2007 M1000....No Spark

Sno Junkie · Mar 22, 2008

Went riding on Friday and after lunch I fired it up and rode about 20 yards and it popped... sputtered.... backfired. stopped to check it out..couldn't find anything...fired it back up and it idled for about 15 seconds and then died....No spark. Checked all wires..although I am not finding the chassis ground?? Swapped computers...still nothing. When you try and start it, the only thing to light up is the little wrench on the gauge.
Pulled the stator and I am unsure on how to check and what the OHM reading should be. If I check at the 2 yellow wires I get .3 . That is exactly what another M1000 in my group is gettting. Any ideas or suggestions? Thank you for the help!

ARICH · Mar 22, 2008

does it have any mods?

Sno Junkie · Mar 22, 2008

The only mod is a SLP can. I am really curious if the heat form the can is possibly what might have wasted the stator...if that is what it is. The interesting thing is the only other M1000 in our group to waste a stator is running a SLP pipe.

ARICH · Mar 22, 2008

it sounds alot like stator problems, but i doubt that the can did it.
I am not sure how the check the stator, but if it is out dont buy a new one,
you can send them in to a/c to rewind them for like 200 bucks.

I had the same exact problems about 2 weeks ago
the wrench would flicker when i pulled the rope and the headlight too.
but no spark, i have twins on my m7 and i did not have the spring that holds the pipes together connected (on accident) (so one pipe rested on the fuel rail,) and it grounded a wire out on my fuel rail. and the sled would bog badly and cut out and finally it just quit.

I dont know if the newer sleds have this problem but the m7s had a taillight wire that would rub through and cause the sled to do all kinds of funky sh!t too.
hopefully that helps a little

Sno Junkie · Mar 23, 2008

arcticat said:
it sounds alot like stator problems, but i doubt that the can did it.
I am not sure how the check the stator, but if it is out dont buy a new one,
you can send them in to a/c to rewind them for like 200 bucks.

I had the same exact problems about 2 weeks ago
the wrench would flicker when i pulled the rope and the headlight too.
but no spark, i have twins on my m7 and i did not have the spring that holds the pipes together connected (on accident) (so one pipe rested on the fuel rail,) and it grounded a wire out on my fuel rail. and the sled would bog badly and cut out and finally it just quit.

I dont know if the newer sleds have this problem but the m7s had a taillight wire that would rub through and cause the sled to do all kinds of funky sh!t too.
hopefully that helps a little

Thanks for the help. I have checked every wire...I think. I found the chassis ground and it is tight. I think it must either be the stator of the ignition p/u. I dont know how to test either of these????

89sandman · Mar 24, 2008

i'll bet your tors switch is your problem. throttle override switch, is grounded by the throttle when you push it so if your throttle cable freezes when you let off the throttle it kills the spark to your engine. pull apart the throttle side controls and unplug it, i'll almost gaurantee it'll fire first pull

!!! my buddies went out in the middle of nowhere, they used to idle fine when the switch went bad and would not affect how the sled ran until you gave it gas. with the new ones it can totally kill the sled. my buddies did the same exact thing, started once or twice for a few seconds and then would not start at all!

Sno Junkie · Mar 24, 2008

89sandman said:
i'll bet your tors switch is your problem. throttle override switch, is grounded by the throttle when you push it so if your throttle cable freezes when you let off the throttle it kills the spark to your engine. pull apart the throttle side controls and unplug it, i'll almost gaurantee it'll fire first pull!!! my buddies went out in the middle of nowhere, they used to idle fine when the switch went bad and would not affect how the sled ran until you gave it gas. with the new ones it can totally kill the sled. my buddies did the same exact thing, started once or twice for a few seconds and then would not start at all!

PLEASE let me know when you are in my area.......so I can buy you a beer or take you to some awesome spots to ride. You nailed it. I put the stator back in unplugged the TORS and it fired right up. Thank you!!!!

Mountain Doo-OLD · Mar 24, 2008

Ron-
Since you responded to that post- I have been having some strange issues also- mine doesn't die but sputters sometime at idle,like it wants to die-I thought it was cause I don't have my lefty throttle adjusted correctly.
I am going to pull apart the throttle block and see where to un plug the overide switch-
I have always done this to ALL my Polaris and the Polaris ATV- but never occured to me to do it to a cat,cause it is never advertised as a safety item that cat's do have.

Thanks for bringing this up.....:beer;:beer;:beer;:beer;

Sno Junkie · Mar 24, 2008

I got off the phone with a buddy of mine and he told me that his stator started working after it cooled back down? I don't think this is my case, becasue I got towed out for 10 miles and tried to start it all the way out and the next day....however here is the weird thing. I plugged the TORS back in and it still started?
I was out at an Arctic cat demo ride and the Arctic cat guy had told me to unplug every connection and coat it with dielectric grease. He said that they are finding quite a few sleds with corosion building up. When I pulled the stator I had to unplug the harness to remove it from the sled.
Anyhow...I'm not sure if I found the problem or I still have the problem. My next ride will be close to home and I will post up my results.

RACINSTATION · Mar 24, 2008

I'm guessing that you have an open or short circuit. I have seen about 5 sleds this winter with the exact same symptoms that you are describing. They all had bared off or grounded wires somewhere. I have also had to replace the complete wiring harness on a couple that were doing like yours, running good until hot and then crapping out. If it is still under warranty, get a new wiring harness.

89sandman · Mar 25, 2008

don't be fooled by that silly switch, should have posted this. my buddie also got home and took it apart to replace it. well he hooked it back up and it ran fine so he left it. next time we were out the same thing happens about 20 miles from the truck. i asked him if he had replaced the switch and he said when he plugged it back in it worked so he just left it. had to tear the throttle side controls again and unplug it. fired right back up. has been left unplugged since and no problems. darned little switch

Sno Junkie · Mar 25, 2008

Thank you again. I am really hoping that is the problem.

Treebender · Mar 25, 2008

Please help me out. Would you give me a little idea of where this switch is so I can lube it up so this don't happen to me. A little P/M don't hurt easy now rather than dealing with it in the deep.

Thanks

Sno Junkie · Mar 25, 2008

Treebender said:
Please help me out. Would you give me a little idea of where this switch is so I can lube it up so this don't happen to me. A little P/M don't hurt easy now rather than dealing with it in the deep.

Thanks

The switch Sandman is referring to is in the handlebars. Just remove the cover over the kill switch and you will see a little "push button" plastic switch right next to the throttle. I just unplugged mine.
In terms of dielectric grease......I put it on every electical connection.

Sno Junkie · Mar 26, 2008

Well...I bummed to say...but that wasn't the problem. Rode about 3 miles up the rode and it started to cut out. I was able to make it back to the truck. It seems to be the stator. It acts heat related.

Mountain Doo-OLD · Mar 26, 2008

Treebender said:
Please help me out. Would you give me a little idea of where this switch is so I can lube it up so this don't happen to me. A little P/M don't hurt easy now rather than dealing with it in the deep.

Thanks

I took mine apart yesterday- 4 screws on the back of the throttle housing take it apart you will see a white plastic square and a lower a "L" shaped cover bracket. Followthe wire it is red/black you have to remove a small screw behind a "L" shaped bracket. un plug it and put everthing back.. this is on my 07 M1000

bignick · Mar 26, 2008

07 m1ooo did same thing stator was problem.1100 miles.

powder pounder · Mar 27, 2008

Problems with 08 craps out at about 6000 rpm. Runs fine at low rpms. Seems to run fine till it warms up. ?? We will put it on jack stand and make sure the power valves are opening and test the stator. Any other ideas. Any codes show up with these problems you guys are having.

MtnDriller · Mar 27, 2008

I was having a similar problem a couple weeks ago on my 08 m8. Ran great when cold then died when hot. Sometimes to restart, usually not. Was towed out twice because of this. The first time the dealer couldn't find the problem. The second time they found water in one of the connectors that goes to the handlebar kill switch. Dried it out and used dieletric grease on it and so far no more issues. Hope this helps.

Sno Junkie · Mar 28, 2008

Replaced the stator and it runs perfect. Its hard with anything electrical....we may all see the same symptoms, but each have different problems.

2007 M1000....No Spark

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