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  #1  
Old 12-17-2017, 11:49 PM
tryanattak tryanattak is offline
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Default Lazy powervalves:

Through a lot of research I have read that the cause for the bog issue with the IQ sleds with cfi is lazy valves. Has anyone found a fix all for this situation or is the best option converting to carbs or getting rid of the sled. I bought an 09 RMK shift 600 155 last year and it only had 1800 miles on it. It is really nice clean sled but it has the intermittent bog issue at around 6500-6750 rpm. I have asked for help with the bog bit not received much input. So I figured try attacking this another way. Would upping compression help with the lazy valves to open them quicker? Any proven methods of fixing this issue. I really like the IQ chassis and have just returned to snowmobiling after a long hiatus do to a broken spine. I don't have enough money to just get rid of this one and get another sled. Please if you have proven fixes, please share them.
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  #2  
Old 12-18-2017, 10:30 AM
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Have you pulled the valves, cleaned them, cleaned the port through the cylinder, checked that you have the correct spring and that the vent hoses are operable?

Once the valves are clean, run them back into the slots to make sure the slots are clean.

If clean and all other parts to them are in good shape there is no reason it should be lazy.

Do you know what your compression is on each hole?
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Old 12-19-2017, 02:53 AM
tryanattak tryanattak is offline
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Yes we have done all of that. We actually disconnected the hoses last year as several people on here and other sites said they run much better with the hoses disconnected and plugged. It did help some it seemed but did not fix the problem. As I had posted in my other thread about intermittent bogging issues, we have replaced the fuel filter, adjusted the throttle cable play. We did compression check last season also and it was very good compression. I can't recall the numbers now but I know we ruled that out. I put new powervalve springs in for my elevation, new gaskets, and coated the valves with my fire clean gun oil. I figured if it keeps carbon from building up in my guns it should help with the power valves. I have even installed 64 gram weights in the primary clutch as people have suggested. The bog according to doing research is actually caused by lazy power valves. I just have not read of a fix so far. It would seem logical if the valves are opening too slowly that a lighter weight spring would help. Guess I will try that.
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Old 12-19-2017, 08:49 AM
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We ran blue/white springs.
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Old 12-19-2017, 10:04 AM
tryanattak tryanattak is offline
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Did you have an issue with the intermittent bog? If so did this fix your issue?
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Old 12-19-2017, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tryanattak View Post
Did you have an issue with the intermittent bog? If so did this fix your issue?
Not at our elevation, we needed lighter springs to get the valves to open. We ran the Blue/whites or Blue. They are the same value.
From ‘06 the 600’s never left the shop without the switch.
I’d check again. Make sure those EV ports are open in the cylinders. They can be trouble. Mechanics wire to clean them and a light through the ex. Port into the cylinder to guarantee they are clean.
Make sure the gasket isn’t leaking around the port, it definitely was/has been an issue. Next make sure the plastic hose barb is tight in the solenoid.
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  #7  
Old 12-19-2017, 01:59 PM
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We ran a wire through and it did not hit any obstruction and came out pretty clean. I can certainly check again though more for the blown out gasket. I cleaned the valves very well last season and I use Amsoil and like I stated I used my Fire clean gun cleaner and lubricant on the valves to help keep carbon from sticking to them. That stuff works great in firearms so I figured what could it hurt to try it. I currently have the pink springs in it because they are for my elevation. However I will try just about anything at this point. Sometimes it just plain rips when the throttle is hit but most times it bogs then goes right in that 6500-6750 range. Thanks for your input. I am just about ready to pull the efi and install carbs.

Last edited by tryanattak; 12-19-2017 at 02:06 PM.
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Old 12-25-2017, 03:54 PM
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Well today I pulled it apart again. We found the mag side spring broken again. It has probably 200 miles on it. This is the same one that broke last season. I was wrong about what spring we put in it then. We put the stock Purple spring in. It is lighter than the blue/white springs. I ran a wire through all the port holes again, they were all open. There are two ports in the valve mounting block and just one from the cylinder. I re- cleaned everything and reassembled with new springs yet again. It did not change much if at all. Maybe a bit better but hard to say as it still occurs. I do not notice any smoke coming out of the solenoid hose though at all. This has me wondering if the solenoid is bad. How do you check it? Any other ideas?
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Old 12-26-2017, 03:25 PM
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Upon further research, I guess the solenoid does not open until about 3500 rpm. That would explain why I did not see any exhaust coming out the solenoid hose at idle. I forgot to mention I also checked the port the solenoid hoses hook up to for some sort of obstruction. They had some carbon but not plugged and not too much either. So am I just out of luck and am going to have to deal with this bog or anybody have other suggestions? I will try drilling out the valve mounting block and the cylinder like one post suggest to do. I know for sure though there is no obstruction and everything is clean yet the problem is still there.
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Old 12-27-2017, 06:21 PM
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Old 12-27-2017, 07:08 PM
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Old 12-27-2017, 09:54 PM
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Old 12-27-2017, 10:32 PM
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Old 01-03-2018, 02:29 AM
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Old 01-03-2018, 11:05 PM
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Old 01-04-2018, 12:46 AM
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Old 01-04-2018, 01:27 AM
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