2009 Polaris iq 800 - I have a chance to buy one - is it buyer beware?

suitcase · May 31, 2011

Not wanting to ofend anyone, or start a big war, LOL just my two Pennys.
Lot of units sold in that model, and there are very few that had those problems. Just because you read on here of the 20 or so does not mean there junk. One has problems, and one never has issues, Why. if it was a bad motor design they would all fail. And after thousands of people put thousands of miles on that model, I would have to say some of use need to blame the bad luck, or the bad wrenching on something other than the real problem. Im not saying they did not need to fix some things, but what mode of transportation does not have issues at one end or the other?

I'm just saying that they are not lemons, and if you can find a good one, at the right price, that they are good sleds. I would buy one in a minute.
Then put Jacks big bore in it and never have another worry!!

milehighassassin · May 31, 2011

You are certainly are going to get mixed reviews. I would say yes or no depending on what you are paying, what is included, etc.

If you can get a deal on one, I would pick it up and replace the top end with one of the following:
-PMS Wiseco kit ($800 or so)
-Wiseco dropin ($250 or so)

The chasis is great, the motor has been hit and miss. Some are great for people, others destroy them rather quickly.

2XM3 · Jun 1, 2011

After taking apart quite a few of the iq 800 motors,and having owned a race shop for 20+ years.....They are poorly designed JUNK !! Just one horror after another. And if you get it to stay togeather, you then have the delight of the pi$$ poor electronics and horrible lack of power. Do yourself a huge favor and buy another sled, the 700's work quite well. Or if you must have it, buy the carls 860 kit for it, they work great but cost is around 5000.00 by the time your done with pipes,clutching ect...and being that the 800's sell for maybe 4000.00 you now have 9 grand in a sled you cant sell and Polaris will not stand behind at all even if all the motor issues are there crappy engineering problems.

I dont think I would take one new in the crate for free....just to many issues. How many trips do you like ruined?? I like sleds that I can trust. Oh and 1000 miles is a LOT on a 800 iq motor btw, just about ready to crack a piston skirt off....:face-icon-small-win

iride4fun · Jun 2, 2011

Thanks all for your comments and your help. All much food for thought and aid in purchasing.
Checked the compression today 105 each cylinder. What do you think?

theshadowrider · Jun 2, 2011

iride4fun said:
Thanks all for your comments and your help. All much food for thought and aid in purchasing.
Checked the compression today 105 each cylinder. What do you think?

Compression doesn't tell you a whole lot. Yes it will tell you if the pistons are super scuffed, but it will read 105 both sides the time right before the pistons skirts break off. It won't tell you that your piston to cylinder clearance is .009" and its suppose to be .003" to .005". I, and others are really recommending a new non-oem top end, to get rid of the piston slap that causes the skirts to break off, and get a fuel controller.

INDEEP · Jun 2, 2011

And if you haven't read the threads, when the piston skirt breaks they go through the case and then take out the cylinder skirt. You'll be looking at 2k to fix it not to mention 3900 miles is fairly high millage on a Polaris crank. IMO buy a 6 or 700 or a M8. There's 5 of us riding D8's on the Spokane BCR site. Three 09's, one 08 and one 10. One 09 Turbo and the 2010 made it through this season. The other three broke piston skirts and totaled the motor.

milehighassassin · Jun 2, 2011

I honestly think if you buy the sled and change out the pistons to non-oem pistons that have the proper clearance you will have a solid sled. Spend $300 more after you buy it and you will be happy.

iride4fun · Jun 2, 2011

I appreciate all of your comments- I have passed (at this point) on the deal. I told the owner, if he brings the compression up to 125 pounds which (I believe) it should be, I would purchase the sled. There is a reason why the compression is only 105. I checked the guage when I got back for accuracy- it seemed to be accurate but may be 5 lbs light.
I did talk with my dealer about all of the issues brought up on this forum. It is interesting to hear a dealers perspective on all of this.
If I purchase the sled and put after market pistons and head in- does that correct all issues? Or, would just pistons do it?
Thanks all for your input. I appreciate all comments and lessons on both sides of the fence.

theshadowrider · Jun 2, 2011

iride4fun said:
I appreciate all of your comments- I have passed (at this point) on the deal. I told the owner, if he brings the compression up to 125 pounds which (I believe) it should be, I would purchase the sled. There is a reason why the compression is only 105. I checked the guage when I got back for accuracy- it seemed to be accurate but may be 5 lbs light.
I did talk with my dealer about all of the issues brought up on this forum. It is interesting to hear a dealers perspective on all of this.
If I purchase the sled and put after market pistons and head in- does that correct all issues? Or, would just pistons do it?
Thanks all for your input. I appreciate all comments and lessons on both sides of the fence.

FYI 105 is exactly where it suppose to be. You won't see a stock dragon with 125 with the updated head. Mine was 95 right after the dealer did the update. The updated head that polaris put on is a low compression head.

augerin · Jun 2, 2011

I have a 2010 engine on the shelf that looks to be in perfect condition. That being said it is getting the "fix" kit and an '08 head before it goes back in the sled. As stated already great chasis, ****ty engine.

milehighassassin · Jun 2, 2011

I had 130 in Denver (5280 feet +/-) with a high compression head. The elevation will change the compression test reading.

Higher the elevation the lower the reading.

iride4fun · Jun 4, 2011

My dealer says "the compression should be 125lbs - 120 is okay but on the low end. Wouldn't advise anything lower than 120." He told me that at 105 after the rebuild kit was installed- something is internally wrong and to avoid this machine.
Which means if they have put low compression heads on these as an update- that is suppose to be 105- then the dealers aren't checking compression after the rebuild.
Two days ago (before he knew the compression number)- my dealer (also a distant friend) said that I should be comfortable purchasing this sled.
What is an acceptable range in compression on these engines?
Thanks for your comments and input.
Mark

xc6rider · Jun 4, 2011

My '10 was 112 lbs in both holes brand new (at 600ft, basically sea level). Meant to check it again but never did before I traded it in. I would of liked to see it come up to atleast 125, but I know I was dreaming of that to happen.

The bad part is, you can put any piston you choose in, either head, and you're still screwed cause it's the cylinders that are crap.

Some options do seem to help prolong the engine, but it's still a ticking bomb. It seems that guys with the first head, and even boost have better luck, and I'm wondering if the increased pressures help the piston from rocking as much??? Also the added height of the PMS piston kit is what makes it seem the most effective option.

rocket · Jun 4, 2011

I didn't check prior to the update or immediately after, but I checked after the first season (post-update) and had 110-115psi in both cylinders at sea level. I checked again after this season and had almost identical readings. Guage readings do vary, so I don't think 105psi is necessarily out of reasonable range. FWIW, I'm sitting at 7K+ miles on the motor, so they don't all die an early death....

milehighassassin · Jun 4, 2011

I don't think the cylinders are bad. Like most I believe the piston clearance is bad on some motors. I pulled my pistons (half way there) to replace with wiseco pistons. The pistons look great, no marks at all.

I have another thread that I'll update measurements.

Get proper piston to wall clearance and the motor will be fine.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

iride4fun · Jun 4, 2011

So, if 105 is okay- why is my dealer telling me to avoid it based on compression alone?
I am a mechanically inclined person. I have rebuilt engines before. It is the off season, if it is just pistons- I can handle that. If it is going to puke on me just because it is what it is- I am not interested.
If I put not OEM pistons in it- is it problem solved?
Thanks guys.
Mark

milehighassassin · Jun 4, 2011

Could your dealer be trying to sell you one of their sleds?

Pistons that have proper clearance will solve the problem. Many people have had great luck and no problems with their motors. If I took a guess on why, I would say they got lucky and have hood piston to wall clearance, within spec.

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xc6rider · Jun 4, 2011

rocket said:
I didn't check prior to the update or immediately after, but I checked after the first season (post-update) and had 110-115psi in both cylinders at sea level. I checked again after this season and had almost identical readings. Guage readings do vary, so I don't think 105psi is necessarily out of reasonable range. FWIW, I'm sitting at 7K+ miles on the motor, so they don't all die an early death....

RMK or another chassis?

rocket · Jun 4, 2011

'08 IQ 800 short track - I am a flatlander after all.... Back on the 105psi compression and why a dealer may be discouraging you - I can't offer anything but speculation there. Is there any chance the dealer has personal knowledge of the owner or the sled, but is trying to avoid directly saying anything negative? I will also mention that if there was a motor failure in the sled's past, it may be more likely to have another - at least that is what it seems from the comments on various forums.

diamonddave · Jun 4, 2011

Questions for iride4fun:

1) What is the elevation that the compression test is being performed at? Increase in elevation causes a decrease in compression.

2) Was the compression checked both a cold and warm engine and if so, what was the difference in readings? We need readings on both a cold engine and warm engine.

Polaris made a decrease in compression with 2010 update kit. Prior to this, piston scuffing seemed to be occuring. Polaris felt lowering the compression, a new map with different fueling/timing and going to a 2 ring piston would solve the problems some were having. Some were having detonation issues (mainly light blinking from the deto sensor) from the aggressive timing in the 08's and 09's and some scuffed pistons from a lean mid range. Very few needed race gas splash and most needed fuel controllers.

The thing to consider here is it is impossible to know if this sled had 125 lbs when the update was done or 105 lbs. Yes 125 lbs at seal level would be nice but 105 doesn't necessarily mean there is anything wrong if hot and cold readings are within a couple lbs. A hot and cold compression test would tell us a little more (piston or ring) if there was any difference in readings.

If anybody has run one of these 800 CFI's with an EGT gauge and A/F meter's on a non-turbo sled, I think one might have a better understanding of why Polaris may have run these motors on the loose side. The results on my sled have been amazing in my eyes. One also has to question the success many have had running turbo's on this sled.

I would be prepared to throw some new pistons in the thing if you buy it. I personally think the price is worth it for the performance of these sleds. I come from a camp of zero 800 issues.

As for the questions about the stock pistons from Polaris. Yes they can be used succesfully if the cylinder to piston clearance is proper. Have the cylinders renic'd to match the pistons and you will be fine.

Kurt at Fastrax along with other dealers are doing this with great results. He also recommends as I have in the past to add premix 1 oz for every gallon of gas. A PCV fuel controller should be installed as well.

2009 Polaris iq 800 - I have a chance to buy one - is it buyer beware?

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