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2007 Dragon 700 Piston Seizure

S
Jan 26, 2010
39
1
8
So here it is. I need help. Cant figure out what happened / what went wrong. Ive got one piston that was clearly seized. The other one is pretty oily, but no scaring / broken metal shards.

The blown side has -

1. Rave valve spring broken.

2. Piston head was seized to the cylinder. I beat it out to get the cylinder off.

3. The top of the piston is all marred, and the underside of the head on that side shows the same sort of marring.

4. The blown piston has no oil / fuel sitting in the bottom of it, while the other one is pretty full of an oily mixture.

5. The top most piston ring on the seized cylinder is fused in there. There is not float / play in the ring. Its fully seized, while the second (more bottom) looks fairly normal.

6. The piston rod on the seized side has a lot more play in it than the non-seized side.

7. There are clearly metal shards that were jamming the piston to the cylinder. They came loose when I banged the piston down to get the cylinder off. There are still some of the shards in the bottom of the crank case (they appear to be copper??).

8. There is very very minimal scarring on the blown side cylinder. 2 small, finger nail detectable markings on it. But not blown up and totally destroyed like Ive seen in many other posts.

9. The ring (or gasket, or whatever it is) that sets the rod against the crank shaft has a tab like thing that is coming off of it. The other side (non-seized side) doesnt show any of this.


My issue - I thought it was going to be a disintegrated piston ring that blew, caused the piston to seize against the cylinder, and voiloi, my problem was detected. Seems now like it may be one of the rings that sets the rod on the crank.

Any ideas? What should I be looking for / what route should I pursue as I continue this tear down process??

Much appreciated.

-------

Sled has about 3000 miles on it. Always run VES. Blew at low altitude in AK (normally ride at altitude in Utah). Just had a new primary put in less than 500 miles before.

Any other info that would help???

IMG_3238.jpg IMG_3239.jpg IMG_3244.jpg IMG_3245.jpg
 
B
Nov 26, 2007
1,150
119
63
Salt Lake City
Failure

You lost the rod bearing. The tab that is sticking out is the seperator plate that holds the bearings evenly spaced in the rod. The Copper shards are part of that too. You will need to have that crank rebuilt. I suspect the failure is due to lack of oil. May be a oil injector fitting on that cylinder plugged or a line came loose. the lack of residual oil in the cylinder indicated that. Fragments of the bearing beat up the head and piston and pinned the top ring. Not sure why the exhaust spring broke. Usually when they go it will just run crappy. The valve would open too soon is all, will not affect oiling or fuel mixture. Lack of fuel will show up as damage to the dome of the piston due to heat. Yours doesn't look that way. Skirt skuffing indicates lack of lubrication.
 
K
Feb 8, 2005
585
183
43
55
Yakima, Wa
You lost the rod bearing. The tab that is sticking out is the seperator plate that holds the bearings evenly spaced in the rod. The Copper shards are part of that too. You will need to have that crank rebuilt. I suspect the failure is due to lack of oil. May be a oil injector fitting on that cylinder plugged or a line came loose. the lack of residual oil in the cylinder indicated that. Fragments of the bearing beat up the head and piston and pinned the top ring. Not sure why the exhaust spring broke. Usually when they go it will just run crappy. The valve would open too soon is all, will not affect oiling or fuel mixture. Lack of fuel will show up as damage to the dome of the piston due to heat. Yours doesn't look that way. Skirt skuffing indicates lack of lubrication.

Yep, rod bearing failure. See the discoloration of the rod around the bearing /crank journal. That's where it started and the resulting heat and debris caused the rest. Been there , done that.
 
S
Jan 26, 2010
39
1
8
Yep, rod bearing failure. See the discoloration of the rod around the bearing /crank journal. That's where it started and the resulting heat and debris caused the rest. Been there , done that.

What'd you have to do due to the failure? Rip it out, rebuild the crank, replace the rod?

Am I going to be better off rebuilding and replacing or trying my hands at a new used short block?

Thanks for all the quick and helpful replies. All around. Awesome (circumstantially, of course)!
 

rocket

Well-known member
Premium Member
Jul 20, 2001
319
67
28
Wisconsin
You can also see the remains of the thrust washers smearing out from around the rod. If you're "lucky", you might get away with only buying a rod kit and a couple bearings. If you aren't lucky, that half of the crank may be toast, as I've often seen failures like that damage the crank wheels in the process of grinding up the rod. In that event, you're looking at a new crank along with the cylinder and piston. Hopefully for you, there isn't anything else bad going on in the bottom end. As far as what may have caused the problem, lack of lubrication is a possible cause and should be investigated, but bearing failures can also occur as a result of off-season storage and the piston skirt scuffing can be the result of debris from the failing bearing getting into the cylinder.
 
X

xc6rider

Well-known member
Jan 12, 2009
1,484
484
83
Iowa
Yep, loss of lube, or just plain worn bearing. Great picture of it too. Nice distinct heat coloring.

I'd always rather rebuild and know exactly what you have, instead of wondering on a used engine.
 
K
Feb 8, 2005
585
183
43
55
Yakima, Wa
What'd you have to do due to the failure? Rip it out, rebuild the crank, replace the rod?

Am I going to be better off rebuilding and replacing or trying my hands at a new used short block?

Thanks for all the quick and helpful replies. All around. Awesome (circumstantially, of course)!

I would say at a minimum you will need a rod kit and crank rebuild. Piston, the head could be cleaned up and ran but the pitting causes a little loss in compression. Can't say about your cylinder without personally seeing it but slight marring can be line honed but if there are deep scratches in the wall it will have to be reworked or replaced.
 
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