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BYPASS THERMOSTAT UPGRADE (PREVIOUSLY $28 upgrade)

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RMK900Tractor

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i just done this to my friends 2013 swtbck .

I plumbed in the BRP T mixing valve just like the picture and write up .

Due to limited access to fittings , I left the front cooler intact and plumbed in as is .

The system works very good , just as advertised in the opening statements of this thread .

breaking trail below 20 mph temps at 105

loose packed trail below 30 mph temps at 118

loose packed trail above 30 mph temps at 107

ambiant temps above or just at freezing ,heavy wet clammy snow

Took a brp renegade out on back to back run and it ran 25 degrees higher than the polaris , temps are extrolated due to the BRP use of bars vice numerical value

very good mod highly recommended

I also used pre mix besides the engine oil pump

I also just did my 2014 Pro RMK 800 and consistent with your temperature numbers. Overall decrease of 10 - 12 degrees consistently. I also noticed the cooling flow through the reservoir is much more turbulent and the system seemed to purge out any trapped air quickly.

The one thing I did differently, was not able to get the washer for the stock thermostat delete so I just gutted my stock thermostat and used that to retain the stock seal.
 
From an e-tec, stops the heat soak. Holds 109-111F
Sorry, I can't get the picture to flip.


picture.php
I dont know why I am having such a difficult time with this.... I have a 13' Switchback Assault 800 with the front cooler. Can i just leave the front cooler system alone and plumb this like this..? I just want to achieve cooler running temps all around. Are there benefits to running this differently if so could someone please let me know. I am totally confused with the whole warm up thing, sorry for askin but I am just kinda frustrated now..lol...
 

rab

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if you leave the front cooler plumbed in as is then you are running two system in parallel one that uses the BRP t-stat and the other one runs continuously , it will IMO but it will take longer to warm up and your not getting the total benefit of the BRP T-stat . You have to remove and use a restricting washer or gut your polaris t-stat .did you see the drawings Iron horse posted on page one .TRS is the source on this mod try to PM him
 

The Bob

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Mar 1, 2008
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I dont know why I am having such a difficult time with this.... I have a 13' Switchback Assault 800 with the front cooler. Can i just leave the front cooler system alone and plumb this like this..? I just want to achieve cooler running temps all around. Are there benefits to running this differently if so could someone please let me know. I am totally confused with the whole warm up thing, sorry for askin but I am just kinda frustrated now..lol...

I've got a front cooler on my Pro-RMK and don't believe I did a whole lot different. The front cooler on these really doesn't do much and believe it acts like two different circuits even with Polaris's thermostat. I rarely see above 120 even on wind blown icy areas.

Ideally, you would run the front cooler in series with the rears but Polaris didn't run it that way. And used smaller hose fittings to make it much harder than just swapping hoses around. I've decided to hold onto my Pro-Ride one more year (picked up a 18 AXYS for a trail), I've got a itch to redo somethings on the tunnel. If I decide to I'm going to mod the front cooler so I can run it in a series. Something that has been mentioned by others smarter than I on these Forums. Sorry haven't been around enough lately to provide credit, haha (forget names).

I've installed these on multiple different Polaris's from race sleds, to trail sleds. Usually you can just sit back and think it through. Some you have to plug other outlets (Poo race 800 convesions, one for example). Again usually I was pointed a good direction by someone else, haha. So can't say I figured it all out.
 
T
Mar 13, 2019
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I dont know why I am having such a difficult time with this.... I have a 13' Switchback Assault 800 with the front cooler. Can i just leave the front cooler system alone and plumb this like this..? I just want to achieve cooler running temps all around. Are there benefits to running this differently if so could someone please let me know. I am totally confused with the whole warm up thing, sorry for askin but I am just kinda frustrated now..lol...

I did this over the summer on my 2012 Switchback Pro R with the front heat exchanger. I have no idea if I did it correctly but I can get you a few pictures in the next couple of days if you think it will help.
 

polaris bob

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TTT

Did anyone ever come up with a kit they're selling that allow the person to buy everything needed from one location, from one person??
 
T
Mar 13, 2019
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Got out today and my temps are quite warm as compared to others. In that 135-145 range. Air is out of the system and coolant is not foaming. I gutted my OEM t-stat. It is warm today (hovering around freezing) but snow condition are good.

I'm wondering if my temp sensor is bad. I saw 100 degree temps before I had a chance to get geared up... I didn't really think much about it but when I started the sled it showed 88 which would be quite high for the ambient temps??

Any thoughts?

does anyone have the procedure for checking the sensor?
 
T
Feb 10, 2019
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Hey TRS
Thank you for putting forth these efforts. Its great information that has helped many.... it gets everyone talking and finding good solutions to problems like this.
 
C
Mar 16, 2017
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bumping this up again. just finished doing mine and did some test runs. For me it's more piece of mind. i run forged pistons and to have the sled run cooler is most important to me. The temperature fluctuation with the original thermo was immense. i'd be 125 all the way up to 165 with the sled pulling timing at the higher temps. And these temps were in good to pretty good trail conditions. I was sick and tired of constantly worrying about temps. The stock polaris thermo circulates 11 litres per minute whereas the doo stat circulates 26 litres per minute. that almost 2 1/2 times more circulation. I was skeptical at first, but this has really impressed me on the consistency of the temps with the doo stat mod. this is how i plumbed it for a 2012 800 switchback with front cooler
 

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TRS

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There is a parts list in here somewhere.
The only thing you need to make is the thermo replacement washer.

BRP
1- 509000499 Thermo housing with internal thermostat
1- 509000372 3/4 x 1 barbed tee
Napa
4- power grip 42934
2- power grip 42925
1- 5/8 bypass cap 660-1696 1-8205 hose
1-7378 hose
Polaris
1- CT clamp 7080533
Washer for thermostat replacement 34mm OD, 27mm ID, 1mm thick
 
Last edited:
C
Oct 17, 2019
3
0
1
bumping this up again. just finished doing mine and did some test runs. For me it's more piece of mind. i run forged pistons and to have the sled run cooler is most important to me. The temperature fluctuation with the original thermo was immense. i'd be 125 all the way up to 165 with the sled pulling timing at the higher temps. And these temps were in good to pretty good trail conditions. I was sick and tired of constantly worrying about temps. The stock polaris thermo circulates 11 litres per minute whereas the doo stat circulates 26 litres per minute. that almost 2 1/2 times more circulation. I was skeptical at first, but this has really impressed me on the consistency of the temps with the doo stat mod. this is how i plumbed it for a 2012 800 switchback with front cooler
Looking to do this upgrade on my 2015 SBA. Looking at your picture I can see the Powergrip part number 32934 but the parts list on this thread lists 42934. Any chance you could confirm the power grip part numbers that you used?
 
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