i was thinking about removing my tunnel and getting it powdercoated over the summer, how hard is it to remove the tunnel?
tunnel removal
- Thread starter ullose272
- Start date
A
Not bad to remove. The driveshaft will have to be pulled out as well as the skid, diamond drive etc. Drill out the rivets on the footwells, remove large rivets holding the steering stop on. There is one rivnut that will have to be drilled out and reinstall a new one when putting the tunnel back on. The right side cooler will also have to be drilled out and removed. Might as well pull all the coolers.
im going to be removing skid/track anyways so it shouldnt be bad
T
It will be more time consuming and more drilling then you expect.
A
X2 what twostroke said. Lots of rivets, and they are not by any means easy to drill. Youd almost be better off just powder coating the bulkhead and tunnel.
I heard the front heat exchanger is welded to the tunnel on the 2010's. Seems like a lot of work.
S
I never replaced a tunnel but I would think removing the engine ect would be less time than just removing the tunnel. Not to mention hoping everything goes back together the same way it was when you started. It is possible there is a specific way to or sequence the factory uses to installs the tunnels. I would find out the procedure if that is possible. The other issue is rivet gun, I would suspect he has a pneumatic rivet gun to install all rivets correctly.
A
They have all been welded to the bulkhead for quite a while... Has nothing to do with taking the tunnel off.
It's not hard. I can tell you 2 things as I have done a few of these now. #1. The job itself is not complicated or complex, like the others have said, you have to pull a few drive train parts. It's when you have to start drilling out rivets does the job get consuming. It never fails, you think you have every one out and somehow you missed the 1 hiding in the corner! The order of the rivets should be done as you would think they would go. Don't worry about the sequence so much, make sure all your holes are matched up and everything is straight. #2. You must have a pneumatic rivet gun. Not only for the sake of your hand and wrist, but I honestly believe you get a much tighter, stronger fit when using a pneumatic vs. conventional style rivet gun.
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