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SILBER TURBO 9000-12,000 FT SETTINGS

S
Aug 30, 2008
69
20
8
Waconia,MN and Denver,CO
What are guys running for numbers on your box's, boost, gas mix, weights, elevation...
I'm at 9000-11500 ft running 4-4-4-4.5-2-6. not as crisp as i want in low end, going to lower green to prob 3 and yellow to 3 to see if that helps..
numbers im using work well though.
running 6-7 pounds - 74.5 grams - 60/40 114 race/92.
runs really good just have slight load up coming off the throttle and low rpm
so 3 green and 3 yellow should help..
WHATS WORKING FOR YOU ?????
 

tdorval

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 4, 2007
1,201
276
83
Red Lodge, MT
What year kit do you have? I'm not sure if it is our elevation, but I think most of the silber kits at this elevation have that low end issue. I had mine pretty much gone with my 12 kit, but I haven't gotten there on the 13 kit yet.
 

BlowinSmoke

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 28, 2007
403
76
28
Frenchtown, Montana
I second that on the race gas issue. I ride in Montana between 5000-9000 feet and have a very responsive bottom end with my Silber kit. I suggest running no more then 3 gallons of race gas at that elevation. Pump gas burns much faster so the more race gas you put in throttle response gets less.

Just my 2 cents
 
V
Jan 26, 2010
213
46
28
Arvada CO
numbers

My current numbers are.
2011 pro rmk with a 2012 silber turbo kit
8500-12000 ft
11PSI
My weight is 250lbs
78G weights
100LL fuel
4 green
4 yellow
3.5 red
4 green blue
2.5 yellow blue
4.5 red blue
i do have to make some adjustments depending on air temperature
 
V
Jan 26, 2010
213
46
28
Arvada CO
this is a cheat sheet i have laminated and carry on my sled.

this is the sheet that Boston Racing has on his web site. i just removed some stuff i didnt need and added a few things for quick reference. if i find some numbers that work better at different air temperatures and elevations i jot them down on my paper for my next ride.

GREEN MODE: Default setting Light 4 (bigger number lower AF ratio)14-15 AFR
The green mode on the control box controls all of your cruising fuel adjustment. The lower the light the less fuel it will add. The higher the light the more fuel it will add. A safe AFR for this light setting is 14-15. Keep in mind that the AFR will just around a lot in this mode due to light loading of the track, and throttle positioning.
Yellow Mode: Default setting Light 4
The yellow mode is a De Accelerator pump. This mode is activated by quick throttle movements. This keeps the sled from bogging on throttle stabs. Lowering the light will pull more fuel, while raising the light will add more fuel during light activation.
RED Mode: Default setting Light 4 (bigger number lower AF)12.5 AFR
The Red mode is your WOT fuel adjustment. The box will display Red light while it’s activated. Lower the light will add less fuel, raising the light will add more fuel. The mode is best to fine tune your AFR at WOT. Shoot for 12.5 on the AFR gauge.
Green Blue Mode: Default setting Light 4.5 (bigger number lower AF)12.5 AFR
The Green blue mode is your Amount of fuel per PSI of boost. While riding your sled this mode is active any time the Blue LED is displaying on light number 8. This mode is best to dial in your WOT AFR. Than fine tune it with your red mode. For example say Green blue mode adds 10% fuel per light setting. And the red mode adds 1% of fuel per light setting. So during at WOT pull if your AFR was 13, you would want to raise the light to get a richer condition, which will lower your AFR reading. Target AFR is 12.5while Green blue mode is active.
YellowBlue Mode: Default setting light 2 (lower light more sensitive)
The yellow blue mode works in conjunction with the solid yellow mode. This mode determines how when to turn on the solid yellow mode. Its controls the rate of throttle movement to turn on the yellow lights. Lowering the light will make it more sensitive to throttle movement. Raising the light will make it less sensitive to throttle movements.. While riding the sled you want the adjust this mode so you can stab the throttle from a complete dead stop without the sled bogging. However you don’t want to make it to sensitive that you activate it to easily causing it to turn on during cruising and fluctuating the throttle slightly. Keep in mind this mode works directly with the Sold Yellow mode. Yellow mode controls the amount of fuel, and yellow blue controls the rate that it activates. Light setting of 2 is normal for elevations above 6000ft. Light setting 4 is normal for elevations of 1500-4500ft.
Red Blue Mode: Default setting light 4.5 (lower number kicks on red sooner)
Red Blue mode is the RPM activation mode for the solid red light. Lowering this light will turn the Red mode on at a lower RPM, Raising the light will turn the Red mode on at a higher RPM. This mode disables yellow mode and yellow blue mode. It’s important to not lower this light setting to much or you may experience a bog during on and off throttle activity. This is because when the red mode turns on it shuts your fuel pull mode off. Adjust this mode so you can go from WOT to nothing back to WOT without any bogging or activating the DET light. The default setting is 4.5.
My current numbers are.
8500-12000 ft
11PSI
My weight is 250lbs
78G weights
100LL fuel
4 green
4 yellow
3.5 red
4 green blue
2.5 yellow blue
4.5 red blue
 
Last edited:
J
Aug 2, 2008
42
4
8
39
8000'
2012 with 2012 turbo
155" track
200lb rider
10lbs boost
94 octane no ethanol
G 2.5
Y 2
R 4.5
G/B 3.5
Y/B 3.5
R/B 4.5

I do have a bit of a transition bog from 5000-6000rpm roughly. I bogs right at the end of green and at the start of Green/Blue than clears up. A buddy runs a Cat with the same box, he had the same issue. He ended up eliminated the Red setting all together. I may try going down on the red .5 at a time and see if it works for me also.
 
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