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Sled won't go

C

chunkysoup

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Sep 23, 2009
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Waterloo, WI
You can start it without the secondary on. Make sure you have the primary on. I wouldnt go to crazy with rpms tho. Maybe just past engagement.
 

retiredpop

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Was the square key for the helix in the secondary in place so you could pretension the spring by 1/3 of a turn? The reason I ask is because I had one push out when I installed the helix and had basically the problems you are having.
I think that might be it. When I took it off the secondary, the round hollow bearing(?) and key just fell into the belly of the sled when I was removing it. BUT I did have to twist it and push down to get the helix to pop out to take the secondary apart. Does that mean it was pre wound or would that not matter?

As chunkysoup says I am referring to the key for the helix which is part #10 on the Driven Clutch parts diagram.
I believe the key and the hollow piece (spacer) that fell out on you are parts #12 and #4 on the Drive Train parts diagram.

You will have a bit of tension on the spring even if it is not pretensioned by 1/3 turn but not nearly enough.

Keep at it. I think you are getting close with this problem.
 
J

jaysonfreerider

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Jul 18, 2008
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Troy, MT
see if your impulse line is on. the hose that goes from your fuel pump to your crank case. should connect right onder your carbs. My 700 did the same thing and that is what it ended up being.
 
J

jaysonfreerider

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Jul 18, 2008
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Another thing to look at is if you dont have the rack carbs, check to see if your throttle cable is broke down inside one of your carbs.
 
C

chunkysoup

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His sled runs now tho. He cant get it to move. Seems it should not have anything to do with the carbs or fuel pump. Something in the drive train is not right.
 
C
Jan 25, 2011
284
16
18
south lake tahoe
Secondary back on and I fired her up. With me standing on it, front skis on dollies, I ws moving in my driveway. I'll load her up and get to some snow and see what's up. Hopefully it was something in the secondary! Thanks, I'll get back with an update.
 

Jeff C

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If the secondary is on correct, then I would go down the drive-line and start with the jackshaft bearing. Then move over to the chaincase.......



Actually, just put the sled up on a track stand with the belt off, and see if you can spin the track by hand. Should be able to.

If you can, then my bets are

1. Secondary
2. Carb throttle cable broken (Look at the slides and make sure they pull up when you pull the throttle)
 

retiredpop

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C
Jan 25, 2011
284
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18
south lake tahoe
OK, same problem. At least now I know what to look for. Engages at 4000 rpm's, but then I'm topping out at like 4500. ???? That would explain why I'm not moving I assume. Both cylinders are running, is this a carb issue? Cables open at same time, choke seems to be adjusted correctly, but I do idle pretty high(3k) unless I play with the choke. Then it drops down, almost dies and I released the choke and rpm's go back up. It drops to around 2000 after warmed up. So I don't think it's the clutches or drive shaft, it's something with low rpm's? Think I'm going to go throw something now.
 

winter brew

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Is the belt getting sucked down into the secondary? Open the hood and pull the cover off, just watch to see what the belt is doing.
If that appears to be OK, then do a compression check....eliminate the easy things first.
 
C
Jan 25, 2011
284
16
18
south lake tahoe
1371G needles
38 pilots
182 jets
ACCS is removed, carbs vented into airbox
I'm at 6-9k

It doesn't appear to me that the belt is sucking down into the secondary. Should it be really noticeable that it is going down in there?
The primary is engaging and staying closed.
I put the spring the #2 position in the secondary and spun it before installing.

I'm giving it WOT and just not getting the kick and topping out at 4500 rpm's. Can you download video onto here? If so I'll take one with my phone and show you guys!
 

retiredpop

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That is way rich on mains with ACCS removed. You should be around 140 or less for your elevation and temperatures this time of year. You will have to rejet before doing anything else.

See attached jetting chart in owners manual for a 2000 SKS which did not have ACCS.
 
Last edited:

Scott

Scott Stiegler
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Nov 1, 1998
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W Mont
1371G needles
38 pilots
182 jets
ACCS is removed, carbs vented into airbox
I'm at 6-9k

It doesn't appear to me that the belt is sucking down into the secondary. Should it be really noticeable that it is going down in there?
The primary is engaging and staying closed.
I put the spring the #2 position in the secondary and spun it before installing.

I'm giving it WOT and just not getting the kick and topping out at 4500 rpm's. Can you download video onto here? If so I'll take one with my phone and show you guys!


Yeah post a video. Put it on photobucket or youtube.
 
C
Jan 25, 2011
284
16
18
south lake tahoe
That is way rich on mains with ACCS removed. You should be around 140 or less for your elevation and temperatures this time of year. You will have to rejet before doing anything else.

Well that sucks. I ordered 3 sizes smaller than stock(185's I thought) a while ago. I thought that was what I was supposed to do, read it on one of these posts. Live and learn. I'll look at the chart, but when it's winter, call it 30 degrees, how much difference is there in the jetting? Would the jetting explain a low end bog? I'll contact the guy I got these jets from and see if he has 140's. Thanks again, you're the man.
 
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