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MY NEW ADVENTURE IN BUILDING MY 2005 900 RMK !

T
Feb 15, 2018
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Here's the slime I cleaned out of the motor last night.

The jugs were bare - didn't have any in em... but all of the journals in the bottom end seemed to have this schmeg in em.
I'm going to pull apart the water pump tonight and have a look. We'll see what kind of nightmare awaits me in there! haha

I think I will be splitting the case this weekend and pressure washing out all the coolant channels just to make absolutely positive that the coolant is unrestricted and there are no contaminants. I don't want to have this thing pop on me right after I spent so much time rebuilding it!

Thank you guys for all your help and support! I really appreciate it!

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Teth-Air

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Wow that glycol sure broke down. Would be interesting to check the pH on it. Usually when it breaks down it forms glycolic acids and the pH drops. Break down can be due to overheating or poor/wrong inhibitor and pH buffer. Does it have a burnt smell?
 

mountainhorse

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Nice... Keep us in the loop with the build !!

How many miles/hours on the sled?

You should have the factory manual for this...unfortunately, only in print form... no PDF's.

What clutching do you have (primary spring, primary weights?)

What helix is in the secondary clutch, what clutch do you have (TSS-98 or TSS-04??)
What spring is in there?

What belt are you running?



.
 
T
Feb 15, 2018
28
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Here are some general pics of the machine.
I've got the motor out now.
I did a compression test and got high 90s in each.
I pulled the head and jugs and found what I expected. They're done and ready for a new pair.
R&P on the way.
 
T
Feb 15, 2018
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First batch of pics
 

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T
Feb 15, 2018
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next batch
 

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T
Feb 15, 2018
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last one for now.
Planning on swapping out that rear bumper sometime in the future once it's all back running again.
 

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T
Feb 15, 2018
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I picked up a bunch of degreaser today. The chemicals I sell are more designed for a kitchen, not a shop lol My degreaser from work didn't do a whole hell of a lot. It was more the pressure washer doing the work.

It should be a good weekend. I plan to degrease the chassis better and get it all cleaned up and ready for fresh plastic. The steering johnny joint right at the bottom of the steering post is a little loose. I'm going to see if I can find one of those somewhere. No point in skipping it when it's so easy to replace right now. The rest of the steering seems solid, but I'll give it a closer look when I'm cleaning things up.

I also want to open up the chaincase to see what sweet crisis awaits me in there. I pulled the dipstick this morning just for grins and there was ... some metal on the magnet. Nothing too drastic and the oil was black... so either it's settled again from when I drove it up from down back a week or so ago, or it's relatively clean of water in there. Fingers crossed.

There was a little crack on the outside of the bolt hole on the very top bolt for the chaincase cover. It didn't look bad, but maybe I can find a cheap cover somewhere...

Belt upgrade?? I don't know much about that, but I've heard of it. Not sure it would really be necessary for me. I like the idea of shedding weight, like the suitcase exhaust, major pounds... but when it's small stuff like ounces... meh.

The track is in decent shape. I had gave it a good look over while i had the sled on it's side when removing the old busted fenders. There's 2 or 3 lugs with tears down them, but only about half way, there's 2 side lugs missing but the rest still look decent - they've still got the frilly edges to the paddle, so it's not very heavily worn I don't think.

I didn't think to check the hifax, but I will while cleaning it.
I'll also give the suspension in the back a good greasing - it seems good and snug from what I can see of it, so I'm going to leave well enough alone for the time being. The wheels all seem to be in good shape and the bearings on them seem serviceable.

We will see what tomorrow brings! I'll be sure to post up some pics.
 

mountainhorse

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I think you are going to have a blast in this adventure of putting the sled together.

I like the gripper skis on there (but take them off and clean/lube the pivots/bolts)

This is a 2005 model...Right??

The spindles are from a 2005... and those are not the best in terms of geometry.

The Gold head was only in 2005 for the 50 year anniversary model, snowcheck.

2 injectors or 4 injectors?? (looks like the 2 injector setup from 2005, 2006 had 4 injectors)

Is the sticker still on the tunnel for make/year??

Measure the center to center distance from the jackshaft and driveshaft
This is the dead giveaway...The 2005 IQ-RMK's ran a much longer 11.35" center-to-center distance, 2006 900 RMK's have a 8.373 Center to Center of the jack/driveshafts... you can even get the answer to this since they are a full 3" different.

Check closely where the lower steering post bearing bolts to the bulkhead... for any cracks in that area... also for the plastic bearing itself... those get worn quite a bit.

You'll need a new fuel filter for sure.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/382543812063

Clean the exhaust valves...Carefully check the bellows for any cracks etc....
Clean out the lines from the exhaust valves... and use new gaskets when putting it back together.

With the chain and gears off... spin the jackshaft and carefully check the bearings
Don't risk it.... replace if needed.
https://www.allballsracing.com/ymmsearch/index/searchfromhome/

Check your reed valves carefully as well for any chipping.

Recommend replacing the pull cord ... and leave out the bottom bolt from the housing so that you can pull the housing without pulling the engine if needed in future.

Look in the tech section for info on torn motor mounts.... those can really look ok at first... but are shot on closer inspection.

Pull the clutch, pull the cover off it, the spring and the weights... check pivot bushings in weights replace if needed... clean everything... Put back together.

The only belt you should be using is the Polaris 321115 belt on this sled.... making sure that deflection is set to factory specs (carefully)...
Do you have the Polaris 3211080 belt on there now??

Pull the secondary helix off... and check the rollers and spring inside.

I highly recommend replacing both primary and secondary springs.

Lots more as the adventure continues.


.
 
Last edited:
T
Feb 15, 2018
28
2
3
I think you are going to have a blast in this adventure of putting the sled together.

I like the gripper skis on there (but take them off and clean/lube the pivots/bolts)

This is a 2005 model...Right??

The spindles are from a 2005... and those are not the best in terms of geometry.

The Gold head was only in 2005 for the 50 year anniversary model, snowcheck.

2 injectors or 4 injectors?? (looks like the 2 injector setup from 2005, 2006 had 4 injectors)

Is the sticker still on the tunnel for make/year??

Measure the center to center distance from the jackshaft and driveshaft
This is the dead giveaway...The 2005 IQ-RMK's ran a much longer 11.35" center-to-center distance, 2006 900 RMK's have a 8.373 Center to Center of the jack/driveshafts... you can even get the answer to this since they are a full 3" different.

Check closely where the lower steering post bearing bolts to the bulkhead... for any cracks in that area... also for the plastic bearing itself... those get worn quite a bit.

You'll need a new fuel filter for sure.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/382543812063

Clean the exhaust valves...Carefully check the bellows for any cracks etc....
Clean out the lines from the exhaust valves... and use new gaskets when putting it back together.

With the chain and gears off... spin the jackshaft and carefully check the bearings
Don't risk it.... replace if needed.
https://www.allballsracing.com/ymmsearch/index/searchfromhome/

Check your reed valves carefully as well for any chipping.

Recommend replacing the pull cord ... and leave out the bottom bolt from the housing so that you can pull the housing without pulling the engine if needed in future.

Look in the tech section for info on torn motor mounts.... those can really look ok at first... but are shot on closer inspection.

Pull the clutch, pull the cover off it, the spring and the weights... check pivot bushings in weights replace if needed... clean everything... Put back together.

The only belt you should be using is the Polaris 321115 belt on this sled.... making sure that deflection is set to factory specs (carefully)...
Do you have the Polaris 3211080 belt on there now??

Pull the secondary helix off... and check the rollers and spring inside.

I highly recommend replacing both primary and secondary springs.

Lots more as the adventure continues.

.

Everything you're telling me says this is a Snowchecked 05 model.

The measurement between the secondary and driver shaft is about 11 inches. 2 injectors. Gold head.

The belt that I took off it was a Dayco HPX5020. I did a quick search - looks like it crosses over to an acceptable replacement for my machine.

The steering looks reasonable, excepting for a bit of a wobble in the rod end that connects directly to the steering shaft. I ordered a replacement one from Kimpex. It was only like 10 bucks, thank god! The factory part was like 50!

I will definitely take your advice on the pull cord replacement and the bottom bolt. This cord looks original. I'd rather replace stuff now than when it's all back together!

I have a manual impact driver and a Snap On T27 coming so I don't frig up the clutch when I go to disassemble it. I'll be sure to put the torch on it to melt any lock tite as well, before I go banging away.

I have a new fuel filter on the way as well.
 
T
Feb 15, 2018
28
2
3
I opened up one of the exhaust bellows. It's orange. I read that the stock 05 bellows were black so I believe this means they were upgraded to the newer style that is less prone to tearing.
 
T
Feb 15, 2018
28
2
3
The exhaust valves were full of tar. I spent about 3 hours on Sunday pulling them apart and cleaning them. I ended up using a tin full of gasoline, everything was so gunked up. Wish I had some diesel on hand, but alas - no fire or explosion so I've got that going for me.

Top end kit should be here before the end of the week so I can start putting stuff back on the block.

I pulled the two plugs out of the bottom and used some MPPL with a straw to 'clean' the lower part of the case. There was some dirty oil and misc pieces of 'crud' that must have fallen down when I was cleaning the schmeg out of the cooling journals.

Anyway, looks good down there from what I can see. Everything feels snug, without play. I think I'm gonna leave well enough alone. I'll definitely mix the fuel a little oil heavy for the first half-tank just to make sure.

The clutch pulling bolt came today, but it seems like it's too long. It barely engages the threads. You guys think I can just trim it down a little bit (length) enough so it engages the threads on the clutch more and just crank it in? It won't frig with the threads in the crank where the clutch bolt threads in, will it?

I guess I could order the right one, if this isn't it (doesn't seem like it is...) but I'd rather make this one work, if machining down the end a bit is all that is needed. It would make more sense that maybe the tool is too thick and is sitting on the threads in the crank, instead of against the back of the hole in the crank? I don't know. Never pulled a clutch before.

I compressed the spring and poked a bit at the parts, weights, ect. Everything seemed reasonable... I probably won't have this sled much past half RPM a majority of the time - There's not a ton of mountains in my area to climb, but there's lots of wide open marshes.

Manual impact driver came today too. Just waiting on the snap-on T27 bit. I'm not gonna even try using one of my crap Pittsburg harbor freight torx sockets!

At this point it's just hurry up and wait for parts!
:pray:
 

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T
Feb 15, 2018
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... I probably won't have this sled much past half RPM a majority of the time - There's not a ton of mountains in my area to climb, but there's lots of wide open marsh

... Whatever.

I don't know what I was thinking when I wrote that... After doing heat cycles, I'm going to have wet dreams over the sound of this thing when I grab a handful.

Time to opt in for Aflac... :D
 

BeartoothBaron

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Nov 2, 2017
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Roberts, MT
The exhaust valves were full of tar. I spent about 3 hours on Sunday pulling them apart and cleaning them. I ended up using a tin full of gasoline, everything was so gunked up. Wish I had some diesel on hand, but alas - no fire or explosion so I've got that going for me.

Top end kit should be here before the end of the week so I can start putting stuff back on the block.

I pulled the two plugs out of the bottom and used some MPPL with a straw to 'clean' the lower part of the case. There was some dirty oil and misc pieces of 'crud' that must have fallen down when I was cleaning the schmeg out of the cooling journals.

Anyway, looks good down there from what I can see. Everything feels snug, without play. I think I'm gonna leave well enough alone. I'll definitely mix the fuel a little oil heavy for the first half-tank just to make sure.

The clutch pulling bolt came today, but it seems like it's too long. It barely engages the threads. You guys think I can just trim it down a little bit (length) enough so it engages the threads on the clutch more and just crank it in? It won't frig with the threads in the crank where the clutch bolt threads in, will it?

I guess I could order the right one, if this isn't it (doesn't seem like it is...) but I'd rather make this one work, if machining down the end a bit is all that is needed. It would make more sense that maybe the tool is too thick and is sitting on the threads in the crank, instead of against the back of the hole in the crank? I don't know. Never pulled a clutch before.

I compressed the spring and poked a bit at the parts, weights, ect. Everything seemed reasonable... I probably won't have this sled much past half RPM a majority of the time - There's not a ton of mountains in my area to climb, but there's lots of wide open marshes.

Manual impact driver came today too. Just waiting on the snap-on T27 bit. I'm not gonna even try using one of my crap Pittsburg harbor freight torx sockets!

At this point it's just hurry up and wait for parts!
:pray:

Oh boy... Regarding that clutch puller, I made the same mistake a few years back. Basically anything EDGE chassis and newer (except 550s) uses the same puller, and it's not that one. That's the old Fuji style. Hopefully you're still on or have figured that one out, but don't try to use that, unless you cut it off just below the threads and used the "water trick."
 
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