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Track/drive system sounds like crap

W

wADVr

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Dec 3, 2017
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Anyone else's Axys sound like it has a wasted bearing? At slow speed it rumbles along like there are marbles in the chain case (mine is ‘18 w/3” track). My two other buddies one with an ‘18 2.6 other with ‘16 2.6 both have the same crap. All sleds have now approximately 250 miles on them.

Wish I would have taken a picture but while inspecting my buddies ‘18 the track was in the perfect spot to see the hyfax essentially stabbing the windows of the track, especially where there is no clip on the previous lug/window. I thought then that an anti stab kit is the answer but frustrating than this a factory flaw. His track didn’t seem to have any wear on the windows like many have reported. I then inspected my track today and while I didn’t have time to place it perfectly and take a picture to show exactly what I’m saying I have the same situation but have wear and need to clip the track before it gets any worse.

Have others experienced this rumble sound/vibration and have you noticed it change or go away with fully clipping the track and/or adding an anti stab kit that has wheels large enough to guide the track away from the leading edge of the hyfax. To me this seems to be the cause of both the rumble and the track wear. Every time the window will hit the end of the hyfax and grind away at it but the softer rubber looses. Maybe the fully clipped tracks are wearing the guide at the end of the hyfax now? Polaris lowered the skid but didn’t account for the angle. If they had tipped the rails a little more for the steeper angle or punched the skid back a little this wouldn’t be an issue.

My plan is to clip the track and add an Ice age anti stab kit with I think the 3” wheels to hopefully solve the track wear AND the rumble.

Any feedback? If this is old news (the coordination between the rumble/hyfax leading edge stabbing the track/track wear) please point me in the right direction. I have searched and obviously found info on clipping the track and anti stab kits. Other threads I found on clipping the track and track wear point more toward the load of the lugs on the hyfax and having no clip which I agree with also but see this interference equally as an issue.

If there are other causes for this rumble please let me know as well. Sorry for the long post, thanks for any info.
 

mountainhorse

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I'd like to see some photos...I must be misunderstanding your description.

Is your track set to factory tension as pointed out in your owners manual?


Unless you trim the rails... pretty darn hard to stab a rail on an stock polaris sled.





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W

wADVr

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I will get some pictures this evening. Yes track is adjusted properly but will recheck and doubt it will have any effect on this as it is more improper geometry between the skid rails and the drivers
 

ripnit

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Rode a brand new 18 this weekend and heard something rubbing/vibrating. If I recall correctly if I put a little load on it then backed out it would do it. (On the trail).Not sure if it was track or clutch.
 
W

wADVr

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See the attached pictures of what I am attempting to describe. Yes it it minor but have no other ideas of what the rumble could be.

Each time the hyfax hits a clip the track has to move away about 1/8” about double the thickness of the clip.

732C297E-6AF0-4A76-8969-1382BAA14768.jpg 8B7DC25F-7267-42BF-A778-CB634C585476.jpg 9CAD09D8-7B2A-4F28-BCDB-8A8D62C7B8F0.jpg
 
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diamonddave

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I'd like to see some photos...I must be misunderstanding your description.

Is your track set to factory tension as pointed out in your owners manual?


Unless you trim the rails... pretty darn hard to stab a rail on an stock polaris sled.



Surprised you didn't understand his description. Your comprehension is usually outstanding. I don't think he's worried about a conventional stabbing of the track with the Ice Age anti-stab. He's hoping the anti-stab won't allow the windows to stab the rail/hyfax and prematurely wear out his track.

I do have to wonder if a limiter adjustment would help this phenomenon??

I am not a fan of the Axys rail profile at all. I have seen exactly what the OP is seeing. I have also seen this at the rear of the rail as well. Rail/hyfax is too short at the rear.

I am currently helping a guy with this issue right now and have told him to call Ice Age for some custom rails that are more like the Pro Profile. We'll see.
 
S
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at low speed my 2016 assault has a strange rumble/vibration in blower powder or on the trail. it hade it prior to the avaid drivers fully clipped track and anti stab kit and still has it now. I have ben watching everything that I can think of from chain/case/bearings/track wear/track aliment and cant come up with a reason why. the only abnormal wear witch I am told inset so abnormal is the threads that have showed them self on the edge of the track! other than that I have ben boosted 3/4 of the sleds life and it has not served to be more of a problem than "the noise bothers me" I maintains my sled a lot some times every trip/ride but treat it BAD when im out riding it like I was riding a insured demo sled that was in your name! I commonly walk my sled on the back 16 inches of the track for 50-100 ft and all I can say is that noise has not proved to be any thing but that... just a noise that I don't like but cant explain. I know its not what you want to hear but I tell my self that its easy to figure out what's broke when its broke! until then ill keep an eye on everything weather its making a noise or not. if I can pin down whats making the noise I will definitely repost on hear for ya what I find. safe riding and keep those skies up :D wADVr
 

Bushwacker1

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My suggestion would be to remove the hyfax and use a sanding wheel or grinder to slightly taper the end of the hyfax to remove that extra bit of material that is hitting. Then reinstall hyfax.
 
W

wADVr

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Surprised you didn't understand his description. Your comprehension is usually outstanding. I don't think he's worried about a conventional stabbing of the track with the Ice Age anti-stab. He's hoping the anti-stab won't allow the windows to stab the rail/hyfax and prematurely wear out his track.

I do have to wonder if a limiter adjustment would help this phenomenon??

I am not a fan of the Axys rail profile at all. I have seen exactly what the OP is seeing. I have also seen this at the rear of the rail as well. Rail/hyfax is too short at the rear.

I am currently helping a guy with this issue right now and have told him to call Ice Age for some custom rails that are more like the Pro Profile. We'll see.

Yes you are correct. Thank you. Am interested to see what you find on the other sled you’re working on.
 

diamonddave

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Eric brings up a great point about proper (Polaris Proper) track tension.

Has anybody with this issue tried removing their shocks and cycling the track through it's progression and inspecting these areas?

I'm wondering if there's something going on when the suspension travels and the track tension.

Anybody remember some of the old M-10's? Used to have to run those tracks serious loose as they would go banjo tight when the suspension compressed due to geometry?

We didn't see this and the premature wear with the Pro-Ride tracks.
 

SRXSRULE

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This is another example of how important suspension adjustment is. Having your ski shocks and front track shock pre-load set too stiff creates this problem. It increases the attack angle and causes the track to rub the rail tips.

Set the sled on the ground, and check that clearance between the track and rail tips. Now adjust the ski shocks and front track shock so you only have 2 turns of pre-load on the springs and then re-check that clearance again.

This is just a starting point, and requires some fine tuning, but just shows you how things change with adjustments.
 
W

wADVr

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I haven’t removed the shocks or adjusted them to accommodate this problem but can say that with my roller dolly on the back of the skid the pressure or stabbing of the rail tips to the track increases. This makes sense as the skid will pivot off the front shock and put more pressure on the tips of the skid to the track, same as when the weight transfers back.. I haven’t notices the rumble/vibration when riding and weight transfers back. Only on decents or moving slowly.
 
C

Champ

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Valid points, but also keep in mind the pics are viewing the rear suspension / track in a static position. In reality when riding, the driveshaft throws the track down and away from the front of the suspension. Remember the driveshaft is pulling the track and it is basically pulling the track 'tighter' from the apex of the rear wheels to the apex of the drivers...everything else is along for the ride or buried in the snow. The effect is more apparent on a trail when the lugs can bite and less so in fluff, but the same principles are in action.

The looser the tension, the more the track bows before turning towards the rails. The looser the track and more compressed the suspension, the larger the bow in the track becomes. This creates a wave in the track and the wave will smack the tips causing the noise. The noises are also coming from the drivers and extrovert teeth as they have to break in with the windows as well.

Also note the extrovert is not in sync. with the drivers...it is clocked a few degrees to trail the drivers to 'catch the track if it starts to slip.

The wave is also working against the entire length of the rail until the track passes the apex of the rear idlers. All of this = inefficient track which = loss in overall performance. But waves still show-up...if you have ever passed a buddy while pinned on a long pull or lake and look over at the the other sled's track, even with perfect track tension, you will see the track bow down and up between the rear wheels and rear upper wheels. Faster ya go, the deeper to bow...Now look at the front...much harder to see, but the front of the track is bowing out before it turns back to the rails. Track too loose and it will bow forward which destroys your approach angle making it much harder to get up and moving forward in deep snow.

My experience with these tracks is it may take up to 500 miles for the track to break-in - maybe more, so stay on the track tension adjustment! Maintaining the tension per the specification is better than keeping it loose in all riding conditions except for off throttle coasting.
 
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