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Silber Turbo AXYS, oil light/low rpms

snowracer21

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Guys,

I'm not sure where to start with this..

Sled: 2017 RMK Pro 800 155"
Silber turbo @ 5psi (non intercooled)
IS turbo 3 clutch kit
SLP torque arm

I had the sled dialed in, pulling 8350-8400 all day a few weeks ago. I had the clutching dialed in for the elevation I usually ride, so that's not it.

Now, It pulls 8050-8150.. doesn't feel nearly as strong...and on longer pulls, the oil light comes on. (not the check engine light) This is a new thing, idk what it could mean?

I made sure it wasn't because of low oil, I topped the oil tank off.

Sled feels like it still has good compression, but I haven't checked #s yet.
 
J

JJ_0909

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Guys,

I'm not sure where to start with this..

Sled: 2017 RMK Pro 800 155"
Silber turbo @ 5psi (non intercooled)
IS turbo 3 clutch kit
SLP torque arm

I had the sled dialed in, pulling 8350-8400 all day a few weeks ago. I had the clutching dialed in for the elevation I usually ride, so that's not it.

Now, It pulls 8050-8150.. doesn't feel nearly as strong...and on longer pulls, the oil light comes on. (not the check engine light) This is a new thing, idk what it could mean?

I made sure it wasn't because of low oil, I topped the oil tank off.

Sled feels like it still has good compression, but I haven't checked #s yet.

Few ideas...(I work for Silber)

I am yet to hear of one customer have this low oil light issue (as in the light comes on and it points to some other issue)


  • Check your primary clutch spring. It may be broken or fatigued.
  • Look at your exhaust valves. Clean them.
  • The low oil light is concerning and points to a possible electrical gremlin somewhere. This can be a pain to pinpoint.
  • Go plug your machine into digital wrench. There may be a code that shines some light on this.
  • How is the bottom end? It could be a boost leak (unlikely based off what you are describing)
  • Go ahead and look close at the oil lines. Make sure you aren't leaking somewhere (to the motor, turbo, etc)
 

AKFULLTHROTTLE

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Does the RPM only drop while the oil light is on?

Check your EV cable and then actually pull them out to inspect.
 

snowracer21

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Does the RPM only drop while the oil light is on?

Check your EV cable and then actually pull them out to inspect.

Sled has good compression, I haven't really dug into much else though, but I plan to this weekend.

This past weekend I was riding at about 6,000', temps were just below freezing.

On a straight stretch, at WOT, the sled would pull about 8000rpms most of the time, and then a couple times, it would pull 8250. WTF.

I attempted a long/steep side hill, a lot of throttle chopping, and after maybe 30 seconds or so into the side hill, I could feel the sled cutting out bad...the oil light was on, and the sled nearly died out, which forced me to turn out. The best way I could describe it: it felt like a dirt bike that was running wayyyy too rich and bogging out.

The oil tank was full, so IDK why the oil light is coming on... is it possible there is too much vacuum/cap isn't venting properly, in the oil tank and the engine isn't getting enough oil?
 

AKFULLTHROTTLE

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Well I would check you exhaust valve system over good. I have heard reports of sleds detuning while oil light is on but no real evidence. Guessing it has nothing to do with it but possible. Makes sure the wires going into that sensor are not messed up.
 

snowracer21

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Well I would check you exhaust valve system over good. I have heard reports of sleds detuning while oil light is on but no real evidence. Guessing it has nothing to do with it but possible. Makes sure the wires going into that sensor are not messed up.

is it possible to inspect/clean the EV guillotines, without using the digital wrench to relearn?
 
S
Oct 4, 2016
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yes just don't disconnect the cable. if you want to do it on the bench just take the whole assembly out as a whole. their are good detailed posts on the proses in the axys forums and I think they have picts to :)
 

snowracer21

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yes just don't disconnect the cable. if you want to do it on the bench just take the whole assembly out as a whole. their are good detailed posts on the proses in the axys forums and I think they have picts to :)

awesome, thank you!

just FYI, compression #s are:
PTO side: 115
Exhaust side: 118
engine was at operating temp.
 

AKFULLTHROTTLE

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I have pulled out many, replaced cables and so on with out ever needing a relearn. There is zero adjustment on them so not much to worry about unless when you replace a broke one and it is different for what ever reason. Pop the cable end off of the actuator then remove all the bolts holding the EV down to the block. Once loose just manually pull the EV cable while you pull the valve outs, this gives you more room. You may need to remove the steering block bolts down there for some extra room.
 

snowracer21

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pulled out the EV, they looked pretty good...had a little gunk built up in the cover, cleaned it up and reinstalled...

One thing i did notice, the oil pump appears to be slightly leaking, because there is a lot of fibers stuck to it (from blowing belts)

I have pulled out many, replaced cables and so on with out ever needing a relearn. There is zero adjustment on them so not much to worry about unless when you replace a broke one and it is different for what ever reason. Pop the cable end off of the actuator then remove all the bolts holding the EV down to the block. Once loose just manually pull the EV cable while you pull the valve outs, this gives you more room. You may need to remove the steering block bolts down there for some extra room.
 

snowracer21

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changed plugs...pulled the EV, cleaned...reinstalled.

Started sled on the stand and let it warm up...then did a couple WOT, and its only pulling 6500. WTF. idk what's wrong with this thing.

No codes either.
 

diamonddave

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I think you need to go after this oil light issue. I could see this possibly limiting RPM's although I can't verify 100%. Check wiring closely to the oil sensor and then unplug connector, check resistance values with oil in tank and oil drained or just replace it.
 

xmk1080

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If you are only pulling 6500 rpm after cleaning exhaust valves then you may have broken the cable housing. As far as your oil light then I would think that its probably just the sender bouncing around in there, I would just temporarily bypass it and see if it stays off. As far as you rpm's being low to begin with I would start with general maintenance, checking compression, plugs, clutch rollers, bushings, motor mounts, exhaust leaks, intake leaks, etc.
 

snowracer21

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Picked the sled up from the dealer a week ago, they relearned the EV, however the sled was not throwing any codes...so I took it out and got some riding in.

Just for the hell of it, i threw in the 3psi spring.

On the ride up the mountain, around 4500', I pulled a few small climbs and hit some pillows. the sled felt amazing. it was hitting 8350-8400, and felt super crisp.

then, we started climbing up the mountain..at around 7500' the sled was really lazy, and wasn't pulling rpms. If I went down hill, and pulled a 180 WOT back up the hill, the sled would take its sweet old time trying to pull RPMS, and would max out around 8100-8150.

I pulled a long climb, and then sidehill'd to this location I wanted to stop at, and the sled nearly died out on me.

At a damn loss on what it could be?

EGT sensor, maybe?
 

madmax

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Ever Inspected and/or replaced motor mounts or replaced your relays? Relays are famous for many axys gremlins.
 

madmax

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The attached Polaris team tip was sent out at the end of the 16’ season, but also pertains to the 17 and 18 and they have the same relays failure problems. Don’t know for sure if that’s your problem, but if you’ve never replaced your trusts it’s cheap and easy.
 

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snowracer21

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Just wanted to let everyone know the conclusion...

Replaced the EGT sensor & TPS... rode yesterday and the sled rips!

I'm thinking it was the EGT sensor, as the sled got worse the longer I was on the throttle.
 
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