no overheating here!

I was in the same spot with my SB Assault with a 2" track. Didn't run the scratchers and never saw over 126 and I was not that kind to the little lever on the right. I was surprised how good it actually can be with 8" of snow. Sad state of affairs snow wise out here this year though. It will come, or at least it better.

I don't think you have enough miles in different conditions to declare that anything you did helped, other than to make you feel better and stimulate the economy. My stock pro flap, Stock coolant keeps mine at 125 as well with the scratchers down. Mine was on a packed trail without the 8 inches of fresh you rode in. It was also a 40* day. I have 260 miles on mine so far this season and mine has a turbo heating up the coolant as well!

Scratchers are the key, without them I was seeing 160-170.

wait until theres no fluff and your riding setup for mile after mile. the little things help but if you ride a lot of hardpack a real cooler is gonna be the only answer to "cure" the problem. especially if your ride in spots where you're constantley going 5-10mph and your not able to open it up. not saying its impossible to do but we spend quite a bit of time in the spring with the panels open and stacking tons of hardpack on the tunnels... i did put engine ice in my buddies at the begining of the season and am waiting until it gets set-up to see how much it helps. the rides we've done together so far have had enough fluff that they both ran the same temps.

Not to bag on any products (Engine Ice or or propylene glycol) but most of these miracle products are like the magnetic fuel line device. Adding a flap, cooler or running with the scratchers down is the real solution. That is why they sell them with scratchers stock, they have taken every extra bit of weight off but added these, they know the heat is an issue. If you think these other product or additives will work then it will be difficult to dissuade you but in reality the gains are minimal at best.
I posted on a similar thread in DOO talk (I run a super wide and haul freight with it) about this same topic (Evans waterless coolant), I did a little research, here is what I found.

I am not a fluid specialist, but have taught General Chem at the high school and college level for 15 years so I have a fair grasp on the physical characteristics of liquids. As I typed this it becomes a bit of a lecture on Chemical properties but I wanted help you understand my thinking and make a informed decision. I include the links I used if you wish to see what I based my points on.

At first I saw no reason it would not work, I would guess it was a large molecule fluid, oil, Ammonia or the like with with a higher Boiling Point and greater ability to remove heat. The question is how much better is it? The answer is most likely it is not. I am also skeptical because some of the science stated in the "How it works" is very weak IMO and appears to be selling points bolstered by big words that seem to make perfectly good sense at the first glance.

My thinking was that the creation of hot spots are normal, If you have ever burned a hole in a piston you have seen it first hand. To imply these hot spots create a detonation or a cook off is a stretch. The piston will get hot, the cylinders will get hot and so will the head. A larger radiator or different thermostat can help this. So a fluid that removes heat better than water is needed. The flow of the coolant is mixing like a stream, there are hot and cooler spots within the fluid. The important point is that the specific heat of water is 4.184 and aluminum .897, that means that water can carry 4.66 times more heat per unit of mass than aluminum. I left the units out of it on purpose.

I looked for some high heat capacity fluids and found that water was the highest I found.
http://www.engineeri...uids-d_151.html

I looked for all substances, Hydrogen gas is great but a bit explosive under heat and pressure.
http://en.wikipedia....heat_capacities

I was wondering what is this amazing stuff!
I looked at the toxicology to see what this stuff really was:
Evans coolants contain proprietary blends of glycols, including ethylene glycol. Which is in your antifreeze & has a lower heat capacity than water and you enhance the boiling/ freezing point by mixing it with water. They also state "The new coolant, EVANS Non-Aqueous Propylene Glycol (NPG)"... This is used to Deice aircraft and RV antifreeze. I included a MSDS sheet for RV antifreeze.

http://www.shamrockc...SPrestRVAf.html

http://www.engineeri...ycol-d_363.html

So now I am thinking this stuff is what I already have. As for the micro bubbles and hot spots it all sounds good if you buy their product.

IMO this stuff was presented with some amazing data, better fuel economy, safe for the environment, less reactive and better for your car. All to get you to spend $40.00+/- per gallon for a ethalene/ propylene glycol mix that will not work as well as a $12 jug of Prestone and water at 60/40 from your tap."

This weekend I found out by accident a small thing that made a big difference. I was having issues on the trail to our riding area, temps were hitting 150-170. I found that the scratchers were only an inch or so from the track. I bent them so they were further away and the temps went back down below 140. I think that the spray wasn't able to get above the track when they were super close.

tbeaton said:

what are your trails like out there? your snow typically has less water content than ours, do the trails pack down alot? there were times last year that we couldn't break thru 3-4 of snow off the trail as it became so hard. tends to be typical for the northeast.

Click to expand...

It was like concrete, but not ice.

PDP long flap made a real difference in very marginal snow conditions for a 2011 pro over last year. Speed at 20, +-5. Better, and managable, so far. If you have to run poor snow.

Lots of the heat issues are people refusing to run scratchers for reasons that continue to boggle my mind.

I road all weekend on hard trails scratched down sled ran127 all day