2007 M-1000 clutch alignment

Ahhhh, got ya. ****ing stupid secondary eh. :face-icon-small-ton

secondary will always get ya! Might be a little backyard engineering but it's working. Did I say the word "engineering"?

I machined 3 cluctches last night there are 3 spots that need machined to do this first the large diameter cup needs turned down so as not to hit your dd then the steel spline shaft in the center the end of it needs done as well the part that contacts the shim. then you also need to turn the spline inside of the shaft to allow the clutch to move over to get to the 1.507we took .125 thou. off our clutches to get this to move over enough to get the 1.507 1 .030 shim behind the secondary on the shaft Personally i never had much of a issue but a friend did will know on his on the first ride if it helped so wel'l see.

I only machined the cup .125 and it clears nice and makes the 1.507 alignment with no shims. I will have to watch for the helix screws hitting the case.

You must have had a few spacers behind your secondary. i have a lite drive on my 08 and my buddy had the stock dd on his 08 they only had a very thin shim behind them and was set to 1.655so for us to get the sec to move over the spline had to be turned out a bit. there must be a variety of secondarys out there with different spline lengths or something. I would have thought all 07-09 would have been the same and then changed in 10 HMMM What year was yours?

30 min job tops and the shims are cheap. Made all the diff on mine. remember to shim the mag side and loosen the mount on the tube in front of the throttle bodies.

YAAAA!!!!

Im very familiar with shimming, I own a Firecat chain case and nothing is straight on it.
I used washers, Ive seen those style of shims posted before. No worries of them viberating out ?

How is the offset measured? From what two surfaces? We use an alignment tool, is this a better method? I am trying to solve belt issues of bro-in-law's m1000. I feel the cat belts are crap. I ride a boosted pro and just came from a 975 turbo and I have NEVER ruined a 115 poo belt. He is running cutler secondary kit and the springs selection for the drive and driven clutches is not great. He is twin piped and it has always upshifted fast and a little slow on the back shift. I f you have never been on a m1000 with twins you may be saying BS, but it is day and night on how hard it pulls. We changed the primary spring from 135-305 to a 140-330. The secondary spring uses a old style cat roller spring and we are using a 15 percent stiffer than the green sno pro spring. We drilled the cover so we can wind it up a additional hole it's all we can do. 78 grams and a 38 helix. The polaris belt is about 3/4" longer than the cat belt and a bit wider. We reshimmed the primary and machined the the sheaves on the secondary to get narrower to take up the difference in length. The belt does ride quite high in the driven to take up the length difference. But as soon as the sled is moving the upshift should have the full belt contact. We will be trying this pres weekend and I will post back the belt life results.

30 min job tops and the shims are cheap. Made all the diff on mine. remember to shim the mag side and loosen the mount on the tube in front of the throttle bodies.

Click to expand...

So you only shim the PTO side over? What about the MAG side mounts? Do they just flex with it? I like this approach very much. How much are the shims?

No shim all four points. 3 pto mounts on the pto plate and the one mag side. The last pic is the mag side mount. I also run the stm extra mag mount similar to the linderman and have 1200 k on my belt still in great shape but I'm a flatland rider but I have done alot of back to back drags with little clutch heat.