Clutch alignment w/o bar

Thunder101

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• Feb 8, 2012

• #1

So my Dealer has no 1.5 alignment bar in stock I want to get this thing together and tested before I go on my trip I have a brand-new secondary clutch I had .125 machined off the cup on the back to allow for clearance to move my secondary towards the diamond drive anyone know how I can measure my offset with out the bar. WHY DEALERS DON'T CARRY CHEEP THINGS AS STOCK. GRRR

 

F_ast

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Ontario

• Feb 8, 2012

• #2

Your biggest issue outside of poor alignment will be contact of the secondary on the DD case or chassis. I would at lease put the secondary on the sled without the spring in it and run it through its full travel to make sure there are no contact areas. I have seen this contact happen before.

 

Thunder101

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• Feb 8, 2012

• #3

The original secondary had left a rub mark on th DD and I read on HCS and here to machine off .125 so I had that done to my new sheave I bought. I just don't have any mean of aligning the clutches. I guess I can try the free float and see. I prefur measurements. Why can't you take a straight edge cross the front of the stationary sheave of the driven and measure from it to the back of the drive fixed sheave. ??

 

Hardass

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Troy Montana

• Feb 8, 2012

• #4

So you took 1/8 inch off the cup on the back and the spline for the shaft is that correct? So how do you check alignment with out the tool a straight edge?

 

S

sledbilly

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Apr 9, 2007

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• Feb 8, 2012

• #5

you could try this

1. open secondary and lay a straight edge in bottom then collapse secondary.

2. let secondary roll around so straight edge will lay in bottom of primary (also check parallelism)

3. measure from inside straight edge to bottom of primary inner sheave

4. lay a straight edge on outside of secondary

5. measure from inside edge of secondary straight edge to inside edge of straight edge in #1 above.

add two measurements together and that will give you your offset.

if you have an offset bar that is incorrect you can still use that...just add or subtract shims to account for difference needed, flat feeler gauges work well for this.

 

Thunder101

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• Feb 8, 2012

• #6

Hardass said:

So you took 1/8 inch off the cup on the back and the spline for the shaft is that correct? So how do you check alignment with out the tool a straight edge?

Click to expand...

with no shims on the DD the cup does not touch now. I bought the sled used,with the original driven it had a.030 and.060 shim on the DD shaft and it also had a rub mark on the DD were at some time the cup rubbed the DD. So before I inst my new sec ,BC the original was wooped, I had .125 cut off the cup. I put it on the DD shaft to check clearence with no washers and the cup clears by lots. I read sometine about the movable sheave and the footwell, I will check that out.
The point of this thread is HOW can I check alinment w/o the bar. MY CAT DEALER does not have one in stock.

 

1

1080paul

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Nov 26, 2007

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Wisconsin

• Feb 8, 2012

• #7

Everyone says the alignment bar is wrong so I remove all my shims on the DD then put the driven on with the bolt loose so it will float. I hoist up the sled then run it about half throttle maybe full for a second then I measure from the motor mounting plate to the edge of the outer sheave. I do this three times then shim it to the measurement I get most. Seems to work OK.

 

B

Beckwith24

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Feb 12, 2010

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• Feb 8, 2012

• #8

I prefer the free float.

Make sure your track tension is correct and aligned (maybe even a little loose). Then take out all the secondary shims. Spin the track (off the ground). Measure from the stationary sheave to the bulkhead with a precise ruler. Then push the secondary in flush and measure again. The difference will be the amount of shim spacing you will need to put in.

Then do the deflection. Spin the track and then let go of throttle, it should not come to a complete stop, it should just barely creep along (you want the belt as tight as it can be without the sled driving away from you when you get off of it). Once you have this pretty close, do another free float.

Do this and your sled will run like a champ and your belts will last forever.

 

Thunder101

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• Feb 9, 2012

• #9

Found a bud with an 1.507 alignment bar and it showed ok. I have not broke down this primary to get the belt to sheave tight so the bar fit but I have .060 clearence between the bar and the fixed dr sheave. I tried the free float and that told me it wants no shims. as a reminder I cut the cup down and beveled the inside edge so it clears but are the screws for the helix going to hit the DD? Thx.

I do use the search LOTS.

 

winter brew

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LakeTapps, Wa.

• Feb 9, 2012

• #10

You can get correct offset with the eyeball. With belt installed it should just kiss the inner stationary sheave with all belt to sheave clearance to the outer sheave. Simple,very accurate and works with any combination of primary and secondary.