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Sled won't go

C
Jan 25, 2011
284
16
18
south lake tahoe
After rebuilding top end and numerous hours spent on carbs, my sled runs worse than it did before. It starts right up, idles a little high and when I give it gas, I don't move. If I lift it up, skid spins. HELP! I'm losing my mind. Thanks for any suggestions.
 
C
Jan 25, 2011
284
16
18
south lake tahoe
I'm leaning towards only one cylinder running. I took belt off and put her on stand and secondary turns easy along with the track. Today I started her and took off one spark plug wire and she kept running but idled slower. Then took the other off(mag side) and she died. So I screwed spark plug wire back on and she fired up and did the test again and she kept running no matter what. Gave her gas (WOT) and went maybe 2 inches. At that point I grabbed my snowboard and did some runs. With my buddy pushing her we got her on trailer. I'll mess with spark plugs again tomorrow, maybe it's the CDI or a bad spark plug? The plugs are brand new along with spark plug wire.
I'll also check again and make sure the primary is engaging and staying engaged. If not I'll try to get the $50 back for the clutch I just bought.
 

retiredpop

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Jul 3, 2001
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Calgary
It sounds like a possible secondary clutch issue. Have you had the secondary clutch apart at all? I read in one of your other posts that you changed the primary but no mention of the secondary.
 
C
Jan 25, 2011
284
16
18
south lake tahoe
No, at this point that's the only thing I haven't touched. I'll see if I can pull it today. I'm getting close to just selling it for cheap, calling what I have put into it tuition and saving for a newer style chassis. I don't mind wrenching, but I'd like to be able to see some results.
 
C
Jan 25, 2011
284
16
18
south lake tahoe
So I unscrewed the bolt holding secondary on and started to slide it off. Next thing I know a round hollow tube(helix?) and a square key are in the bottom of my sled. Now when I pull on secondary it slides easy until I hit the wall of my nosepan. I need another couple inches minimum, any ideas except for cutting a hole. Am I supposed to pull the whole shaft off somehow?
 

retiredpop

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Jul 3, 2001
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It should come off by tilting and pulling on it. There is no need to pull the shaft. The square key fits in a keyway in the shaft and a corresponding one in the clutch which stops the clutch from spinning on the shaft. You should also have a bunch of washers under the bolt head that you took out. The round tube that fell out sits on the bolt that you took out on the thread side of the washers. There is probably some washers behind the clutch on the shaft too. Count them as they will have to go back on to maintain the proper offset of the primary and secondary clutches. Go to www.polarisindustries.com to get a blown up parts diagram of the secondary if you haven't already done so. It will give you an idea of how the secondary goes together.
 
C
Jan 25, 2011
284
16
18
south lake tahoe
Thanks! I got it off, just had to unscrew one bolt kind of sort of holding nosepan together at footrests. I took some pics of the helix and buttons, the helix has a worn spot on it and I don't know what the buttons should look like. Since I took off the primary that was on there (a 2005 polaris clutch) and put a 2000 primary on do I need to realign everything? If so, any tips? Thanks for that diagram, really helps!
 

winter brew

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Nov 26, 2007
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One possibility....Make sure the secondary buttons are good and the secondary spring/helix is preloaded 1/3 rotation. If you twist the sheaves there should be quite a bit of resistance and they should return. A common error is not applying 1/3 preload when installing the helix and it will act as you describe.
 
C

chunkysoup

Well-known member
Sep 23, 2009
1,458
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Waterloo, WI
I think we still need some more info. The engine revs up now right? Is the primary engaging the belt? Sounds like the primary is stuck open. when trying to move it is the belt rotating with the clutches and your not moving or is the belt not even moving? just need some more info.
 
C
Jan 25, 2011
284
16
18
south lake tahoe
Yes it revs and it appeared to me that the primary was engaging but the belt didn't spin. I'm going to put her back together now and start troubleshooting again. Unless it was just a dirty secondary, which I doubt.
 
C

chunkysoup

Well-known member
Sep 23, 2009
1,458
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Waterloo, WI
If you rev it high enough and the belt doesnt move it should burn the belt if the primary is working correctly. (not that you want to burn your belt but the same thing happens if your track is stuck) If you can roll the secondary over by hand there is no reason the primary shouldnt be able to roll it unless it isnt working right. Definitely sounds like a stuck primary to me. just curious... what rpms r u turning when trying to move it?
 
C
Jan 25, 2011
284
16
18
south lake tahoe
I:ll try to get it put back together tomorrow, ran out of time today. What is the unit that sits on the bulkhead behind the secondary? Seems like it is attached to the driveshaft and has an adjutable cable on it.
 

retiredpop

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Jul 3, 2001
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Some basic questions for you:

What rpm does the primary engage at? It should be around 4500 depending on weights and spring. You will definitely see the primary move over to grab the belt when it engages.

What height is the belt sitting in the secondary clutch? It should be about 1/8" above the sheaves.

Was the square key for the helix in the secondary in place so you could pretension the spring by 1/3 of a turn? The reason I ask is because I had one push out when I installed the helix and had basically the problems you are having.

Do you have the proper drive belt installed?
 
C
Jan 25, 2011
284
16
18
south lake tahoe
What rpm does the primary engage at? It should be around 4500 depending on weights and spring. You will definitely see the primary move over to grab the belt when it engages.
Right around 4-4500 k. I see the primary move over

What height is the belt sitting in the secondary clutch? It should be about 1/8" above the sheaves.
That's where I had it.

Was the square key for the helix in the secondary in place so you could pretension the spring by 1/3 of a turn? The reason I ask is because I had one push out when I installed the helix and had basically the problems you are having.
I think that might be it. When I took it off the secondary, the round hollow bearing(?) and key just fell into the belly of the sled when I was removing it. BUT I did have to twist it and push down to get the helix to pop out to take the secondary apart. Does that mean it was pre wound or would that not matter?

Do you have the proper drive belt installed?
Polaris 3211065

I'm going to start putting back together now and see what happens. I'll be able to answer the rpm questions and if the primary is engaging definitely after I get her back together.
Thanks guys, I'm going to get this thing running!!
 
C

chunkysoup

Well-known member
Sep 23, 2009
1,458
151
63
36
Waterloo, WI
Was the square key for the helix in the secondary in place so you could pretension the spring by 1/3 of a turn? The reason I ask is because I had one push out when I installed the helix and had basically the problems you are having.
I think that might be it. When I took it off the secondary, the round hollow bearing(?) and key just fell into the belly of the sled when I was removing it. BUT I did have to twist it and push down to get the helix to pop out to take the secondary apart. Does that mean it was pre wound or would that not matter?

The key that fell into your bellypan would have been the key to hold the secondary in place on the jackshaft. The key retiredpop is talking about would be the one that holds the helix in place inside the secondary.
 
C
Jan 25, 2011
284
16
18
south lake tahoe
Ok, then the spring key was still in place. I'm waiting for neighbor to get home to help me put this back together. I don't see how I can hold it, put the pretension on spring and then get it all together without another set of hands.
 
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