• Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Steering is REALLY heavy?

Recently purchased a 2006 rmk 700 159" with the adjustable steering. I ride with the handle bars in the far up position. For some reason my steering just sucks, it's really heavy and it's a lot harder to turn right for some reason. Just wondering if anyone else is having this problem or if anyone has any suggestions. I was thinking of replacing the skis for powder pros but don't know if that will help?:face-icon-small-fro
 

guidoxpress

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Jul 13, 2008
5,105
1,506
113
Wasilla, AK from MT
get better spindles (HOLZ), if you cannot afford them, assure your camber/caster and toe in/out is set correctly...

and better skis for sure..if you ride powder AND trails..the gripper skis are the best for the buck..
 

rmk2112

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 21, 2009
1,475
830
113
Kennewick, WA
www.northstar-plumbing.com
I have the same sled and complained about the exact same thing. Sled felt really heavy on the front end and steering was non existant
Here's my .02 cents worth and what I did.

1. I moved the handle bars back towards me to the #3 from the gas tank. I tried to ride it with them forward too and it felt just like you're describing.
2. I put 6" risers on it. (that's what fits my height, I'm 5'11")

Those 2 things helped alot, but steering still sucked. So...........

3. I removed the sway bar.
4. Replaced the crappy stock shocks with Fox Zero Pro's (mine had 3K miles on them and were beat, I actually broke one of them which prompted the Zero pro's)
5. Check your limiter straps. Pick up the back of the sled til the scissor hits the stops, does the front of the track lift off the ground a little or feel loose? If so, let them out from the middle hole to the bottom one

I did a few mods to my rear suspension as well. Curt at FasTrax gave me some ideas and pointers.
I took it out today and it rides like a completely different sled. Its a little darty on the trails from the lack of swaybar, but off trail it carves and lays over beautifully now.

Guidoxpress is spot on in his comments too, I've heard the exact same thing from many others. I was going to do skis first but was advised to try the things I listed first. Like I said, its like a different sled now and I love it.
Next for me is Grippers and then Holz or newer Dragon spindles.

PM me if you want to chat about the sled. I love this 700 and I've gotten awesome advice on these forums about it.

Skis Poll: http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/poll.php?do=showresults&pollid=243
 
Last edited:

94fordguy

Well-known member
Staff member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
14,576
5,244
113
38
Yakima, Wa.
1. I moved the handle bars back towards me to the #3 from the gas tank. I tried to ride it with them forward too and it felt just like you're describing.

5. Check your limiter straps. Pick up the back of the sled til the scissor hits the stops, does the front of the track lift off the ground a little or feel loose? If so, let them out from the middle hole to the bottom one

Easiest couple things you can do right there!:beer;

It is common to get too far forward on this chassis and that will make it feel heavier, step back a bit and move the bars back and that will help in itself. I prefer my steering set in position 5 with a 2" riser, it fits perfectly for my taste. If you have it set all the way forward, you will find yourself having to lean over the bars and that will take away all your leverage on the sled.

Get yourself a set of '08 or newer spindles and you will be a lot happier, much better geometry, and the sled will actually turn tighter than your stock spindles will currently allow. Gripper skis are also a huge plus in this area too, better flotation on the front will equal lighter turning and better control.

Good luck:beer;:beer;
 
M
Dec 5, 2007
238
61
28
Chehalis, WA
Definitley, the 225 # fr track spring
new polaris pr holz spindles
Powder Pros
Pull the rider select back, you will find the plane that the bars pivot on becomes more angled or less vertical and due to the rider position takes nless force to turn the bars.
 

mountainhorse

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Premium Member
Dec 12, 2005
18,606
11,814
113
West Coast
www.laketahoeconcours.com
One thing that I helped someone out with a while back...

Heavy steering and he could not figure it out....

Turns out that the previous owner had "upgraded" the ski shocks to shocks that were too long and not made for the chassis.

Have the shocks been changed out to something different. The stock base-model shocks were RydeFX steel non rebuildable shocks... the Snowcheck shocks were rebuildable RydeFX aluminum shocks.

Also, cranking the preload up on the front shocks will give you too much steering effort.

The front ride height needs to be checked.

I agree that the Cobe/Holz/Z-Broz or stock 2008 and Up RMK spindles will give you less steering effort as will PP skis, 225lb front-track-shock spring, checking/setting Camber and toe-out, as well as riding in the 3-4 position on the handlebars.
 
M

MacDawg productions

Well-known member
Sep 5, 2008
532
106
43
Van Isle, British Columbia
Quick cheap fix is the 225lb front track shock spring. Made a significant difference on my 9hunny. I highly recommend it.
http://www.carlscycle.com/eshopprod_cat_2438-19675_product_257947.Heavy-Duty_Front_Track_Shock_S.htm

How much adjustment should you have left on the shock after tightening up the spring preload? I have a 225lb on mine and I only have about an inch of adjustment left on the shock threads for tightening. The spring seems short.Is this about right, or is my spring pooched out? My steering is also feeling a little sluggish.
 
D

Danbot

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2007
1,696
967
113
Alberta, Canada
How much adjustment should you have left on the shock after tightening up the spring preload? I have a 225lb on mine and I only have about an inch of adjustment left on the shock threads for tightening. The spring seems short.Is this about right, or is my spring pooched out? My steering is also feeling a little sluggish.

Ok well my skid may adjust different than yours due to the fact that I have the .375 torsion springs as well, and because mine started life as a Switchback it has Fox Zero Pros all around.

That aside, I am just a little tighter than half way through the adjustment on the 225lb spring. Any more than that and my sled plows through corners lol:beer;:rolleyes:

*edit* its probably relevant to the discussion that I weigh about 220 dressed to ride and I always have 10 liters of fuel on the tunnel
 
Last edited:
M

MacDawg productions

Well-known member
Sep 5, 2008
532
106
43
Van Isle, British Columbia
Ok well my skid may adjust different than yours due to the fact that I have the .375 torsion springs as well, and because mine started life as a Switchback it has Fox Zero Pros all around.

That aside, I am just a little tighter than half way through the adjustment on the 225lb spring. Any more than that and my sled plows through corners lol:beer;:rolleyes:

*edit* its probably relevant to the discussion that I weigh about 220 dressed to ride and I always have 10 liters of fuel on the tunnel

So what your saying dan, is that my spring might be worked? I weigh about the same.
 
R
Nov 20, 2009
179
35
28
Ok, with all that being said I have just the opposite, I think I need to adjust my strap up front because unless I hit the brake on the trails it won't turn. I have dual 4 inch carbides on the stock skis and set bars at three. It also has 192 studs in track, I ride trails in Michigan. I went out today and bought a set of 8 inch carbides to put in the inside and leave the outside with 4 inchers. I'm pretty sure suspen. need altered, just never did it before.
I know I need some weight transfer to the front for cornering.
On the flip side of things, go like hell in the straights!:D
 
Premium Features