the steering boots back on after my a-arm swap, slap the hood, skid plate, and bumper back on, and I'm gonna call it good until I get out and do a test ride.

Since May I added 162" X3 track with IceAge Bomber rails, Avid seven-tooth drivers, VEI tunnel extension and bumper, Rasmussen Airframes, Z Bros A-arms, Rox Riser mod, gearing changes, and probably some other crap I forgot. Oh, and the headlight delete... It's going to be a whole different sled than the last time I rode it. I have to stop modding and start riding at some point. Fixin to head out on Thanksgiving weekend and see what's what.

Thanks for all input on the intake situation. This still might not be ideal, but will allow a ton more air in than the first version I came up with. There's the possibility that these vents will get covered with snow, too... though it allows much more air than the stock setup...
If you're riding in deep enough snow to where you're concerned about every intake inlet getting covered, then I guess you better run a godd@mn snorkel.

Pray for snow, suckas! I want to go try this thing out.

sillyrabbit0420 · Nov 22, 2014

Done... I'm not tearing anything back apart or buying more parts until I break something.

suitcase · Nov 22, 2014

Thanks for taking the time to post all the info. Looks real clean, be waiting to here how it does after some field testing!!

srxhair · Dec 31, 2017

Hello Rabbit,
I bought a 2016 M8000 with a headlight delete already done and I am working on rigging up an LED light for it. Did you have any stator or voltage regulator issues with your sled or did you do something to keep a load on the electrical system?

I found this on another thread and don't want to skip something and ruin a trip to the mountains or my stator.

Don't have an exact current output spec on the stator, but the following is from page 90 of the 2014 2 Stroke Service Manual:

For example, if the headlight and taillight are disabled,
the ECM will sense a high voltage condition and activate
the fail-safe mode. Adding more than 4 amps of accessories
will create a low voltage condition and activate the
fail-safe mode.

The fail-safe mode is an ECM operated engine RPM limiter.
When activated, the fail-safe mode will be seen as an
immediate loss of engine horsepower.

Thanks,

bgraff1 · Dec 31, 2017

been running headlight deleted for 5 years and 2 years also with handwarmers deleted with no ill effects. I run a 6" rigid light bar for light on the handlebars. youll be fine

srxhair · Dec 31, 2017

Thanks bgraff1,

That's good to know.

When the manual says: "if the headlight and taillight are disabled" it must mean that both need to be disconnected for the sled to go into limp mode.

Are you powering your light bar off the AC headlight circuit with a rectifier or from the 12v DC accessory circuit?

bgraff1 · Jan 1, 2018

srxhair said:
Thanks bgraff1,

That's good to know.

When the manual says: "if the headlight and taillight are disabled" it must mean that both need to be disconnected for the sled to go into limp mode.

Are you powering your light bar off the AC headlight circuit with a rectifier or from the 12v DC accessory circuit?

ive had many things disconnected and never ever even saw this "limp mode". my light bar is tied into the 12v DC wiring that used to go to the cig plug

srxhair · Jan 1, 2018

Thanks, that will be the way I connect too.

richardderkevorkian · Jan 1, 2018

srxhair said:
Thanks bgraff1,

That's good to know.

When the manual says: "if the headlight and taillight are disabled" it must mean that both need to be disconnected for the sled to go into limp mode.

Are you powering your light bar off the AC headlight circuit with a rectifier or from the 12v DC accessory circuit?

I've ran without a headlight and tailight for 3 seasons. No issues

yz250_ · Mar 4, 2018

So I finally had some deep snow to ride in and anytime the dash got snow on it, all the vents plug up. The stock Intake sits up higher and never plugged. I may make some type of filter intake like the turbo ones run to get more air intake surface area

DIY headlight delete using stock parts

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